Currently renovating an old 1930s house where the studs are not level at all. Closest to the walls, it is higher than in the middle, but even between some of the studs further into the middle of the room, there is quite a difference.

How can this be resolved most easily? Screw new studs onto the old ones, but slightly higher to ensure they are level? Try to splice some board on top of the existing studs where it dips?

If you are going to splice studs on the side, what size do they need to be? What's sufficient?

Edit: planning to lay new floorboards and flooring on top of that.
 
If you're going to frame and attach panels, use adjusting screws, very convenient

Read hastily, thought it was a wall
 
4 40talshuset said:
I am renovating an old 1930s house where the studs are not level at all. Towards the walls it is higher than in the middle, but even between some studs closer to the middle of the room there is quite a difference.

How is this most easily solved? Screw new studs onto the old ones, just higher, and make sure they are level? Try to splice on some board where it dips on top of existing studs?

If you are going to splice studs on the side, what size do they need to be? What is sufficient?

Edit: I will then lay new floor chipboard and flooring on top of that.
On the floor joists in my house (1940s), they had laid hardboard and felt paper in varying thicknesses to level the floor joists.
 
nino nino said:
If you're going to install new studs and put up panels, use adjustment screws, very handy
Please elaborate! Sounds interesting
I currently have existing wooden studs that are not level, neither in length nor width, and not aligned with each other either
 
Violina Violina said:
On my floor joists in my house (1940s), they had laid Masonite and lump paper in varying thickness to level the joists
yep same here.. They unfortunately came loose when I removed the floor. But it seems like quite the hassle to do that.. But it's certainly an option. Unfortunately, you can't really screw glue against the joist then, but maybe it's not necessary. Maybe just screwing the floor chipboard is enough.
 
4 40talshuset said:
Please elaborate! Sounds interesting.
I have existing wooden studs that are not level, neither in length nor width, and not compared to each other either.
I thought it was a wall...

I renovated/built an apartment with similar problems.
We planed down where it was high and then screwed studs on the side where it was low.
The simplest way is to set a height and then screw new ones from the side.
 
nino nino said:
Thought it was the wall...

I renovated/built an apartment with similar problems.
There, we planed down where it was high, then screwed battens on the side where it was low.
The easiest is probably to take a level, then screw new from the side
Yep, it sounds like I also need to do that. The problem is I can't quite reach with the planer to plane down the battens against the wall (the ones that are clearly the highest. They are partly under the wall but obviously stick out, but my machine can't reach properly.

What dimensions are needed for the battens that are screwed onto existing battens that will support the floor?
 
You should be able to saw off a part with, for example, a chainsaw.
I used the old floor which was maybe 35-40mm thick and 100-120mm wide.
It has worked for 15 years, otherwise it's probably 45x95 studs or some other width depending on how much it needs to be raised.
 
nino nino said:
You should be able to saw off some part with a chainsaw, for example.
I used the old floor which was maybe 35-40mm thick and 100-120mm wide.
It's worked for 15 years, otherwise it's 45x95 joists or some other width depending on how much it needs to be raised.
yeah, perhaps some saw can work. Unfortunately, there's some plankjävel which, in turn, rests over kottlingar on one side. I don't dare to saw down that plank too much since it's not that thick. (In this case, the joist is under the wall, and then the planks stick out to support the floor in turn.. Of course, something always has to be difficult..

need to raise it a centimeter at the worst spot.
 
You don't have to go all the way down, just below the chipboard's top edge.
 
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