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8 replies
Rendering mortar becomes porous and cracks easily
Some time ago, I bought some mortar mix to cast small brick pieces for the kid (miniature bricks in the dimensions 5x20x10mm). I printed molds with the 3D printer so we could cast lots of bricks that he could then build small houses with.
But despite following the "recipe" with water, sand & mortar, the small bricks became very porous and could be broken very easily. If you massaged them with your hands, they would easily release lots of sand.
Now I made a batch of about 1-2 liters of mortar, which is a bit extreme compared to using packs of mortar. Probably the mortar we mixed becomes very sensitive to moisture/drying/temperature.
Is there anyone here who is skilled with mortar who might be able to give tips on how we should think when doing what we're doing? Should we try to keep it extra moist? Or should we try to mix it extra dry to make this work? Or should we choose another type of mortar/cement to succeed with what we want to do?
Previously, I tried to repair a ceramic grill, and it turned out the same with the mortar. Even then, I mixed a very small batch compared to how it's usually mixed.
Mortar mix C is what we chose.
Very grateful for any tips!
But despite following the "recipe" with water, sand & mortar, the small bricks became very porous and could be broken very easily. If you massaged them with your hands, they would easily release lots of sand.
Now I made a batch of about 1-2 liters of mortar, which is a bit extreme compared to using packs of mortar. Probably the mortar we mixed becomes very sensitive to moisture/drying/temperature.
Is there anyone here who is skilled with mortar who might be able to give tips on how we should think when doing what we're doing? Should we try to keep it extra moist? Or should we try to mix it extra dry to make this work? Or should we choose another type of mortar/cement to succeed with what we want to do?
Previously, I tried to repair a ceramic grill, and it turned out the same with the mortar. Even then, I mixed a very small batch compared to how it's usually mixed.
Mortar mix C is what we chose.
Very grateful for any tips!
I would probably suggest trying husfix or even self-leveling compound instead of plaster or gypsum. Then it's extremely tricky with the right water amount for such small quantities, and if you don't cover it with plastic, the drying out factor is considerable.
I was just about to add that both underneath and on top, I put cling film to prevent it from drying out too much.
Is husfix or self-leveling compound something that becomes like mortar in hardness? (I'm thinking, it's not like regular filler?)
Is husfix or self-leveling compound something that becomes like mortar in hardness? (I'm thinking, it's not like regular filler?)
How long did you keep them moist? At least two days?
I would guess a longer time. I remember spraying on water, but of course, it could have dried in between. The water buffer in the small pluppar is not large.
Question: Can they get too much water? (Now I don't mean when mixing but when you later moisten.)
Question: Can they get too much water? (Now I don't mean when mixing but when you later moisten.)
Both are finer since the material is smaller and becomes harder than both mortar and plaster. Otherwise, it's the same as any cement product that is supposed to cure rather than dry.A Axiotrade said:
A thought that occurred to me, given that you're working with such small things and probably don't want tips on something in a 20kg bag, is to try tile adhesive which is available in small bags.
As mentioned, try with husfix or alternatively gypsum plaster (not the gypsum filler but the gypsum plaster that comes in a 25 kg bag). Husfix is usually available in a 5 kg box/container.
They don't need to be kept moist either and do not shrink.
They don't need to be kept moist either and do not shrink.
That kind of hobby plaster that you use to cast figures with that the kids paint on? It becomes rock-hard and not too sensitive to water
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