We are framing the structure for our extension and will have a staircase to the new upper floor. The stairwell will be 185cm wide and 165cm deep, but we could sacrifice a bit of the closet behind and increase the depth to 210cm if it resulted in a significantly better staircase. The floor-to-floor height is 260cm.
According to various staircase formulas, a U-shaped staircase without a landing just fits with 14 steps and a 510cm footprint with 165cm in depth, but with a landing, 250cm in depth would be needed (which I don't have).
The question now is if anyone has any better ideas than these standard formulas? Does anyone have a similar staircase and can share how it feels, does it feel small and cramped without a landing? I would gladly receive inspirational images of similar staircases!
According to various staircase formulas, a U-shaped staircase without a landing just fits with 14 steps and a 510cm footprint with 165cm in depth, but with a landing, 250cm in depth would be needed (which I don't have).
The question now is if anyone has any better ideas than these standard formulas? Does anyone have a similar staircase and can share how it feels, does it feel small and cramped without a landing? I would gladly receive inspirational images of similar staircases!
No staircase experts or enthusiasts who can provide some insights?
I received a reply from a staircase carpentry that it would work well with a U-shaped staircase without a landing with 165 depth, but they did not answer the question about whether it was possible to do something smart to achieve a landing.
I might have to realize that it's not possible, but it would be a shame...
I received a reply from a staircase carpentry that it would work well with a U-shaped staircase without a landing with 165 depth, but they did not answer the question about whether it was possible to do something smart to achieve a landing.
I might have to realize that it's not possible, but it would be a shame...
With those measurements, it's not possible to have a landing on the way up; it might work with two 125 mm planks, and what would that give? A steeper staircase and a tight space to round the railing. Not worth considering. Trust those who make stairs and have experience with these.
You're absolutely right, of course! I was considering sacrificing, say 60cm, of the closet behind the stairs to make it 60cm deeper and maybe fit a landing, but I realize that it's a bad sacrifice. It will have to be a more standard U-shaped staircase without a landing, simply.
Thank you for talking some sense into me ;-)
Thank you for talking some sense into me ;-)
Something to consider. All U or L-shaped staircases will squeak/creak in a few years. You should make sure you have a post in the bend/circle on the outside and that it is screwed into the outer stringer. It should stand on the floor and go up to the railing. It's good to anchor the railing to it so it doesn't sway. Preferably also in the corner under the stringer. I myself have an L-staircase and placed a post + underneath in the corner. I split two 45X95, planed and glued them together. It doesn't squeak or creak even with two people on it now, after 20 years.
Super good tips! If I understand you correctly, by rundeln you mean going around the post when you go up the U-staircase? If you attach the railing, then you need to cover half of the staircase (the half before the turn from below) on the upper floor, but maybe you want to do that to get more floor space on the upper floor instead of having the entire staircase open upwards?
There is always a small fold, even if the staircase is round and U-shaped, that's where the post is supposed to be + maybe a support between the stringer and the floor on the inside edge. I have seen and walked in many L or U-shaped staircases and they creak/squeak, sometimes even waking others when someone goes up or down the stairs.
I also believe that stringers should have support in the corners of the staircase and not "hang freely," but perhaps not so much for the prevention of creaking, but for stability. If you have a long stringer running along a wall, it can also be good to attach it to the wall so that it doesn't "rub" when the stringer bends a little under load and goes against the wall.
What is worth considering is that risers and treads can creak if you're "unlucky"... we have that problem with a relatively new staircase from a "well-known" supplier. There, the risers are fitted into grooves in the stringers from below and screwed with three screws into the treads, and the installer put silicone in the groove between the riser and tread. It worked for a while, but the creaking has increased over time.
What I read afterward was that "in the old days" the risers were made with a slight arch upward and then pressed upward before being attached. According to the article I read, this is supposed to ensure that when you step on the tread and it bends downward, it shouldn't rub against the riser and cause creaking.
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to remove any risers on our staircase (yet) to see if it can help us. It apparently came low on the priority list at home... after finishing the door frames, building planter boxes, and a prettier solution than 2x6s on blocks for a step between the entrance and inner hall...
What is worth considering is that risers and treads can creak if you're "unlucky"... we have that problem with a relatively new staircase from a "well-known" supplier. There, the risers are fitted into grooves in the stringers from below and screwed with three screws into the treads, and the installer put silicone in the groove between the riser and tread. It worked for a while, but the creaking has increased over time.
What I read afterward was that "in the old days" the risers were made with a slight arch upward and then pressed upward before being attached. According to the article I read, this is supposed to ensure that when you step on the tread and it bends downward, it shouldn't rub against the riser and cause creaking.
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to remove any risers on our staircase (yet) to see if it can help us. It apparently came low on the priority list at home... after finishing the door frames, building planter boxes, and a prettier solution than 2x6s on blocks for a step between the entrance and inner hall...