Building Materials and Construction Technology
skogesta: Why not lay OSB first and then put up the plasterboards as usual? Works fine for me.
ikeahantverkaren: is it necessary? ..nail some kottlingar between the load-bearing beams and you'll stiffen it up..I think the weight of the house will take care of the rest unless it's very small, of course. :)
tusv: I have an old summer cottage with three rooms on the ground floor. The floors were directly nailed into beams that lay directly on the ground. No insulation. In two of the rooms, I have excavated and insulated using different techniques. In room 1, I placed about 30-40 cm of leca balls as a capillary break, on top of which I laid fiber-reinforced self-leveling compound about 20mm, insulated the
Anna_Dyring: Don't forget to wet the brick before you start plastering; the plaster won't stick otherwise... Use the water hose and make sure the brick is well wet, otherwise, you risk large chunks coming off when you tap on the plaster... Good luck Regards Anna
kardil: Hello, I am in the process of renovating our chimney breast (brick wall) which is supposed to decorate the wall behind our cast iron stove. We have just plastered the flue, so now we just need to sort out the wall behind the stove so that the chimney sweep is satisfied and we avoid a fire ;-) I think I started a little wrong (I've read up afterwards and realized this), so now I need advice on how
Badger: Normally, no. But light is not a "stove" :-?. So it works, but with some disadvantages. You can't make it so solid, you have loooong curing time, etc. So you'll get better results and faster if you fix some fine concrete instead.
Goggen: Install furring strips horizontally across the entire wall (one at the top, one at the bottom, and a few in between) and nail the wainscoting into it. You can attach the furring strips to the wooden studs with nails and to the plaster with plugs/screws or nail plugs.
Ubbe: Sawing is best done when the timber is freshly cut. Drying is done to 8-18% depending on the intended use. The moisture content in the timber will eventually adjust to the environment regardless of what the moisture content was when it left the dryer. It is true that unplaned timber can have some "shape problems," but usually, it is not a major issue. However, according to earlier posts in the
henrikgbg: Thank you for the tip and I can definitely agree that the actual nailing becomes much more fun and easier. Henrik
tommiz: If I understood you correctly, you have a layer of horizontal planks on the outside of the studs. This layer secures your studs and together they form a stable wall. As I see it, you can freely choose what you want to clad the inside with without worrying about load-bearing capacity. It is admittedly difficult to form a completely clear picture without images and an idea of what load the wall is
Fein: There is also a good article in the latest Gör så här www.gorsahar.se
cpalm: [citat] No, there should be special so-called frame studs (in significantly thicker metal) for it to be stable enough. /C
Bricky: [citat] Yes, you can probably handle it yourself/with a little help. A construction engineer will give you a drawing with everything you need to know. Then some props and a little common sense, and provided the thumb isn't in the wrong place, it should go just fine. :)
hempularen: It should pose the same risk of damage to the wall as pulling directly on the screw.
JensEriksson: Maxit 135 (Putsbruk C hand) Very smooth and easy mortar to work with. Easy to achieve a fine-grained surface.
JensEriksson: The easiest way is to attach the putsnät. That way it's guaranteed to stay.
saturnus: nothing to overreact about, this with occasional work in asbestos. the vacuum cleaner tip is good, as well as wet newspapers. from what I understand of the plate size it should be 6-8 mm thick and no problem to cut the hole with the jigsaw. I assume it is also painted, which is a plus for the work.
Snigel: I've got the idea to build a sort of extra wall where we can store a spring core. My idea is somewhat similar to what was done on Äntligen hemma a while back, where they built something that included a stereo, among other things. Unfortunately, I can't find anything about it online (either they don't post everything, or I'm searching poorly, or perhaps it wasn't on Äntligen hemma.... there are
Mats: It is exactly there that I have negative experiences unless we are talking about really large stacks of stones that are laid over several years. It is also possible to make concrete floating elements relatively cheaply. If you're really lucky, you can get hold of old logging pontoons. 12 meters long and 40-60 cm in diameter. Then you get the base for a large bridge right away.
Eld: If you cover with plastic and 10cm insulation, you can withstand many degrees below zero. I myself poured a 10cm thick slab a couple of years ago, covered it with plastic, 10cm insulation, and a tarpaulin. The following night it was -8 degrees; I checked the temperature under the insulation, and it was +25.
PetterB: Planning to build a deck on a beach (about 7x13m) with a sauna and storage building of about 27 sqm on top. The question now is how to construct the foundation for the bearing beams. The beach is sandy with clay about 1m down and a long way to bedrock (>10m). It's shallow but sometimes the saltwater rises under the deck. No special waves though, it's quite protected. It's difficult (and
Fixtrix: http://www.bokus.com/cgi-bin/book_search.cgi?FAST=staket&FAST_VALUE=TITLE&x=19&y=12
poiu: I've read that galvanized and concrete are not supposed to be a good combination. When I removed a form (which had been left standing for three months), it looked like the galvanization on the angle iron in contact with the concrete had been attacked. What is strange is that galvanized reinforcement is used for block walls. Can someone clarify this for me?
synpunkter: During my complete renovation (pipe replacement, bathroom, etc.) I used double layers of kraft paper to protect a beautiful old parquet floor. In the worst walkways where I carried out demolition debris, I placed masonite boards over the kraft paper.
synpunkter: I think it's obvious to sand the floor last, or second to last, I mean. The last thing you do is install baseboards or paint the baseboards if you keep the existing ones.
snuttjulle: I guess the chimney sweep might have opinions that you need a platform, but being so picky that he can't just make a note of it and push the pipe anyway sounds a bit drastic. It depends a bit on whether it's a completely new chimney or an old one that's just been fixed. Mine has been there for 50+ years and the whole neighborhood has the same construction. So if they were to require a platform at
saidlasf: Hello A tip is to get quotes. Otherwise, it can easily lead to unpleasant surprises. It sounds so good when you call and ask how much concrete costs, only to see on the invoice what is added. I have experienced that. For example: Basic fee of 1900:- +VAT All prices are EXCLUSIVE of VAT. The price you got over the phone has suddenly increased by about 30%. Said P.S: check carefully what the