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29 replies
Damp barrier here or there?
But then you need screws that are 13 mm longer than initially planned.
And how's the nailing going?
The cabin will be heated "now and then."
We haven't quite decided how it will be used yet.
Maybe the moisture barrier doesn't matter then?
The cabin was built in 1906 and the outermost insulation layer is packed sawdust.
And how's the nailing going?
The cabin will be heated "now and then."
We haven't quite decided how it will be used yet.
Maybe the moisture barrier doesn't matter then?
The cabin was built in 1906 and the outermost insulation layer is packed sawdust.
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 545 posts
DO NOT USE A MOISTURE BARRIER
Partly because you have an air gap inside the wall where strange things can happen...
and partly because you have an old wood fiber insulated wall, and on top of that, you will only heat it occasionally...
Let the air in the room circulate in the air gap through a 2cm gap at the top and bottom...
And if you're seeking soundproofing, about 25% of the wall in the room should consist of holes and the insulation should be "staple fiber"
Partly because you have an air gap inside the wall where strange things can happen...
Let the air in the room circulate in the air gap through a 2cm gap at the top and bottom...
And if you're seeking soundproofing, about 25% of the wall in the room should consist of holes and the insulation should be "staple fiber"
When I hear the word moisture barrier, I immediately think of bathrooms. You don't throw water in the bedroom, right?! Vapor barrier sounds better to me. But maybe I'm wrong?! 
/Lars
/Lars
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 545 posts
Vapor or diffusion barrier are better terms, but since moisture barrier was used in the thread, I continued with the same term... 
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 545 posts
Staple fiber is used if you make holes in the walls, otherwise, you can use regular heavy mineral wool.
Here is a link to a staple fiber board:
http://www.paroc.se/channels/se/bui...00. Ljudisolering&product_id=PAROC+NRS+2t
Here is a link to a staple fiber board:
http://www.paroc.se/channels/se/bui...00. Ljudisolering&product_id=PAROC+NRS+2t
OK, but that doesn't say anything about how many dB I get out of the likely higher cost it entails.
And...isn't steam a subset of the concept of moisture?
So, shouldn't you always be able to use the word moisture barrier but only vapor barrier sometimes?
And...isn't steam a subset of the concept of moisture?
So, shouldn't you always be able to use the word moisture barrier but only vapor barrier sometimes?
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 545 posts
It is as "kongolasse" writes, the term moisture barrier is used when talking about the layer applied under tiles in bathrooms. The plastic film in a wall or ceiling is referred to as a vapor/diffusion barrier. If we use a designation for different things, misunderstandings can easily occur... like in this thread... since you weren't entirely clear with the conditions, you received a bunch of advice and tips that were incorrect because those who wrote responses assumed a traditional stud wall. But discussing is fun, so as long as it ends up right in the end... I can't calculate acoustics... and I don't know if you want to dampen the sound so that the neighbors don't hear, or if you're building a recording studio where you don't want any echo... but if you inform us, we'll try to answer—to the best of our ability!!! 
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 545 posts
SORRY!
My inattentiveness!!!
Since you have an uninsulated loft, you probably shouldn't take any larger or more unusual measures than necessary/normal, as you have a large sound leakage through the loft above...
I would have... framed, insulated, put up OSB, and then plasterboarded. It works perfectly to attach through the plasterboard and into the OSB.
And the plasterboard is easier to fill/treat/repair than other boards.
My inattentiveness!!!
Since you have an uninsulated loft, you probably shouldn't take any larger or more unusual measures than necessary/normal, as you have a large sound leakage through the loft above...
I would have... framed, insulated, put up OSB, and then plasterboarded. It works perfectly to attach through the plasterboard and into the OSB.
And the plasterboard is easier to fill/treat/repair than other boards.
OK, but the fact is that I have cleared the space under the loft, i.e., the joists where I will insulate (previously a thin layer of sawdust). So I have the opportunity to block the sound flow from above as well. Planning to have plaster there (+ possibly an additional layer of plaster) and underneath, thick planks for aesthetic purposes (old style).
Sorry for my curiosity, but what will you have in the room?
Is it a bedroom or do you live near Arlanda?
/Lars
Is it a bedroom or do you live near Arlanda?
/Lars
I live 15 meters from the railway, it was a bit tough in the beginning but now it feels nice :
to have some movement around, it will probably feel strange soon when I install new windows!
But it's clear that if your closest neighbor is the Control Tower2
Arlandagatan 1
E4E4 18 MOTORWAY
Then you understand, but I, living so damn close to the railway, don't find the indoor noise that troublesome, it's more exhausting in the summer when you're outside all the time
, that noise is not so easy to protect against, but as I said.....you get used to it.
And please, take the plasterboard facing the room, you can't let a few screws decide, unless you're using the room as a bulletin board
But it's clear that if your closest neighbor is the Control Tower2
Arlandagatan 1
E4E4 18 MOTORWAY
Then you understand, but I, living so damn close to the railway, don't find the indoor noise that troublesome, it's more exhausting in the summer when you're outside all the time
And please, take the plasterboard facing the room, you can't let a few screws decide, unless you're using the room as a bulletin board
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