Probably did something stupid! Possibly "forgot" to brace trusses...
You are probably all right. What I noticed was that the ceiling formed a u-shape where the lowest part had sunk around 1.5cm compared to before. The reason I know it wasn't like that from the beginning is because the moldings would either have been under tension or deformed, which they weren't.
Since the underside of the ungypused side (dining room) consists of some thin tongue and groove with masonite on it, I assumed it was the support beam on the trusses that had sunk as I couldn't see any obvious deformations in the attic.
If it's as you suggest, one would be happy. Then a smaller laminated wood beam would be enough to support only the load of the ceiling, which would be appreciated!!
Since the underside of the ungypused side (dining room) consists of some thin tongue and groove with masonite on it, I assumed it was the support beam on the trusses that had sunk as I couldn't see any obvious deformations in the attic.
If it's as you suggest, one would be happy. Then a smaller laminated wood beam would be enough to support only the load of the ceiling, which would be appreciated!!
New problem but also a new idea after skimming the forum.
Was looking at using an HEA beam on 90x90 posts placed on the heart wall of concrete blocks in the basement. Unfortunately, one of the posts ends up right over an arch in the heart wall, which feels tricky to divert onto...
But after skimming a bit here on the forum, it appears there are two additional alternative routes to try.
Alternative #1 would be to reinforce the bottom chord of the truss with a board of the same dimension using nails, screws, or screw glue. Even if I can't reinforce the entire length (due to braces), I should still be able to reinforce a stretch of 2.5-3m centrally, which, in addition to stiffening up, should also reinforce the joint I suspect is in the middle. (I'll dig up and check tomorrow to see how it looks). Regardless of the joint, such a measure should significantly stiffen the truss. Or??
A consideration is whether the best choice for such a measure is to use a board of the same dimension or a sawn strip of the thickest construction plywood (P30) I can get (27mm or 2x12mm that are screw-glued and then screwed into the existing board? The disadvantage with the plywood is the maximum length of 2400mm if you want to avoid joints...
Also, whether to attach one on both sides of the bottom chord or just one side?
Alternative #2, to maneuver a glued laminated beam 90 x 315 x 6000 (with a bit of luck) through the attic window (40 x 50 in size), lay it across the bottom chords with support on the outer wall on one end and over the wall corresponding to the one I removed on the other end. Then attach the bottom chords with collar ties, suspension hangers, or similar fittings to the glued laminated beam.
This alternative feels like it can be varied a bit with, for example, two glued laminated beams of a slightly smaller dimension placed parallel instead of one large one, or two smaller ones stacked on each other and joined with nailing plates if the window prevents bringing up larger dimensions.
The downside I spontaneously feel with alternative #2 is that I'm very uncertain about the load distribution in the outer wall, which is hardly designed for this purpose!
Feedback on these two alternatives is, as always, greatly appreciated.
//Henrik
Was looking at using an HEA beam on 90x90 posts placed on the heart wall of concrete blocks in the basement. Unfortunately, one of the posts ends up right over an arch in the heart wall, which feels tricky to divert onto...
But after skimming a bit here on the forum, it appears there are two additional alternative routes to try.
Alternative #1 would be to reinforce the bottom chord of the truss with a board of the same dimension using nails, screws, or screw glue. Even if I can't reinforce the entire length (due to braces), I should still be able to reinforce a stretch of 2.5-3m centrally, which, in addition to stiffening up, should also reinforce the joint I suspect is in the middle. (I'll dig up and check tomorrow to see how it looks). Regardless of the joint, such a measure should significantly stiffen the truss. Or??
A consideration is whether the best choice for such a measure is to use a board of the same dimension or a sawn strip of the thickest construction plywood (P30) I can get (27mm or 2x12mm that are screw-glued and then screwed into the existing board? The disadvantage with the plywood is the maximum length of 2400mm if you want to avoid joints...
Also, whether to attach one on both sides of the bottom chord or just one side?
Alternative #2, to maneuver a glued laminated beam 90 x 315 x 6000 (with a bit of luck) through the attic window (40 x 50 in size), lay it across the bottom chords with support on the outer wall on one end and over the wall corresponding to the one I removed on the other end. Then attach the bottom chords with collar ties, suspension hangers, or similar fittings to the glued laminated beam.
This alternative feels like it can be varied a bit with, for example, two glued laminated beams of a slightly smaller dimension placed parallel instead of one large one, or two smaller ones stacked on each other and joined with nailing plates if the window prevents bringing up larger dimensions.
The downside I spontaneously feel with alternative #2 is that I'm very uncertain about the load distribution in the outer wall, which is hardly designed for this purpose!
Feedback on these two alternatives is, as always, greatly appreciated.
//Henrik
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