Just bought a house from 1910 with an asbestos cement facade.
Not really 100% sure what's in the walls but standing planks seem to be visible under the asbestos cement.
I assume there isn't much insulation in the walls at all.
I've thought about removing the asbestos cement... after a lot of reading on this forum
But then what?? Ideas?
Add 45 insulation externally and internally?
Double up 45s externally?
How to deal with the moisture barrier... WHERE should it be placed? Air gap? (how big... where)
The reason I might consider adding insulation inward is that it seems to be... Plank. Reed mat. Plaster. Tretex. You can hear the plaster crumble when tapping the wall.
Anyone with experience?
It's my 1st house... is it obvious?
Take care,
/Thomas
Not really 100% sure what's in the walls but standing planks seem to be visible under the asbestos cement.
I assume there isn't much insulation in the walls at all.
I've thought about removing the asbestos cement... after a lot of reading on this forum
But then what?? Ideas?
Add 45 insulation externally and internally?
Double up 45s externally?
How to deal with the moisture barrier... WHERE should it be placed? Air gap? (how big... where)
The reason I might consider adding insulation inward is that it seems to be... Plank. Reed mat. Plaster. Tretex. You can hear the plaster crumble when tapping the wall.
Anyone with experience?
It's my 1st house... is it obvious?
Take care,
/Thomas
One should be a bit cautious with moisture barriers in older houses, but someone more knowledgeable will probably write more about it.
When you have plastic in a wall, it should ideally be positioned roughly 1/3 of the wall thickness in. In your case, for example, it could work with gypsum, 45 mm insulation (this is where you run the electricity, for example), possibly plastic, the old wall, more insulation, and a new façade.
When you have plastic in a wall, it should ideally be positioned roughly 1/3 of the wall thickness in. In your case, for example, it could work with gypsum, 45 mm insulation (this is where you run the electricity, for example), possibly plastic, the old wall, more insulation, and a new façade.
On most houses with eternit, the eternit was nailed directly onto the old wooden facade where only the battens were removed. This was the case with our house. The old facade boards were in excellent condition, BUT behind the facade boards, on the actual house structure, there was quite extensive rot damage. For instance, we have had to replace almost all the seal plates, wood under the windows, and two floor joists which were only held together by divine intervention.
If we hadn't taken down the original panel, we wouldn't have seen all of this, which was also wet. Our house is from '24.
If we hadn't taken down the original panel, we wouldn't have seen all of this, which was also wet. Our house is from '24.
Oh damn, that didn't sound good at all, let's hope I don't have the same bad luck
I've looked around a bit and the Opinions seem to be, as I said, to completely skip the plastic... or?
I've looked a bit at EKOFIBER, anyone have any thoughts on it?
I've looked around a bit and the Opinions seem to be, as I said, to completely skip the plastic... or?
I've looked a bit at EKOFIBER, anyone have any thoughts on it?
I had eternit on a small rental building. They were large panels, about 2.70 meters high. They were nailed onto battens on the old facade. But, in your case, check carefully how it looks under the eternit. Does it look like this, but vertical? http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ProduktListing.aspx?id=56179 I had such paneling on my house, with an additional nailing batten underneath. I also tore off this panel and batten. On the wall that emerged, I then nailed 45x95 standing and 45x45 horizontally. On top of this, outdoor gypsum, nailing batten, and new facade were added. I got a total of 140 mm insulation. I initially planned to insulate 95 mm, but when I saw the facade under the eternit, I decided to tear down that facade and replace it with insulation. The facade and battens built 45 mm, so I thought it was better with insulation instead.
Hey Janne..
Yep, looks exactly as you said..
Did you have damage underneath as well or?.. should I start getting nervous
Did you remove it because it was bad or to get more insulation without sacrificing the eave?
My eave is quite large, so it will just look better with a thicker wall.
You didn’t use any plastic then? or it should maybe be on the inside if there should even be any..
Yep, looks exactly as you said..
Did you have damage underneath as well or?.. should I start getting nervous
Did you remove it because it was bad or to get more insulation without sacrificing the eave?
My eave is quite large, so it will just look better with a thicker wall.
You didn’t use any plastic then? or it should maybe be on the inside if there should even be any..
I had significant damage on the eastern wall. This can certainly be due to poor maintenance by previous owners, before the asbestos siding was put up. Once the asbestos siding was put up, all the faults were concealed, and it looked good. I also had to replace the sill under almost the entire gable (eastern wall). I also had large damages under 2 windows on this gable (facing northeast). The reason I removed the old paneling was because I saw that it was 45 mm thick and I thought it was better to replace it with insulation. Plastic should absolutely not be used externally. I don't even have it inside. In the rooms, I have lovely treetex. Absolutely wonderful! I am happy that I made the decision to take down the old facade. Had I not done this, I would not have seen the damages that were there. Not fun if they show up later after many years. You don't need to be nervous at the moment. In my case, I believe a contributing factor was poor windows and window sills. Water could get in under the facade, and there was hardly any paint left on the facade either.
Now I got nervous
I have exactly the same construction with the difference that the panel seems to be almost level with the foundation. I guess there is a plank wall behind it. It would really dampen the mood over the plans if I found rotten beams.
I have a basement in my house, what kind of foundations did you have? Built in 1936.
I have exactly the same construction with the difference that the panel seems to be almost level with the foundation. I guess there is a plank wall behind it. It would really dampen the mood over the plans if I found rotten beams.
I have a basement in my house, what kind of foundations did you have? Built in 1936.
Not meant to scare, but that's how it was for me. Generally, I understand that a facade should extend over the foundation or basement wall. Water tends to flow inward if it ends flush. (Probably that capillary action or Murphy's law). It doesn't have to be that bad. One temporary fix could be to insert metal strips (any cheap metal will do) between the facade and the wall to prevent water from flowing into the sill. Basement here too, built in '32.
I was a bit careless with the terms. My facade doesn't end flush, i.e., it doesn't stand on the foundation. But it leans against the basement foundation. How far down the wall, I don't know.
I'll have to make some inspection holes here and there in the basement and take a look.
I'll have to make some inspection holes here and there in the basement and take a look.
If the facade is flush against the foundation, you should be careful and ensure there is paint on the ends to prevent water from being absorbed into the end grain. The optimal solution in such a situation would be to have a drip edge.
Droop nose, absolutely. But that hadn't been invented in '36 apparently.
There's no color on the ends either. But the façade is going to be repainted so there will be color.
We'll see if I can muster the energy to take a round with the saw.
There's no color on the ends either. But the façade is going to be repainted so there will be color.
We'll see if I can muster the energy to take a round with the saw.