I am interested in a house that was built sometime around the turn of the century... The house has a timber frame and the facade is asbestos cement... If the deal goes through, I plan to replace the facade with panels...
Is there anything specific to consider if so? Can you tear down the asbestos cement and put up battens and then panels, maybe you should have some kind of wind barrier in between?
Would this method impair the house's construction? Probably, the asbestos cement hasn't been there since the house was built, I thought...
Is there anything specific to consider if so? Can you tear down the asbestos cement and put up battens and then panels, maybe you should have some kind of wind barrier in between?
Would this method impair the house's construction? Probably, the asbestos cement hasn't been there since the house was built, I thought...
We removed the eternit from our turn-of-the-century house a few years ago. Some people leave the eternit in place behind the new panel, but we wanted to get rid of it. Additionally, it adds extra thickness to the facade if you don't remove the eternit.
Once you've removed it, either install asfaboard or windproof paper over the entire facade. It's likely that something like that is already under the eternit... or have you checked? It might also happen that the old panel is still in place under the eternit if there was previously a panel. People often saved time by installing a new panel/eternit directly over the old one.
You should use the paper or asfaboard to make the house windproof. These materials are suitable for old houses because they allow moisture to pass through but not wind. Asfaboard adds a little thickness but offers slightly more insulation than the paper. Depending on how well-preserved the rest of the house is, it might be more advantageous to use paper, which doesn't unnecessarily alter the proportions of the house. Windows and other details disappear into the facade if you build upon it, which significantly changes the appearance of older houses.
You can then either install battens or nail the panel directly onto the timber. But it depends on what type of paint you intend to use, as the battens also alter the proportions. If you use distemper paint, no air gap is required. You don't change the structure of the house by applying paper or board and then a new panel.
Once you've removed it, either install asfaboard or windproof paper over the entire facade. It's likely that something like that is already under the eternit... or have you checked? It might also happen that the old panel is still in place under the eternit if there was previously a panel. People often saved time by installing a new panel/eternit directly over the old one.
You should use the paper or asfaboard to make the house windproof. These materials are suitable for old houses because they allow moisture to pass through but not wind. Asfaboard adds a little thickness but offers slightly more insulation than the paper. Depending on how well-preserved the rest of the house is, it might be more advantageous to use paper, which doesn't unnecessarily alter the proportions of the house. Windows and other details disappear into the facade if you build upon it, which significantly changes the appearance of older houses.
You can then either install battens or nail the panel directly onto the timber. But it depends on what type of paint you intend to use, as the battens also alter the proportions. If you use distemper paint, no air gap is required. You don't change the structure of the house by applying paper or board and then a new panel.
An alternative to paper/Asfaboard is Gullfiber Fasadskiva. It is available in 30, 50, and 80 mm thickness. Obviously much more expensive than paper/Asfaboard, but it gives so much more back when the electricity bill comes.
I installed 50 mm Fasadskiva on my house and reduced electricity consumption by 4000-5000 kWh/year. This means the cost is "eaten up" in 3-4 years.
http://beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=11752
I installed 50 mm Fasadskiva on my house and reduced electricity consumption by 4000-5000 kWh/year. This means the cost is "eaten up" in 3-4 years.
http://beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=11752
you shouldn't do it too densely. more important with an air gap.
preferably use asphalt board or asphalt felt instead of plastic.
and you probably shouldn't insulate the windows with plastic insulation, insulation strips, and sealant. just use plastic insulation and insulation.
preferably use asphalt board or asphalt felt instead of plastic.
and you probably shouldn't insulate the windows with plastic insulation, insulation strips, and sealant. just use plastic insulation and insulation.
Sure, you should ideally think several times before insulating a timber frame. Often it's enough to seal the house properly. But of course, it also depends somewhat on its geographical location and such. That's why I suggested asfaboard or papp because the most important thing is to seal against drafts and these materials do that.
Additional insulation of a log house... well, it wasn't a super easy decision that I made, but at least I can check off that worry on the long list after A LOT of wavering and reading on that very subject... whether the decision was right, only time will tell 
One thing that is absolutely certain is that there are a heck of a lot of tricky decisions to make as a layperson.
My advice is to take one step at a time, first think through the actual deal with everything it involves, you'll probably manage to figure out how you/you all should do the rest later.
Good luck with the potential purchase and hope it goes through.
One thing that is absolutely certain is that there are a heck of a lot of tricky decisions to make as a layperson.
My advice is to take one step at a time, first think through the actual deal with everything it involves, you'll probably manage to figure out how you/you all should do the rest later.
Good luck with the potential purchase and hope it goes through.
Hello again!
There was no deal there last summer (for various reasons), but the house is still up for sale and I haven't really been able to let it go
I have a few questions which might be difficult for you to answer, but I'm trying!
The house is rectangular, 1½ stories...Log frame, about 10x7 meters...I suspect that a wall through the house is load-bearing, and if a deal becomes relevant, I would like to make an opening in it... The opening will be where an existing door is, and will be about 4.5 meters...
Are there any problems with that given that it’s a log frame? The wall in question is probably not logged, one can assume? What I really want to know is if you can do as usual, by inserting a laminated beam under the upper floor or if you have to do something different solely because of the log frame? That was about it for now...
//calle
There was no deal there last summer (for various reasons), but the house is still up for sale and I haven't really been able to let it go
I have a few questions which might be difficult for you to answer, but I'm trying!
The house is rectangular, 1½ stories...Log frame, about 10x7 meters...I suspect that a wall through the house is load-bearing, and if a deal becomes relevant, I would like to make an opening in it... The opening will be where an existing door is, and will be about 4.5 meters...
Are there any problems with that given that it’s a log frame? The wall in question is probably not logged, one can assume? What I really want to know is if you can do as usual, by inserting a laminated beam under the upper floor or if you have to do something different solely because of the log frame? That was about it for now...
//calle
Last edited: