Hello!

I have a wood stove where something had come down the chimney and melted around the flue pipe. It smelled like burnt plastic throughout the house. I suspect the magpies. The flue pipe was sealed to the chimney with mineral wool. It also got dirty, so I'm cleaning the pipe and thinking of replacing the seal. Now I happen to have a bale of glass wool (isover g3 touch) lying in the garage and I'm quite reluctant to get a bale of mineral wool if it can be avoided. The glass wool has EU class A1, but I believe mineral wool is supposed to have higher heat resistance. Can I go ahead with the glass wool, or will I start a fire that way?

Picture of the pipe before and after cleaning.

Close-up of a stove flue pipe with surrounding insulation, showing soot and discoloration before being cleaned. Close-up of a fireplace flue pipe, showing soot and residue on both the pipe and interior chimney walls, before and after cleaning comparison.
 
gedi gedi said:
Hello!

I have a wood-burning stove where something had come down the chimney and melted around the stovepipe. It smelled like burnt plastic throughout the house. I suspect the magpies. The stovepipe was sealed to the chimney with mineral wool. It got dirty too, so I'm cleaning the pipe and thinking I'll replace the seal. Now I happen to have a bale of glass wool (Isover G3 touch) lying in the garage and I'm not keen on getting a bale of mineral wool too if it can be avoided. The glass wool has EU class A1, but I remember that mineral wool should have higher heat resistance. Can I go ahead with the glass wool or will I start a fire then?


Picture of the pipe before and after cleaning.

[image] [image]
I did the simple experiment of taking a tuft of glass wool and holding it over a lighter. It doesn't burn (just as the fire classification indicates) but it does deform. So if it gets hot enough, it won't stay sealed. That's reason enough to get the right mineral wool instead.
 
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