It's soon time to start installing the new kitchen. However, I have a few things I'm considering for a smooth solution.
We're going to tear out the entire kitchen and also rewire the electricity, so there will be drilling/sawing in some spots on the walls to get the wiring where we want it. Can these holes be nicely repaired or does it require putting drywall over the entire wall? I would prefer to avoid that if possible.
We plan to tile 25-30cm up on the wall above the countertop and then have wallpaper for the rest. Currently, there are wooden planks on the walls as a base. We’ve bought 60mm long screws for wood to fasten the kitchen cabinets as we hadn't planned on tiling initially. But now we've changed our minds.
How do you handle the drywall that must go up the wall to hold the tiles in place? Can you put some 6mm drywall on the entire wall and then attach the wall cabinets to the drywall with the screws we've bought, or do you think it would be too flimsy?
My father-in-law, who will be doing the electrical work, has never installed range hoods before and has asked me where the power should come out of the wall? Does anyone know how to handle the electricity for the hood? We've ordered it but haven't picked it up yet. I'm sure it's in the fan instructions but I wanted to check with you first to ease his concerns since he talked about putting some visible outlet on the wall instead of hidden.:eek:
/Kristina
We're going to tear out the entire kitchen and also rewire the electricity, so there will be drilling/sawing in some spots on the walls to get the wiring where we want it. Can these holes be nicely repaired or does it require putting drywall over the entire wall? I would prefer to avoid that if possible.
We plan to tile 25-30cm up on the wall above the countertop and then have wallpaper for the rest. Currently, there are wooden planks on the walls as a base. We’ve bought 60mm long screws for wood to fasten the kitchen cabinets as we hadn't planned on tiling initially. But now we've changed our minds.
How do you handle the drywall that must go up the wall to hold the tiles in place? Can you put some 6mm drywall on the entire wall and then attach the wall cabinets to the drywall with the screws we've bought, or do you think it would be too flimsy?My father-in-law, who will be doing the electrical work, has never installed range hoods before and has asked me where the power should come out of the wall? Does anyone know how to handle the electricity for the hood? We've ordered it but haven't picked it up yet. I'm sure it's in the fan instructions but I wanted to check with you first to ease his concerns since he talked about putting some visible outlet on the wall instead of hidden.:eek:
/Kristina
The electricity for the fan hood - you normally place an outlet inside behind the hood/pipe itself.
Regarding the screws - just make sure that it reaches through both cabinet + drywall and grips well into the wooden plank. How thick is the wooden plank, by the way?
(keep in mind that the cabinet itself might add 0.5 - 1cm with the back panel and "mounting anchors".
/Thomas
Regarding the screws - just make sure that it reaches through both cabinet + drywall and grips well into the wooden plank. How thick is the wooden plank, by the way?
(keep in mind that the cabinet itself might add 0.5 - 1cm with the back panel and "mounting anchors".
/Thomas
The wooden planks are 2cm thick, behind them studs 60cc and chipboard, the cabinet with the bracket is about 6mm, so max 1.5 cm with wall cabinet + drywall. Shouldn't the cabinets be able to stay with that screw or do we need to find the studs or something like that?Swappe said:
Nice to hear about the electricity for the hood, that's what I told him but he was thinking otherwise for some reason.
At the top near the ceiling, the ventilation duct (is that what it's called?) goes where all the cooking fumes should go out, you can build in that pipe with mdf and just have an open hole where the fan hood connects to it, right? You still connect some sort of flexible pipe on the inside, don't you? (one of those gray ones, I'm so bad with names)
/K
The cabinets are secured with the screws you purchased. If you're worried, you can add more screws lower down on the cabinet with similar mounting brackets as above or with angle irons. (if it's not already designed for it) =)
In the past, kitchen cabinets were nailed up with 4" nails, 2 in each cabinet, and they held without any problems.
Of course, you can enclose the ventilation duct with MDF. Keep in mind that if there is an inspection hatch, etc., it should be accessible without having to remove the MDF.
The ventilation duct should be intact between the fan and the chimney and connected as you described, either with a flexible pipe or a fixed one.
Do you live in a house or an apartment?
In some cases, at least in apartments, the kitchen fan is also used for ventilation purposes (exhaust), and in that case, you need to have a special fan that can close the dampers, otherwise, they will "dance".
In the past, kitchen cabinets were nailed up with 4" nails, 2 in each cabinet, and they held without any problems.
Of course, you can enclose the ventilation duct with MDF. Keep in mind that if there is an inspection hatch, etc., it should be accessible without having to remove the MDF.
The ventilation duct should be intact between the fan and the chimney and connected as you described, either with a flexible pipe or a fixed one.
Do you live in a house or an apartment?
In some cases, at least in apartments, the kitchen fan is also used for ventilation purposes (exhaust), and in that case, you need to have a special fan that can close the dampers, otherwise, they will "dance".
Yes, but then the frames should almost be up. It's an IKEA kitchen, so it came with two brackets for attaching to the cabinets/wall.Swappe said:The cabinets are held up with the screws you bought. If you're worried, you can add more screws lower down in the cabinet with similar brackets as above or with angle irons. (if it isn't already intended that way) =)
In the old days, kitchen cabinets were nailed up with 4" nails, 2 in each cabinet, and it held without problems.
You can certainly build the ventilation duct with MDF. Keep in mind that if there is an inspection hatch etc., it should be accessible without having to tear off the MDF.
The ventilation duct should be continuous between the fan and the chimney and connected as you described, either with a flexible pipe or with a fixed one.
Do you live in a house or an apartment?
In some cases, especially in apartments, the kitchen fan is also used for ventilation purposes (exhaust), and in such cases, you must have a special fan that can close the dampers, otherwise, they will "dance".
I've never seen an inspection hatch; is there always one? A silly question, but what is to be inspected through such a hatch?
We live in a house, and the fan will be about 40cm from the chimney, so the pipe will probably go in there directly. It's currently built with cabinets, so I'm not exactly sure how it looks when we tear it down.How do you handle holes that appear in other walls by electrical outlets and such? Is it just a matter of cutting out a piece from MDF or similar to close the hole, then placing tape on the seam, and then puttying? Or?
/Kristina
There is not always a gap - rather very rarely. =)
Just wanted to be clear in my post so you wouldn't be surprised when the chimney sweep comes to check.
You can fill the holes left by old junction boxes by inserting a "wooden piece" about 3cm wide and 10cm longer than the hole's diameter, centering it, and putting a screw at the top and bottom.. then you cut a round piece of plasterboard that fits in the old junction box hole and attach it to the "wooden piece."
Note, if the junction box will remain in the wall with connections inside, just put a plastic cover (junction box cover) over it, so you can access the cables + see that there is a junction box.
Just wanted to be clear in my post so you wouldn't be surprised when the chimney sweep comes to check.
You can fill the holes left by old junction boxes by inserting a "wooden piece" about 3cm wide and 10cm longer than the hole's diameter, centering it, and putting a screw at the top and bottom.. then you cut a round piece of plasterboard that fits in the old junction box hole and attach it to the "wooden piece."
Note, if the junction box will remain in the wall with connections inside, just put a plastic cover (junction box cover) over it, so you can access the cables + see that there is a junction box.
So we need to get a chimney sweep here to check that we've installed the fan correctly?Swappe said:
Glad to avoid putting drywall on entire walls, I completely understand how you mean we should cover the holes.
I'll make sure to close it up properly, though I hope my father-in-law takes care of all that. He usually brings everything he needs, as he's also redoing the electricity in the basement. Thank you so much for your help; now I feel like I've got a handle on everything ahead of the kitchen change. Otherwise, there's always this forum.
/Kristina
You DO NOT need to bring a sotare after you install the fan.. I meant when the sotare comes for their annual inspection...
Good luck - remember that if your father is unsure about the electrical part, it's worth bringing in someone qualified to make the small changes you need.
Good luck - remember that if your father is unsure about the electrical part, it's worth bringing in someone qualified to make the small changes you need.
Father-in-law is qualified otherwise he would not have been allowed to install the electricity in the house, I would have hired someone qualified, but he hasn't worked much with kitchens and never electrical for cooker hoods, just regular fans. He is in the process of replacing an electrical panel or something like that in the basement since everything is old in the house and needs replacement. Don't have proper electricity everywhere. If I remember correctly, he is an electrical engineer.Swappe said:
We've never had a chimney sweeper come to check anything, since we currently have district heating it is used for nothing more than venting from the bathroom and kitchen. Didn't think it was needed until we connect a fireplace next year.
/K
Holes in plasterboard?Savanna said:
http://byggsystem.knaufdanogips.se/mounting/processing/gypsum/repair/index.html
Also check processing:
http://byggsystem.knaufdanogips.se/mounting/processing/gypsum/index.html
And as already mentioned, you must not cover if there is still a junction box underneath.
The light switch is currently about 120cm up on the wall, so he's going to move it down. I would guess he'll just drill a new hole, move the box down (or get a new one), and then run all the cables to it. I don't remember how he did it in the bathroom. As mentioned, we currently don't have any gypsum on the walls; it's wooden planks with just a thin board on the surface. The electricity will be moved 10-20cm to the side in two places.Mikael_L said:
/Kristina