I have started the laundry room renovation project in the 50s basement. This weekend I spent grinding down sludge paint/thin plaster/incorrect paint using a Flex renovation grinder. Right now, I'm chipping away at the drain and removing the cove base. I was planning to fully tile the walls (~35m2). The thing is, the concrete hollow blocks are not perfectly laid. Even though the renovation grinder leveled the wall somewhat, I have maybe +-5mm here or there. Not particularly straight. I've tried to survey the market for wall filler but can't make sense of it. I intended for the wall to breathe through the joints, so the filler can't be moisture-sensitive. Which should I choose:
1) MAXIT Vetonit 0-100
2) Finja väggrot
3) ARDEX AM 100
Since it's quite large, the filler might end up more expensive than the lime..., are there alternatives? Do I have to fill? If I must; can these products be applied broadly using the same technique as with sand filler? It seems to dry quickly...? Practical tips are desired. Has anyone done something similar perhaps?
1) MAXIT Vetonit 0-100
2) Finja väggrot
3) ARDEX AM 100
Since it's quite large, the filler might end up more expensive than the lime..., are there alternatives? Do I have to fill? If I must; can these products be applied broadly using the same technique as with sand filler? It seems to dry quickly...? Practical tips are desired. Has anyone done something similar perhaps?
Is there nobody who knows how to do this? Maybe I was unclear, but it's mainly tips on how to get it as smooth as possible that I'm after. Secondly, which product is preferable. As well as possible alternatives to 1), 2), and 3)
If someone tells me where the "Attach" button is to upload pictures, you can see the cleaned-out laundry room (if anyone wants to see the mess).
If someone tells me where the "Attach" button is to upload pictures, you can see the cleaned-out laundry room (if anyone wants to see the mess).
That feature isn't enabled for all sections yet. You'll have to link to a website where you have your pictures, for a while longer.Boussard said:
Can't you call the different manufacturers and hear what they say? I don't dare to advise myself.
I'll try. The main rule is that you should not apply a "stronger" mortar than what is already there. For example, if you have an old lime-plastered basement, you should not apply a stronger mortar, like kc-mortar. If you've already milled down to the concrete hollow block, I would use a regular kc-mortar for hand plastering, such as Maxit's Putsbruk B Hand SERPO 133. Mur o Putsbruk B SERPO 222. It's the classic and inexpensive way. It may require some skill, but it's manageable. Check the brochures on plastering that Maxit and Finja have. Possibly, products like Ventonit are easier to work with, but I've never tried them, so I wouldn't know. Otherwise, call Maxit's support—they're great.
It is completely ground down to the concrete hollow block; I think it was some type of coated cement-lime paint (rough brushed patterns on the wall). This thin plaster (?) weathered worst at the joints of the concrete hollow blocks. But now everything is gone, and it's a solid and hard surface.
You should buy a bag of each and try. What speaks for cement-lime plaster should be that you have a little more time. I've made some really clumsy attempts at plastering; often more plaster ends up on the floor than on the wall, then when I go over it with a float, there's nothing left on the wall >
So cement-lime mortar works as a filler then? I'm going to tile afterwards.
Another question is about primer. Is the primer diffusion-open? If you want to prime before plastering/filling, you don't want it to block the moisture transfer I'm aiming for.
You should buy a bag of each and try. What speaks for cement-lime plaster should be that you have a little more time. I've made some really clumsy attempts at plastering; often more plaster ends up on the floor than on the wall, then when I go over it with a float, there's nothing left on the wall >
So cement-lime mortar works as a filler then? I'm going to tile afterwards.
Another question is about primer. Is the primer diffusion-open? If you want to prime before plastering/filling, you don't want it to block the moisture transfer I'm aiming for.
One does not prime before plastering! If plastering on bone-dry and loose surfaces, it tends to fall offBoussard said:
. If it's a concrete surface, it's common to first coat it with a watery mortar so the plaster adheres better to the coated surface.I'm going to do the same job in my laundry room and I'm actually considering tiling directly onto a new fresh layer of plaster (once the first leveling layer has cured) that I use instead of tile adhesive/tile glue. Currently, there are tiles from the 80s that are coming off, and the grout is crumbling on the exterior wall :'(.
I don't know if it will work :-/. The only risk I can see is that the tiles might not lay perfectly even, but managing moisture migration might be easier? Anyway, I don't want too many different material layers under the tiles on an exterior basement wall.
gaia
That sounds like a sensible idea, gaia. As information, I can tell you that I have tiles in my basement garage with tiles around the walls up to the knees, and tiles on the floor. Everything is original from 1958 and not a single tile has fallen down!!! Those tiles were probably set with plaster, protruding 5mm from the concrete hole stone.
Is it even some kind of building preservation not to smear fast-drying modern stuff in an old basement but use traditional materials?
Is there anyone who knows a retired bricklayer who can tell how they set tiles in basements in the past? My guess is that they did as you describe, gaia.
Anything else? Does anyone have more opinions/tips?
Is it even some kind of building preservation not to smear fast-drying modern stuff in an old basement but use traditional materials?
Is there anyone who knows a retired bricklayer who can tell how they set tiles in basements in the past? My guess is that they did as you describe, gaia.
Anything else? Does anyone have more opinions/tips?
Find this link if anyone is interested: http://www.cchoganas.se/uploaded/document/2002/6/13/mont_v1.pdf