Building Materials and Construction Technology
Gutte: If you're going to spackle in gv, it's probably easiest to use self-leveling compound. Hand spackling is probably not ideal. It's hard to get it even.
Butcher: That's how I'm supposed to do it and it's completely OK. The difference is that yours is likely exposed to more moisture (due to the basement), but it should be perfect with that system then. At least that's what I understand. I saw a question on ViiVilla about it (typical that I can't find it again) but try searching for it. The risk if you lay foam plastic is otherwise that you get moisture in
Bozz50: Can only confirm that Flex renovation mill is the right one. I have done 35m2 of basement wall down to the concrete hollow blocks. It creates an incredible amount of dust. A construction vacuum cleaner is a must. But it turns out well afterwards. It also removes some unevenness. It took one day to complete. Then I slept well :D.
frebor: We installed styrofoam moldings on the ceiling and then painted them with regular ceiling paint. Very good result. Completely indistinguishable from painted wooden moldings. But as mentioned, the prerequisite is to paint with ceiling paint; otherwise, they just look plastic. /Fredrik, Uppsala
mattiasp: Additionally, one might wonder if consideration has been given to the fact that the beam is already bearing a load in the form of the roof?
David: Since the search function no longer works, I used Google to search the forum. Found this thread: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=42838 Best regards, David
Bozz50: Find this link if anyone is interested: http://www.cchoganas.se/uploaded/document/2002/6/13/mont_v1.pdf
yonna: Several factors come into play when it comes to basements; the age of the house, the depth of the basement below ground level, when was the foundation last drained? If the exterior walls are in such poor condition that they need replastering, there are probably moisture problems. If the plaster has begun to peel due to age, you will likely not find a serious mason who will do the job with a
Larsa: A good method is to dig out a portion and fill with a layer of leca balls. It both insulates and drains. Then lay platonmatting, insulation (ground boards or foam plastic), and floor chipboard. You might consider skipping the insulation and laying the floor chipboard directly on the platonmatting.
zankan: Actually, it is Northern Europe's easiest project... SBF 05 applies as usual... It might take a while if you're not used to constructing roof dormers, which isn't the most common task you'll encounter. This applies to both professionals and DIY enthusiasts. The amount of work is determined by the height and width of the dormer. In your case, the external dimensions will be around 120 cm... You
zankan: CBI has a book on form construction that belongs to the course Concrete Class II where traditional dimensioning of both slab tables and wall/column form is covered... Then there are also the tolerances in BBK which can be accessed via the Boverket's website....
rosebuddy: Hello! We are planning to extend the upper floor by adding a level to an existing extension on the ground floor. We are in contact with an architect and the other day a guy who works with construction planning visited us, checked the site, and expressed willingness to take the job. What should we consider as we move forward? Quality Manager The project manager offers the quality management
ParO: Read this thread, Poxeman has done similar http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=45875
Ante26: ;D ::) :-X Well, what can I say. Better to ask and seem dumb than not ask and remain dumb..... What should one choose........plague or cholera? But the little wall stands where it should without plastic and with blocks in the middle. And haven't used either the angle or eye measurement :P But thanks anyway for your answers. Craftsman there. :) Regards, Ante.
chris47: I had the same problem with my chimney. There are different regulations depending on the type of chimney, and there are also different distance regulations if it is a ventilated space, in which case 3cm is required. In my case, my insulated chimney of the "premodul" brand was 3 cm from the rafter. This was the part of the rafter that supported the outer roof, i.e., the actual roof beam. I was
kongolasse: Hello guys! A vacuum vetil can also be placed in a cold space. Like an attic. http://www.rinkabyror.se/ Search for vacuum vent. Best regards, Lars
Niq: You can stand them on edge and stack bricks or similar around them so they shouldn't warp too much.
daniellindholm: Now I'm answering without a lot of long experience (I've only put up just over 100 drywall sheets), but I wonder what type of ceiling is there now? Can it be screwed into? If not, how closely can you screw it? You don't want the drywall to sag and should probably screw it quite closely. 5-6mm sheets are admittedly lighter, but they are significantly elastic due to moisture. Maybe you can glue
speed: Last time I checked, IKEA's prices were about 20% cheaper in Poland. Just that makes it worth the visit if you're buying kitchens, wardrobes, etc., for an entire house. You can also take the opportunity to fill up the bus with alcohol for a housewarming party ;o)
matte2k: Hello everyone! I would really love to have one like this, or similar: http://www.designtorget.se/content/sv/productdetail.asp?productno=41 However, I think 2200kr is a bit much at the moment, so I'm wondering if it's possible to make one myself. How and where can I get hold of such a metal assembly, or something similar I can use?
valter53: What will you use the space for? How far apart are the rafters? The easiest is to lay a 22 mm chipboard floor. It requires joists at cc 60 cm.
petsor: Does anyone know what HUSAMA says about the tolerances for wall bulging? /Petsor
Paladin: Insulation on the inside is not recommended. The rule of thumb is "always insulate on the cold side." Otherwise, you risk moisture condensation inside the wall. Although it's not a panic situation when you have lightweight concrete blocks, it still feels completely wrong. Instead, place the insulation on the outside. Use mineral wool boards with plaster mesh and a thick plaster system, for
Paladin: Abiträ can create any moldings - even if they are not in the catalog. I have personally had a molding made for an old entrance door with angles and dimensions in all directions. They solved it by getting a sample piece and then adjusting their molding machine. It cost a fortune per meter, but it turned out exactly like before... Good luck!
MathiasS: [citat] Not only fewer splinters, the sheets are significantly lighter as well. Easy to handle on your own. OSB is a bit cumbersome to handle alone.
TN: [citat] Search the forum and you'll find that the topic has been covered before. Basically, a modern slab on the ground is constructed as follows: that is to say concrete insulation (frigolit) washed macadam geotextile fabric