need some help and advice on plastering basement walls

[Haba_tsutt]

I'm in the process of restoring my basement after excavating for insulation/floor heating and have now reached the stage of plastering the walls... The concrete block is exposed and is thus ready for the plaster layer. Interior walls.

Here's how I plan to do it - let me know if there's anything you think is completely wrong.

1) Vacuum the wall
2) Water and prime with Finjas Grundningsbruk A
3) Mesh (I’m doing this just because it makes it safer for me as an amateur to apply the plaster) - maybe an unnecessary step?
4) Install guide rails
5) Plaster with Finjas Puts- & Murbruk C
6) Smooth with a float
7) Moisten for a couple of days

Now to my questions;
a) How do I handle the inner corners, any good tips for achieving them?
b) How long should I wait before starting to float?

Any other good tips?

 

[Steinmeister]

I would have skipped the net, it's not needed for concrete hollow blocks. If the concrete hollow block is unevenly laid, I would have used a B mortar before C. The recommended thickness for C mortar is 5mm.

You can freehand the inner corners, I have no better tips.

Scrape off, it's nicer to scrub when the render has set a bit. You'll have to experiment, it depends on curing time, etc.

Good luck

 

[MaxPax]

The recommended layer thickness for C-bruk is 10mm per application, however, 5mm applies for "finbruk" with up to 1mm ballast size. Regular C-bruk has 3mm ballast size.

 

[Steinmeister]

True as you say Maxpax, I based it on the bags I had in the garage and it is c finputs

 

[Haba_tsutt]

Thank you for the comments so far. It will not be polished or finely smoothed since the "designansvarig" has decided that we should have a slightly rougher surface. Therefore, the final result will be as it becomes when tearing off the surface with the C-bruket...

What are the disadvantages of mounting netting? Other than time consumption?

 

[MaxPax]

What are the disadvantages of installing nets? Other than time consumption?

* Costs money
* Risk of it bulging in places you notice only after you've started plastering there = hassle
* Cuts and scratches, the net is sharp
* More complicated
* More cumbersome
* More troublesome

 

[Steinmeister]

We all have a designansvarig that we want to stay on good terms with.

 

[smiler]

Why choose plaster over, for example, Gypsum plaster?
Also planning to repair the basement walls, got the advice Gypsum.

 

[Haba_tsutt]

...to avoid the risk of trapped moisture. I will only have breathable (diffusion-open) materials in the basement. The floors will be tiled and the walls plastered, with regular mortar. Around the shower corner in the bathroom, I will use Kiilto's system, which is also diffusion-open. Keramix. It withstands penetrating moisture.

 

[Jonatan Aasa]

insulation and underfloor heating, have you dug down to gravel or soil?

I myself used wall and plaster c straight through, pre-wetted the walls and applied plaster water before slapping on the plaster. I recommend having two trowels to get the plaster out of the bucket. I went at it with one hand and pulled the trowel straight up, which resulted in an overstrained wrist and arm.

 

[aldrigklar]

...to avoid the risk of trapped moisture. I will only have breathable materials (diffusion open) in the basement. There will be tiles on the floors and plastered walls, with regular mortar. Around the shower corner in the bathroom, I will use Kiilto's system which is also diffusion open. Keramix. It withstands penetrating moisture.

Gypsum plaster is diffusion open, withstands penetrating moisture, and works even in damp basements and wet rooms. This myth/lie that gypsum plaster has the same properties as gypsum boards seems impossible to kill here on byggahus.se. I have learned that when you, as a newcomer, say something based on facts, it can never triumph over what a forum god says based on nothing. Maybe regular C-plaster with diffusion open paint is preferable in this case, but right should be right.

 

[neo11]

Gypsum plaster is vapor open, withstands penetrating moisture, and also works in damp basements and wet rooms. This myth/lie that gypsum plaster has the same properties as gypsum boards seems to be impossible to dispel here on byggahus.se. I have learned that when you as a newcomer say something based on facts, it can never trump what a forum god says based on nothing. Then maybe regular C-plaster with vapor-open paint is preferable in this case, but right should be right.

Old thread, but I believe this is incorrect.
I just talked to Weber support and they advised against using gypsum plaster in underground wet areas and where there is a risk of penetrating moisture.

The gypsum plaster becomes like placing a gypsum board in water, he expressed, perhaps not entirely truthfully.
But maybe it becomes so over time. Gypsum swells from water.
But if anyone has a different opinion, I'm curious about the facts.

 

[Lechuza]

Old thread, but I consider this incorrect. I just talked to Weber support and they advised against using plaster in wet areas underground and the risk of incoming moisture.

The plaster becomes like putting a plasterboard in water, he expressed it, maybe not entirely truthfully. But maybe it becomes so over time. Plaster swells from water. But if anyone is of a different opinion, I am curious about the facts.

Ardex F5 is approved, it withstands incoming moisture and is diffusion-open. But better to use plaster. Cheaper and Ardex F5 is really hard to sand.