I read a little too quickly. Is the gap in the corner? The advice I gave was that it's most important not to have a gap in the corners because there you want a soft seal. And it's not realistic that you can fill a 7mm gap in a corner with a soft seal so it looks nice. Can you redo the last board against the corner so you get the gap between two boards instead?
Hm, I prioritized having small gaps in the middle of the wall over fitting the corners exactly. Ideally, you should have the smallest gaps possible everywhere, but my house wasn't exactly straight as mentioned.nimhed said:
The corner gap is 0 mm at the top and 5-6 mm at the bottom. I don't really feel like moving the plasterboards now that all the screws are in...
Then we're talking about something completely different...v-g said:Palle S: Bathroom and usual unnecessary meticulousness
I can't sleep if I've done a sloppy job, you understand
d^_^bYes, that's certainly possible. In that particular board, I haven't tightened all the screws yet, so it might work to move it slightly.nimhed said:
What is meant by mjukfog? Is it regular latex caulk or something else?
If you are going to put up wallpaper, maybe it’s not that important. I fill and paint directly and then the corners are a risk area for cracking. And it's a latex caulk I’m talking about. I probably would have applied a flexible caulk whether I was wallpapering or not. Especially if it's a wooden house. Alternatively, not plastered the corners at all but left a gap to handle the movements.
I have spent the evening moving a plasterboard further into the corner. Now there is a maximum of 1 mm gap in the corner, so I should be able to create a nice inner corner.
Thanks for all the advice and tips from those who have engaged in my wall construction. I have learned a lot.
Thanks for all the advice and tips from those who have engaged in my wall construction. I have learned a lot.
"Alternatively, not plastering the corners at all and leaving a gap to handle the movements."
Interesting, I've had this idea in my construction project to leave a small gap and then add trim on one wall in the corner without attaching it to the other wall to conceal the gap, but allowing the wall to move freely anyway since mine is also a wooden house.
Interesting, I've had this idea in my construction project to leave a small gap and then add trim on one wall in the corner without attaching it to the other wall to conceal the gap, but allowing the wall to move freely anyway since mine is also a wooden house.
No, actually not, why would you if you're going to do the job right anyway?nimhed said:
Most importantly: you ALWAYS use a 50/50 profile in the inner corners, yes in all angles to prevent cracking.
Then I always use microlit, clearly the best result.
If you do this, you don't need to mess with that caulk that's talked about everywhere.
A lesson for everyone who wants to try: don't build with caulk.
If you can't get a mitre right, redo it.
It's only when you can build without this miracle salve that you're skilled.
But if you don't have the profile behind, there's a big chance it will crack, yes maybe even with the caulk.
TS: unnecessary expense with a new sheet ....:blushing:
Best regards,
estwing
when placing the first board, make sure it is plumb. don't just measure how high/wide a board should be.