I was planning to build a very simple storage door (about 1000x1800 mm).
The frame will be built from 45x45 with a cross in the middle (according to the picture).
Outside, horizontal fjällpanel will be attached.

My question is, how should I place the cross to get the best stability?
According to alternative 1, short side-short side,
alternative 2, long side-long side,
or alternative 3, in the corner?

Or maybe short side-long side?

Comparison of three shed door designs with different cross brace orientations: Option 1 short side, Option 2 long side, Option 3 corner brace.

And will it be enough to attach with similar hinges?

Metal hinge with dimensions 21mm x 74mm x 70mm, featuring five screw holes, used for door attachment.
 
  • Like
Annica Spjuth
  • Laddar…
E
I don't think it matters much which option you attach in the corners, although option 3 is the most aesthetically pleasing from a construction standpoint. However, you will get some bending in the rule where you attach the hinges. It might be a good idea to check that it doesn't bulge too much. Also, make sure to nail the panel in the cross.
 
  • Like
Lexington
  • Laddar…
slacker said:
My perception is that it will warp over time as the wood chooses to twist. The builder posted an excellent instruction a while ago that you can easily find here:

[link]
Yes, thank you, that post was superb!
However, I already have the wood at home and with the Builder's method, it won't be a simple storage door anymore :)
 
ERJ said:
I don't think it matters much which you attach in the corners, although option 3 is the most aesthetically pleasing from a construction perspective. However, you will get some torque on the beam where you attach the hinges. It might be a good idea to check that it doesn't warp too much. Also, make sure to nail the panel in the cross
Yes, option 3 will look the best, and require the most work. Moreover, the construction is only visible when you're in the storage fetching a shovel or rake, so it doesn't matter. But the more I think about it, shouldn't option 2 be the most stable? With that solution, I should almost be able to move down the short beams so I can attach these types of hinges instead?
Steel gate hinges with two elongated flat plates and pivot pins, each with pre-drilled holes for screws. Ideal for shed doors or gates.

Like this
Cross-braced frame diagram with two red diagonal lines forming an X, supported by horizontal and vertical black lines, illustrating structural stability concept.

then nothing should be nailed at all, rather screwed :) But good tip to screw in the cross!
 
Last edited:
The door will be in this space, does anyone have any other opinions about my thinking? :)

Outdoor wooden frame structure with garden tools, wheelbarrow, and green bin against a black fence. Space intended for a door installation.
 
The mother of all outbuilding doors, the one with Z on the back?

Not compatible with horizontal boards though.
I guess the idea is that the panel should be the same as the walls. An alternative to attach it afterward?
 
Exactly, but instead of a Z, it will be an N (plus an extra diagonal board). I was thinking of building the door frame first and then putting paneling on everything afterwards!
 
Last edited:
If you follow post #5, move the cross so that it falls within the "frame," i.e., from crosspiece to crosspiece. As you've sketched, you get bending forces in the vertical studs from the cross braces. Additionally, you either have to notch them half in half in four places and weaken the construction or place the cross braces on the outside/inside of the "frame."

If it were me, I would settle for a single diagonal brace, allowing it to run from crosspiece to crosspiece in a classic manner. You can notch it slightly into the studs so that nails/screws only hold it in position without taking up any forces. (This is the most structurally elegant solution but probably makes no practical difference in this case with such a small and lightweight door.)
 
Thanks for the answers!
Let's see if there's time to whip something up over the weekend, but I've gotten some good ideas!
I'll probably follow your advice Oldboy!
Just one question, why did you only choose one diagonal? Just because it doesn't matter or because you weaken it when you do half and half?
 
Because one diagonal brace is enough.
(Also saves material and labor time.)

A diagonal brace makes the door function like a shelf bracket with the two attachment points on the wall via the hinges.
 
  • Like
Lexington
  • Laddar…
harry73
Double doors? Then the load will be less
Red barn wall with multiple horizontal metal hinges and handles, next to greenery. Discussing possible installation of double doors for reduced load. Open double doors of a red shed revealing a cluttered interior with bicycles, tools, and a yellow bucket.
 
Double doors are a good idea, however, each door becomes only 50 cm, feels like one door is enough.
 
Great!
I already have the material, so I'll see if I'm satisfied with one or if I'll add a second one too!
I'll try to remember to take a picture when everything is finished!
 
harry73
Mina is 60 cm wide
 
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.