Hello, I'm organizing a bathroom where I'm going to change the studs to a larger dimension for pipe routing in the wall. Now the corresponding wall in the adjoining room is also fastened in the same studs that are to be replaced. Can you drive a screw through the stud and reach the backside of the paneling to attach these, or is that not a good idea? I have some margin up to the wallpaper since there's fiberboard as an intermediate layer after the paneling.
I've thought about that too. There's 35x35 there right now, and I can't find this dimension at the lumber yards like byggmax, bolist etc (at least on their websites). Is it still viable?H Huzzbutt said:
I've been told that it should be cc30 to please the insurance companies, and then it's easier to do it from scratch. I'm still probing for information on how things should be to do it right.
Would it be OK to build on these 35x35 and then have cc60?
If you want to achieve cc30, I think you can build on the 35x35 studs and set new studs between them to achieve cc30. A rational process is to first install the cc30 studs, press in a layer with 45mm insulation, and then add extra studs on the 35x35 wood and add another layer of insulation so that it becomes tight and tidy.J Jontha said:
Do you think I can cut away from the 70-rule at every point where an old horizontal 35x35-rule intersects the new 70-rule when I set cc30? The alternative is to take them out and saw them so the 70-rule remains intact. Now that I ask, option 2 feels the least complicated anyway.