Hello!
Now I'm going to start work on my life's project... Just want to bounce ideas to see if I'm thinking right. I will replace the facade, insulate, fix parts of the sill, and install new windows on my wooden house built in 1915.
Currently, there is no insulation in the house, more like a board on the interior walls... Behind the old facade, there is an air space of about 110 mm before the inner plank wall of horizontal boards.
The house has settlements but hasn't moved for at least 20-30 years.
1. I take one side at a time and tear off all the old facade down by the sill.
2. Replace the sill where needed, about 600-700 mm at a time.
3. Remove the rest of the facade and add new studs to straighten it.
4. Insulation with Roxull (?) directly against the inner plank wall. I use 2 different thicknesses here to ensure it's airtight. Is it okay to use 70+45 (=115 mm) where the space is 110mm? Does roll insulation work, or are boards required?
5. Weatherproof paper according to all the rules.
6. Replacement of windows, flashing, and framing. I have PVC windows; is it better to use caulking or foam insulation? (Darn good-looking windows by the way
)
7. Batten panel according to all the rules...
I'm sure I've forgotten something, but is the idea crazy, or am I on the right track?
THANK YOU!!!
LaraM - slightly confused
Now I'm going to start work on my life's project... Just want to bounce ideas to see if I'm thinking right. I will replace the facade, insulate, fix parts of the sill, and install new windows on my wooden house built in 1915.
Currently, there is no insulation in the house, more like a board on the interior walls... Behind the old facade, there is an air space of about 110 mm before the inner plank wall of horizontal boards.
The house has settlements but hasn't moved for at least 20-30 years.
1. I take one side at a time and tear off all the old facade down by the sill.
2. Replace the sill where needed, about 600-700 mm at a time.
3. Remove the rest of the facade and add new studs to straighten it.
4. Insulation with Roxull (?) directly against the inner plank wall. I use 2 different thicknesses here to ensure it's airtight. Is it okay to use 70+45 (=115 mm) where the space is 110mm? Does roll insulation work, or are boards required?
5. Weatherproof paper according to all the rules.
6. Replacement of windows, flashing, and framing. I have PVC windows; is it better to use caulking or foam insulation? (Darn good-looking windows by the way
)7. Batten panel according to all the rules...
I'm sure I've forgotten something, but is the idea crazy, or am I on the right track?
THANK YOU!!!
LaraM - slightly confused
Hi LaraM!
What a huge project!
And it's very difficult to give good advice!
Since you seem prepared to put in so much work, it would be very unfortunate if it went poorly because you might miss something seemingly "small."
It's tough to fall in love with an old house!
Replacing the sill is troublesome, but it is of course possible.
But why has it gone bad? Is it too close to the ground so that rain or snow is against it? In that case, you should address this too, otherwise, it will likely go bad again.
Don't forget the seal strip in between. Concrete and wood don't like close contact! Wood absorbs moisture, and concrete continuously absorbs "new" moisture.
I would also want age-resistant plastic against the inner wall as a vapor barrier. The wall you are building now will have completely different properties than the old one, which could breathe in all directions. This wall should keep heat in and moisture out, while still being ventilated enough not to retain moisture.
I would have preferred an even thicker wall and insulation than you are planning, but that depends on how warm it should be in winter. I think you should use boards of fairly high density. It doesn't matter much if it bulges out under the weather barrier (although you don't gain anything from it either), as long as you space out the outer cladding enough that you have an air gap between the barrier and the panel. Otherwise, the panel and barrier will age prematurely.
I think you should check with the manufacturer about the window sealing. They may have more specific tips so you can avoid drafts, cold air infiltration, and thermal bridges.
It's a bit different from window to window.
I don't want to comment on how crazy your idea is, (Ha, Ha!), couldn't have thought of a more "comprehensive" project myself!
Congratulations on being free from leisure problems for the next few years!
Good luck!
Best regards,
Johan
What a huge project!
And it's very difficult to give good advice!
Since you seem prepared to put in so much work, it would be very unfortunate if it went poorly because you might miss something seemingly "small."
It's tough to fall in love with an old house!
Replacing the sill is troublesome, but it is of course possible.
But why has it gone bad? Is it too close to the ground so that rain or snow is against it? In that case, you should address this too, otherwise, it will likely go bad again.
Don't forget the seal strip in between. Concrete and wood don't like close contact! Wood absorbs moisture, and concrete continuously absorbs "new" moisture.
I would also want age-resistant plastic against the inner wall as a vapor barrier. The wall you are building now will have completely different properties than the old one, which could breathe in all directions. This wall should keep heat in and moisture out, while still being ventilated enough not to retain moisture.
I would have preferred an even thicker wall and insulation than you are planning, but that depends on how warm it should be in winter. I think you should use boards of fairly high density. It doesn't matter much if it bulges out under the weather barrier (although you don't gain anything from it either), as long as you space out the outer cladding enough that you have an air gap between the barrier and the panel. Otherwise, the panel and barrier will age prematurely.
I think you should check with the manufacturer about the window sealing. They may have more specific tips so you can avoid drafts, cold air infiltration, and thermal bridges.
It's a bit different from window to window.
I don't want to comment on how crazy your idea is, (Ha, Ha!), couldn't have thought of a more "comprehensive" project myself!
Congratulations on being free from leisure problems for the next few years!
Good luck!
Best regards,
Johan
"Is the idea crazy?" Sure, taking on such a project is probably crazy enough when turnkey houses exist But fun when it's finished and you learn a lot along the way.
It was a long time ago when I did my monster project, but it involved, among other things, framing and insulating log walls from the 1800s, and I'm pretty sure we put a vapor barrier just as Korp-Johan describes.
Then I would use foam sealant around the windows; I did so when we replaced one of the windows in our current project house, and it's both convenient and effective, much better than packing, I think.
Have fun in the coming years! And good luck!
Jan-Å
Sure, taking on such a project is probably crazy enough when turnkey houses exist But fun when it's finished and you learn a lot along the way. It was a long time ago when I did my monster project, but it involved, among other things, framing and insulating log walls from the 1800s, and I'm pretty sure we put a vapor barrier just as Korp-Johan describes.
Then I would use foam sealant around the windows; I did so when we replaced one of the windows in our current project house, and it's both convenient and effective, much better than packing, I think.
Have fun in the coming years! And good luck!
Jan-Å
Haha! You react like most people around me - but I dare to refuse to tear...
So far I've "only" found about 400 mm of bad sill, and this is due to a leaking pipe. The house has been empty for the past 6-7 years, and it's evident that it's not a new damage. (But there will surely be more :-S )
Regarding the insulation, I will add 50 mm from the inside as well to make it a bit less "house-upside-down".
Thanks for the advice!!!
Have a great summer!
Best regards,
LaraM
So far I've "only" found about 400 mm of bad sill, and this is due to a leaking pipe. The house has been empty for the past 6-7 years, and it's evident that it's not a new damage. (But there will surely be more :-S )
Regarding the insulation, I will add 50 mm from the inside as well to make it a bit less "house-upside-down".
Thanks for the advice!!!
Have a great summer!
Best regards,
LaraM
The only thought I have is to avoid compressing the insulation, as it is the air in the material that insulates. If you compress the insulation, you lose insulating capability. However, it's only about 5mm, so it's nothing to worry about, just a tip along the way.LaraM said:
Thanks for the response, _bystrom_ =)
The reason I will (partly) use two different thicknesses is that I will straighten the walls "a little" at the same time... I was a bit unclear in the sentence there (also...)
Best regards,
LaraM - finally on the move =) Tomorrow, some old lockläkt will be removed, as well as a check of additional syll
The reason I will (partly) use two different thicknesses is that I will straighten the walls "a little" at the same time... I was a bit unclear in the sentence there (also...)
Best regards,
LaraM - finally on the move =) Tomorrow, some old lockläkt will be removed, as well as a check of additional syll