Hello!
I am currently building a sunroom on a concrete slab.
The roof is made of 16mm polycarbonate with an insulation value of 2.0.
The sliding doors have an insulation value of 3.9.
Since I live in a townhouse, I must use double gypsum boards against the neighbors for the walls... (fire protection)
My question is whether it's worth insulating the walls with the information above, or if it would be throwing money away.
My gut feeling tells me it's worth doing it
My theory is that if you sit outside on an autumn evening and want to warm up the room a bit with an alternative heat source, the heat stays a little longer than if you were without... (even though the doors aren't very insulating)
I imagine it should also soundproof a bit.
I would appreciate an answer.
Best regards,
Eklundh
I am currently building a sunroom on a concrete slab.
The roof is made of 16mm polycarbonate with an insulation value of 2.0.
The sliding doors have an insulation value of 3.9.
Since I live in a townhouse, I must use double gypsum boards against the neighbors for the walls... (fire protection)
My question is whether it's worth insulating the walls with the information above, or if it would be throwing money away.
My gut feeling tells me it's worth doing it
My theory is that if you sit outside on an autumn evening and want to warm up the room a bit with an alternative heat source, the heat stays a little longer than if you were without... (even though the doors aren't very insulating)
I imagine it should also soundproof a bit.
I would appreciate an answer.
Best regards,
Eklundh
Hey...
It depends on how early and late in the year you want to be out
A rough estimate...
An uninsulated 2+2 drywall has about 1.8 in U-value
And insulated with 95mm mineral wool insulation is about 0.45
If you have 10 square meters of such a wall and a 15-degree difference between inside and outside, it means you would need:
1.8*10*15=270W - uninsulated
0.45*10*15=67.5W - insulated
That is, 270W power from your heat source to maintain the temperature in the room if you have 10 sqm of uninsulated wall compared to 67W with insulated (if it's a 15-degree difference between outside and inside).
Other walls/doors and the ceiling will probably account for the majority of the heat loss:
10 sqm of sliding doors at a 15-degree difference - 585W
10 sqm of the ceiling at a 15-degree difference - 300W
It might feel like a big difference between insulated and uninsulated walls, but I'm assuming your sliding doors and ceiling together are a significantly larger area than the wall(?). With some leaks and other factors, maybe the wall's insulation doesn't make much of a difference to the entire construction.
If you want to use the daytime warmth, the concrete slab is a good start to keep the heat into the evening. One way to increase heat retention is to have a masonry wall instead....
So how often and at what outdoor temperatures do you plan to sit in the conservatory?
And while you're at it, maybe it's just as well to put in some insulation?
It gives a bit more soundproofing, and it's always nice not to hear the neighbor's kids.
/pelle
It depends on how early and late in the year you want to be out
A rough estimate...
An uninsulated 2+2 drywall has about 1.8 in U-value
And insulated with 95mm mineral wool insulation is about 0.45
If you have 10 square meters of such a wall and a 15-degree difference between inside and outside, it means you would need:
1.8*10*15=270W - uninsulated
0.45*10*15=67.5W - insulated
That is, 270W power from your heat source to maintain the temperature in the room if you have 10 sqm of uninsulated wall compared to 67W with insulated (if it's a 15-degree difference between outside and inside).
Other walls/doors and the ceiling will probably account for the majority of the heat loss:
10 sqm of sliding doors at a 15-degree difference - 585W
10 sqm of the ceiling at a 15-degree difference - 300W
It might feel like a big difference between insulated and uninsulated walls, but I'm assuming your sliding doors and ceiling together are a significantly larger area than the wall(?). With some leaks and other factors, maybe the wall's insulation doesn't make much of a difference to the entire construction.
If you want to use the daytime warmth, the concrete slab is a good start to keep the heat into the evening. One way to increase heat retention is to have a masonry wall instead....
So how often and at what outdoor temperatures do you plan to sit in the conservatory?
And while you're at it, maybe it's just as well to put in some insulation?
It gives a bit more soundproofing, and it's always nice not to hear the neighbor's kids.
/pelle
Thank you for the nice response...
As it stands right now, the walls will be uninsulated. The neighbor's children most likely won't make much noise since the people living there are in their 45s. Their children have long since flown the coop.
Those who are responsible for the noise nowadays (for the past 6 months) are we and our son...
Best regards
Eklundh
As it stands right now, the walls will be uninsulated. The neighbor's children most likely won't make much noise since the people living there are in their 45s. Their children have long since flown the coop.
Those who are responsible for the noise nowadays (for the past 6 months) are we and our son...
Best regards
Eklundh
I see that you're considering using double gypsum boards for fire protection. I would probably avoid using gypsum in the sunroom due to high humidity at certain times of the year. Gypsum doesn't like moisture.
Are there no other alternative fire protections?
/Funkis
Ps I know it's not related to your question, but I hope comments are welcome anyway
Are there no other alternative fire protections?
/Funkis
Ps I know it's not related to your question, but I hope comments are welcome anyway
Hello!
The dilemma I have is that the wall will temporarily be only about 10-11 cm thick. This is with double plasterboards and paneling.
I bought a complete conservatory at Willab for an extended summer, and it comes with studs for the wall that are only 4.5cmx4.5cm. I spoke with a friend who works full-time as a firefighter and carpenter in his spare time, and he looked into it for me.
Double plasterboard and an air gap were what he recommended. If you had a thicker stud, it could be solved differently.
Unfortunately, you can get ten different answers from ten different craftsmen
The dilemma I have is that the wall will temporarily be only about 10-11 cm thick. This is with double plasterboards and paneling.
I bought a complete conservatory at Willab for an extended summer, and it comes with studs for the wall that are only 4.5cmx4.5cm. I spoke with a friend who works full-time as a firefighter and carpenter in his spare time, and he looked into it for me.
Double plasterboard and an air gap were what he recommended. If you had a thicker stud, it could be solved differently.
Unfortunately, you can get ten different answers from ten different craftsmen