The forestry industries have a guide at
http://www.skogsindustrierna.org/Li...ent.asp?archive=3&directory=749&document=9001
There is a table over dimensions of timber depending on span, snow zone, timber quality, and CC.
How are you planning to build the roof? What roof pitch? Are you thinking of laying raw boards/roof plywood with roofing felt, or oil-hardened board as a sub-roof, or are you skipping the sub-roof entirely and laying battens + metal on top of the rafters? On armats' website, it says that the battens should be at least 45x70 if using board as a sub-roof (which doesn't carry anything, so it would be equivalent if you lay the battens directly on the rafters).
http://www.skogsindustrierna.org/Li...ent.asp?archive=3&directory=749&document=9001
There is a table over dimensions of timber depending on span, snow zone, timber quality, and CC.
How are you planning to build the roof? What roof pitch? Are you thinking of laying raw boards/roof plywood with roofing felt, or oil-hardened board as a sub-roof, or are you skipping the sub-roof entirely and laying battens + metal on top of the rafters? On armats' website, it says that the battens should be at least 45x70 if using board as a sub-roof (which doesn't carry anything, so it would be equivalent if you lay the battens directly on the rafters).
Thank you, yes, it will probably only be sheet metal on the battens as it is supposed to be a "ventilated" wood shed. I guess I'll go with 45x70 then. Does anyone have tips on what to do with the walls... horizontal or vertical panel? Air gaps? What should you consider?
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The walls should just continue with a ventilated construction. One option is to attach 45x45 nail battens horizontally at CC 600 on the standing wall studs. Then you nail the regular standing exterior paneling on them, just as if you were going to add battens but skip the battens. This way, you get a nice ventilation gap between each board. My woodshed looks roughly like this, and it doesn't even have walls up to the ceiling and it works.
You definitely don't want the wood directly on the ground. An option that isn't very nice to walk on but ventilates well is to place battens at cc 450 or similar, and then lay fencing mesh (the kind with square mesh on the bias, about 5 cm large) on top for the wood to rest on. You might be able to combine and use raw wood flooring where you want to walk and mesh on the sides?
You definitely don't want the wood directly on the ground. An option that isn't very nice to walk on but ventilates well is to place battens at cc 450 or similar, and then lay fencing mesh (the kind with square mesh on the bias, about 5 cm large) on top for the wood to rest on. You might be able to combine and use raw wood flooring where you want to walk and mesh on the sides?
On the battens?Mikael_L said:
Or do you mean rafters?
I have TP20 on the patio roof resting on 28x70 (cc600), it's framed cc750 (odd measurement but that's how it turned out) under the battens.
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