Help, demolition of load-bearing wall Moelven

[Gnomeboy]

Hello everyone!

I'm about to start renovating our living room and dining room in our Moelven modular house from 1970, and we have a load-bearing wall section we want to remove because it looks completely insane. Attaching some pictures!
We want to remove the wall towards the beginning of the opening that leads to the other room, so to speak.

It's visible on the ceiling and drawings that the wall was supposed to run across the entire house originally, but they then decided to end it in the middle of the house.

As mentioned, it's a Moelven modular house from the '70s and consists of 5 modules, so the module joints are of course load-bearing. But I'm having a bit of trouble interpreting the drawings and naturally have no idea how to proceed with demolishing the wall sections.

Place posts at each end with a glulam beam in between?

Look at the pictures and help me

Best regards, Robin

 

[Gnomeboy]

If you look at the house plan, there is a blue-painted part where the wall would have gone, so what's left of that wall facing the adjoining room is to be removed.

 

[saiter]

Have you received help??
What type of roof and trusses do you have on the house?
It doesn’t seem like there is a beam where the wall is missing. !!
So the question is whether the roof is entirely self-supporting and they have suspended the ceiling from the trusses. ??

//AA

 

[Gnomeboy]

Have you received any help??
What kind of roof and rafters do you have on the house?
There doesn't seem to be a beam where the wall is missing. !!
So the question is if the roof is completely free-standing and they have suspended the ceiling in the rafters. ??

//AA

Hello!

Haven’t received any help yet.. Had a carpenter over the week but haven’t gotten help yet..

oh, I'm not good at this part.. There are thin rafters, then there are a lot of boards overlapping along the entire joint in the attic.. The roof is standard 27 degrees with roof sheathing, felt, and then concrete tiles.

I can go up to the attic and take pictures of how it looks so we all understand better.

 

[Gnomeboy]

Here are some pictures from the attic..

The module seams are quite visible here ☺️

 

[saiter]

Those trusses need support underneath.
You should probably put up a beam along the entire wall you are removing.

//AA

 

[kest]

Those trusses need support underneath.
You should probably put up a beam along the entire wall you're removing.

//AA

If the wall runs along the trusses, I have a hard time seeing why you would need to support them.

 

[Gnomeboy]

Two completely different answers here..

I dug around in the drawings now and found this, if it's of any help? It says something about Max span in the top left?

I see that it's also a 25-degree saddle roof.

 

[saiter]

The thing is that your roof trusses are not free-standing, they need support from the house underneath.
Some of them are placed by a wall, others between the walls, in the open areas, but the latter are supported by the ceiling joists.
If too much of this support is removed, it is possible/probable that something will give in and come downwards.
I would have set up a support beam as reinforcement.

//AA

 

[Gnomeboy]

The thing is that your trusses are not self-supporting and need the support of the house below.
Some of them are positioned over a wall, others between the walls, in the open spaces, but the latter are supported by the ceiling joists.
If too much of this support is removed, it is possible/probable that something will give way and come down.
I would put up a supporting beam as reinforcement.

//AA

Now I understand what you mean. 2 posts on either side of the room and a glulam beam is the way to go then, I guess? Then the next step is to get help with the sizing! I'll check with the carpenters next week.

 

[saiter]

Yes, check with the carpenter. You might get good tips on site.
You can find a dimensioning table online.
Make sure that the pillars have a proper foundation. Otherwise, you'll have problems with the joists.
(If there's only particle board and insulation underneath.)

//AA

 

[BirgitS]

Then I understand what you mean. Two posts on each side of the room and a glued laminated beam is the way to go then, I guess? The next step is to get help with sizing then! I'll check with the carpenters next week.

Carpenters are not reliable when it comes to the sizing of load-bearing parts; you need a structural engineer or similar. Interventions in load-bearing structures usually require you to make a building notification to the municipality, and they usually want to know how the sizing has been determined as well.

 

[Gnomeboy]

Carpenters are not reliable when it comes to sizing load-bearing parts, so you need a structural engineer or similar. Alterations to load-bearing structures usually require submitting a building notification to the municipality, and they often want to know how the sizing calculations were made as well.

sometimes you are lucky to know skilled carpenters who have good connections with engineers. It's just that the carpenter needs to show up sometime too. Haha

I've got the building notification and such under control!
No point in proceeding until you have more information and see a potential start for the project.

 

[Clas2]

Have a similar house, how did it go, is it enough with the walls in the middle of the house or did you have to support off?

 

[Gnomeboy]

I have a similar house, how did it go for you, are the walls in the middle of the house sufficient or did you have to add support?

Hi!

It never became a reality, and the house was sold in favor of a larger one.

But from what I can remember, my carpenter friend said he wanted to place a beam between the outer wall on the gable (towards the garage) and the load-bearing wall between the dining room and kitchen/guest wc. About 8 meters long.

Hope this helps.