Don't get me wrong now, Leif, but "what are you talking about"?Leif... said:
Who was your post intended for?A tower doesn't have to be very expensive if you're very handy
You can probably build the tower itself with a little help, but you might need to hire someone for all the extremely annoying sheet metal work. It doesn't have to take an enormous number of hours, but it depends on how nice you want it to look. Personally, I greatly appreciate all the fine sheet metal work. The roof on the tower might cost quite a bit because it can be done from simple to very, very advanced.
Otherwise, there probably aren't any major costs. One must also consider that it's actually very difficult to make it completely tight between the house and the tower.
You can probably build the tower itself with a little help, but you might need to hire someone for all the extremely annoying sheet metal work. It doesn't have to take an enormous number of hours, but it depends on how nice you want it to look. Personally, I greatly appreciate all the fine sheet metal work. The roof on the tower might cost quite a bit because it can be done from simple to very, very advanced.
Otherwise, there probably aren't any major costs. One must also consider that it's actually very difficult to make it completely tight between the house and the tower.
Actually, the price difference between tall narrow and standard isn't that big. Adding muntins is also just a matter of barely hundreds of kronor per window.
To Leif, I can tell you that the windows on the front, the ones you're showing, are already 11*13, which means they are 1.1 meters wide and 1.3 meters high. In other words, they are considerably taller than standard windows. This works on the inside because the ceiling height is 2.7 m. To answer a question that might be asked, YES, the door is 2.3 meters high.
A question I have for you, Leif, is "What have you done with parts of my façade?".
To Leif, I can tell you that the windows on the front, the ones you're showing, are already 11*13, which means they are 1.1 meters wide and 1.3 meters high. In other words, they are considerably taller than standard windows. This works on the inside because the ceiling height is 2.7 m. To answer a question that might be asked, YES, the door is 2.3 meters high.
A question I have for you, Leif, is "What have you done with parts of my façade?".
Lou: Then it's settled. Of course, you should have a tower! What really costs are the windows (although we have single-pane windows - meaning it's not a winter place) and sheet metal work. We actually never use the tower. Very rarely, although it might be more now as it starts to be finished. It does look exceedingly nice from the outside. That's probably what made me fall head over heels for this house (besides the fantastic location).
Leif: The fact that the windows are not lower on the front side is because on the left side of the entrance, there is the kitchen with its kitchen counters that are right against the wall where the windows are. This means that you can't let the windows go down too low as they would go down behind the kitchen counter. On the right side, there is the laundry room with its counter once again. The backside is a different matter; there, the windows are also lower than those on the front side. Equally wide but lower, giving the appearance you're asking for. But if you want to be practical, it doesn't work on the front side.
Lou: If you're going to build a tower, do it properly. Since you like towers, you probably enjoy being in them as well. A tower, or something that looks like a tower, doesn't necessarily have to cost much extra. Sure, it adds a couple of extra windows, but otherwise not much in terms of wood cost. What can be expensive is the roof for the tower, I would estimate around 75-100 grand.
Lou: If you're going to build a tower, do it properly. Since you like towers, you probably enjoy being in them as well. A tower, or something that looks like a tower, doesn't necessarily have to cost much extra. Sure, it adds a couple of extra windows, but otherwise not much in terms of wood cost. What can be expensive is the roof for the tower, I would estimate around 75-100 grand.
Tip1: If you want to build with a bit of "style," you should probably choose fixed panes instead of loose muntins. The cost is higher, but it looks more expensive and more old-fashioned. We made this choice and are very satisfied. Not as difficult to clean the windows as one might think. Loose muntins may wear out after 10-15 years, plastic clips that crack, etc.
Tip2: Letting the window go down 1-2dm below the countertop is simply beautiful. Look at how it is in old houses. You can't let the exterior suffer for such a trifle. We were forced to do this in both the laundry and kitchen, and we are very pleased. It makes a nice flower box with the recessed surface.
/Thrax
Tip2: Letting the window go down 1-2dm below the countertop is simply beautiful. Look at how it is in old houses. You can't let the exterior suffer for such a trifle. We were forced to do this in both the laundry and kitchen, and we are very pleased. It makes a nice flower box with the recessed surface.
/Thrax
It's perfectly fine to mix brick and metal. If you have brick on the roof, you can have metal on dormers or the like.
Fixed or removable muntins are really a detail you choose for yourself. From 20 meters away, you can't tell the difference between the two, another option is to have the muntins between the glass panes, which makes washing an easy task and nothing wears out.
Having the "flower box" mentioned is also a matter of personal taste, some like it and others don't. If you have side-hung windows, it's not as easy to open with the "flower box" mentioned. If you also have extra deep countertops in the kitchen, it becomes even more difficult.
Fixed or removable muntins are really a detail you choose for yourself. From 20 meters away, you can't tell the difference between the two, another option is to have the muntins between the glass panes, which makes washing an easy task and nothing wears out.
Having the "flower box" mentioned is also a matter of personal taste, some like it and others don't. If you have side-hung windows, it's not as easy to open with the "flower box" mentioned. If you also have extra deep countertops in the kitchen, it becomes even more difficult.
We have a slab and one room has a wooden floor (real planks). However, there is an air gap between the slab and the wooden floor. Maybe that's how it’s usually done when there is underfloor heating? In any case, the underfloor heating doesn't work very well precisely because of this air gap.
We have 34mm tongue and groove wooden flooring directly on the slab.
Only plastic and felt paper in between.
The floor is floating.
We'll have to redo the kitchen because a board has warped severely in the wrong direction, causing the floor to lift locally.
Wood provides an insulating effect, not good during weather changes, I think?
Because then it becomes harder for the heat to come through.
We have quite an open plan and tiles in the hall, bathroom, laundry, office.
Haven't noticed any problems yet.
/Thrax
Only plastic and felt paper in between.
The floor is floating.
We'll have to redo the kitchen because a board has warped severely in the wrong direction, causing the floor to lift locally.
Wood provides an insulating effect, not good during weather changes, I think?
Because then it becomes harder for the heat to come through.
We have quite an open plan and tiles in the hall, bathroom, laundry, office.
Haven't noticed any problems yet.
/Thrax
thrax: I'm actually considering redoing it that way. But as you say, if the timber starts to warp, it can lift locally. However, I believe more in that solution since it removes the air gap between the concrete and the underfloor heating and the floorboards. Air insulates fantastically well, so laying floating should be much better from a heat perspective. I thought of leveling a bit with self-leveling compound and then laying floating on plastic and paper.