Member
· Västra Götalands
· 139 posts
Hi. I am planning to insulate a room in our old barn to have a hobby room, as well as store various chemicals frost-free. The idea is to maintain around 10 degrees in winter and then turn on extra heating when I am there.
Three of the walls are about 25cm concrete, there's a concrete slab floor, and one of the long sides is a wooden wall that is insulated with a door leading to the next part of the barn. Above the ceiling, there are an additional 2-3 floors, I haven't explored all the spaces yet as the barn is built in tiers but there is a lot of floor space. The entire area is anything but frost-free, it seems to get at least as cold inside as outside during the winter, but the door has not been closed to the rest of the barn, which is less airtight.
I was planning to frame 45x45 and insulate with 45mm of course. But how do I handle the air gap? An air gap will occur no matter what since there will be some space behind the frames, but how will the insulation stay in place if there's air behind the frames? Initially, I was going to put plastic behind the frames, but I have now read that I should skip the plastic. Outside the frames, I planned to put drywall. Initially, I wanted OSB, but due to price differences, it will be drywall. The area is around 25-30 sqm.
Best regards, Andreas
Three of the walls are about 25cm concrete, there's a concrete slab floor, and one of the long sides is a wooden wall that is insulated with a door leading to the next part of the barn. Above the ceiling, there are an additional 2-3 floors, I haven't explored all the spaces yet as the barn is built in tiers but there is a lot of floor space. The entire area is anything but frost-free, it seems to get at least as cold inside as outside during the winter, but the door has not been closed to the rest of the barn, which is less airtight.
I was planning to frame 45x45 and insulate with 45mm of course. But how do I handle the air gap? An air gap will occur no matter what since there will be some space behind the frames, but how will the insulation stay in place if there's air behind the frames? Initially, I was going to put plastic behind the frames, but I have now read that I should skip the plastic. Outside the frames, I planned to put drywall. Initially, I wanted OSB, but due to price differences, it will be drywall. The area is around 25-30 sqm.
Best regards, Andreas
Member
· Västra Götalands
· 139 posts
haha. No, you don't need to worry. It's more about car care products, paint, lacquer, and oil, etc.
I realized that the shed is not built in concrete but rather with quite sturdy timber and is plastered on the inside.
But back to the topic? How do I keep the insulation in place so it doesn't fall backward? Since I'm not building directly against the wall, I won't be able to nail a board or something similar.
I realized that the shed is not built in concrete but rather with quite sturdy timber and is plastered on the inside.
But back to the topic? How do I keep the insulation in place so it doesn't fall backward? Since I'm not building directly against the wall, I won't be able to nail a board or something similar.
Why not build directly against the wall? If it's wood with plaster, there should be no problem. Then I would probably try to have more insulation than 45 mm, I insulated a smaller shed last winter and I used 70*45 studs and 70 mm insulation, ideally I would have wanted 95 mm but it wasn't possible everywhere. I think 45 sounds like too little if it's an exterior wall in your case in all directions. Also, I think you should install wind barrier paper where you have bare wood walls. Use OSB boards instead of plasterboard; it's much better for screwing in shelves and hooks, etc.
Member
· Västra Götalands
· 139 posts
It's hard to explain what the walls look like, but building directly against the wall involves a lot of issues; besides, a ventilation gap doesn't hurt, right? Got a tip to put plastic strips behind the studs to hold up the insulation. There are only 2 outer walls, but it's really just as cold behind the others in winter. One of the outer walls is clad in metal. OSB is out due to the price. I'm going to put tool panels in the studs, and otherwise, it will mostly be floor-standing shelves.Carla said:
Regards, Andreas
It is always tricky to build interior walls against concrete walls, especially against basement walls. Concrete contains moisture, there is no getting away from it. The moisture must be able to migrate back and forth through the wall and be ventilated away on both sides. That is the basic rule.
Since it involves a storage room and thus is not so sensitive to appearance, I would consider materials that are inorganic (also applies in nicer rooms...).
The best solution is to add insulation on the outside of a concrete wall. This slows (not stops!) the moisture migration through the concrete. On the outermost layer, a "platon mat".
If it is not possible to add insulation on the outside, one should be able to add a spacer (possibly platon) on the inside. After that, you can build with leca blocks. They insulate and can be used as supports if you need to add beams for a ceiling.
As long as you have unheated/uninsulated space in the rest of the barn, you should build the "interior walls" like regular exterior walls...
Since it involves a storage room and thus is not so sensitive to appearance, I would consider materials that are inorganic (also applies in nicer rooms...).
The best solution is to add insulation on the outside of a concrete wall. This slows (not stops!) the moisture migration through the concrete. On the outermost layer, a "platon mat".
If it is not possible to add insulation on the outside, one should be able to add a spacer (possibly platon) on the inside. After that, you can build with leca blocks. They insulate and can be used as supports if you need to add beams for a ceiling.
As long as you have unheated/uninsulated space in the rest of the barn, you should build the "interior walls" like regular exterior walls...