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8 replies
5k views
8 replies
Spacing with drywall WITHOUT tiles?
I only find half the answer when I search for BH, so it has to be its own thread.
Building a bathroom. I've framed a load-bearing wall. Since some studs needed to be in specific places, I only got the measurement 60cc in two "sections". The others are around 40cc.
I'm going to install drywall (of course). From what I've managed to read, a single layer of drywall should be mounted on studs 30 cc. Double drywall can be set on 60cc. But this has always been in connection with talking about tiles on the wall.
So I'm wondering the following:
If I'm going to paint the waterproofing layer, is there still the same need to frame 30 cc? I mean it's not that heavy.
If I go with double drywall instead, how do I actually install these? I can't really find that either. You're supposed to stagger the joints, right?
I was considering nailing raw board under the drywall. Trying to find clarity on whether that would be okay or not according to MVK's industry standards.
Building a bathroom. I've framed a load-bearing wall. Since some studs needed to be in specific places, I only got the measurement 60cc in two "sections". The others are around 40cc.
I'm going to install drywall (of course). From what I've managed to read, a single layer of drywall should be mounted on studs 30 cc. Double drywall can be set on 60cc. But this has always been in connection with talking about tiles on the wall.
So I'm wondering the following:
If I'm going to paint the waterproofing layer, is there still the same need to frame 30 cc? I mean it's not that heavy.
If I go with double drywall instead, how do I actually install these? I can't really find that either. You're supposed to stagger the joints, right?
I was considering nailing raw board under the drywall. Trying to find clarity on whether that would be okay or not according to MVK's industry standards.
As I wrote in my post: I will PAINT the waterproofing layer according to MVK's industry regulations. So no plastic mat. And I'm not asking about waterproofing at all, I have that under control.
If it works with double drywall and c/c600, you could probably go with that. However, if you check the drywall manufacturers' websites, double drywall walls are recommended to have a maximum c/c 450, but you should be able to solve this by measuring a 450 distance. This way, the load-bearing studs remain, but you get a good distance that works for 900 panels. It does involve a bit more work, though. The reason the manufacturers use 450 in their wall construction drawings, I suspect, is that 900 panels are much easier to handle than 1200; these are not fun to work with if it's tight, such as in stairs and the like.
I'm considering framing up with cc 30 and using single plasterboard as it feels right now. It won't be too much extra work. I was actually thinking of just framing up with 45's between the 95's. That should work if it's just for attaching the plasterboard, right?
45s might be a bit shaky, but it should work since you're not using any tiles. I'm not sure how sensitive painted waterproof layers are to movements in the wall, thinking mostly that it doesn't risk cracking. Another option is to use 45*70 just to be on the safe side. Regarding the raw wood panels, reading what's available here on the forum, OSB is at least approved, which reasonably means raw wood panels should be as well in that case.
Published 2011-01-21 13:58
OSB in bathrooms?
Can I put an OSB board in the bathroom if I place an approved bathroom board on top of it?
Answer:
Hi,
Yes, that's perfectly fine. In the version of BBV that was in effect from the summer of 2007 until a year ago, wood-based boards behind waterproof boards were prohibited, but with the latest version, wood-based boards have again been allowed behind waterproof boards. Remember to install the OSB boards with a 3 mm gap (that's why they're only 1197 mm wide instead of 1200 mm).
Regards
Jon Hedelin
Published 2011-01-21 13:58
OSB in bathrooms?
Can I put an OSB board in the bathroom if I place an approved bathroom board on top of it?
Answer:
Hi,
Yes, that's perfectly fine. In the version of BBV that was in effect from the summer of 2007 until a year ago, wood-based boards behind waterproof boards were prohibited, but with the latest version, wood-based boards have again been allowed behind waterproof boards. Remember to install the OSB boards with a 3 mm gap (that's why they're only 1197 mm wide instead of 1200 mm).
Regards
Jon Hedelin
Why not 95 directly instead of 45? Then you know you have a wall that's easy to tile if the painting doesn't turn out as you imagined. Feel free to share the result of the painted wall afterward, sounds creative.
Ola: The crux is that I need to follow MVK's industry regulations, and it seems that wood-based materials are not okay. Although it's a bit vaguely expressed.
Noseone/pbengtsson: Tiling won't be relevant in the future either for various reasons. One reason is that it's questionable if painted waterproofing is approved as waterproofing under tiles. I have a completely separate thread for the entire project where you can follow the development: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/badrum/165162-vart-badrumsprojekt.html
Regarding the dimensions of the framework, I might have to bend. At a height of 2.4 m, a 45 is a bit wobbly. On the other hand, it will be reinforced for attaching a mirror, etc. And on the other hand again, the exterior walls are reinforced with 45s that are stable. But there is more to fasten on.
Edit: a thought about the existing waterproofing under the tiles. You can tile on a plastic mat under certain conditions. If the mat itself has a lifespan of 10-15 years, it feels questionable to tile on a mat that's been there a few years.
Noseone/pbengtsson: Tiling won't be relevant in the future either for various reasons. One reason is that it's questionable if painted waterproofing is approved as waterproofing under tiles. I have a completely separate thread for the entire project where you can follow the development: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/badrum/165162-vart-badrumsprojekt.html
Regarding the dimensions of the framework, I might have to bend. At a height of 2.4 m, a 45 is a bit wobbly. On the other hand, it will be reinforced for attaching a mirror, etc. And on the other hand again, the exterior walls are reinforced with 45s that are stable. But there is more to fasten on.
Edit: a thought about the existing waterproofing under the tiles. You can tile on a plastic mat under certain conditions. If the mat itself has a lifespan of 10-15 years, it feels questionable to tile on a mat that's been there a few years.
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