I'm quite tired of almost all Swedish small houses having clapboard siding. For the more modern streamlined architecture of newly built small houses, a smoother façade fits better, which is why they go so well with a plastered façade.
Now I'm considering if it wouldn't be quite stylish with vertical tongue-and-groove boards. This would create a smoother impression with just a small gap between each board.
My question is if there are suitable boards available for this purpose? 13x95 raw tongue-and-groove isn't suitable for the façade. Are there tongue-and-groove 22x120?
Another consideration is whether there is a risk that the tongues and grooves will crack.
Some old houses are built with tongue-and-groove 2x5 inch boards, but that's a bit overkill for use as façade boards.
I have also thought about using ordinary un-grooved boards edge to edge, similar to a barn. There probably needs to be a couple of mm gap for the wood's movement, and then there's a risk of moisture getting in if there's driving rain on the wall. If you have exterior gypsum or OSB behind the panel, do you think it would get damaged?
Does anyone have any opinions?
Now I'm considering if it wouldn't be quite stylish with vertical tongue-and-groove boards. This would create a smoother impression with just a small gap between each board.
My question is if there are suitable boards available for this purpose? 13x95 raw tongue-and-groove isn't suitable for the façade. Are there tongue-and-groove 22x120?
Another consideration is whether there is a risk that the tongues and grooves will crack.
Some old houses are built with tongue-and-groove 2x5 inch boards, but that's a bit overkill for use as façade boards.
I have also thought about using ordinary un-grooved boards edge to edge, similar to a barn. There probably needs to be a couple of mm gap for the wood's movement, and then there's a risk of moisture getting in if there's driving rain on the wall. If you have exterior gypsum or OSB behind the panel, do you think it would get damaged?
Does anyone have any opinions?
I don't think it will be much fun to get those boards up. and then you have to find ones with a nicely sawn surface.
There is otherwise regular faspanel which is "half-spontad".
/Kent
There is otherwise regular faspanel which is "half-spontad".
/Kent
Yes, moisture comes in because a facade is exposed to weather and wind, that's exactly why caps are used on the lock panel or half-spontat is used. Then a properly installed facade seals itself as the boards or boards/caps move against each other, the annual rings strive to straighten out.
/Kent
/Kent
have seen a house that has tongue-and-groove facade boards, standing on a newly built house, have a picture of the profile if anyone's interested...
Our house has (after the previous owner's façade change) vertical shiplap paneling of a type often called "manor panel." Nice?... maybe, a matter of taste... but since the lumber is apparently cut without much regard to the growth rings, and you can't fix that while building because the panel can only be turned one way, it's quite drafty in some places. Such a façade doesn't have the self-sealing properties that Snickarboden mentioned.
The Z-panel is stylish and preferable, it can be installed both vertically and horizontally. However, I advise against installing any horizontal panels in the long run. I've seen significantly more moisture damage behind horizontal panels than behind vertical ones.
Hey.
Just wanted to send in a little post about "smooth" wooden façade without battens.
Currently in the process of replacing our old and very boring "batten" façade (with slightly modified groove paneling).
We've made a small modification and had 22x145 sawed up (initially considered 22x120, but it was a bit too "thin") in the right lengths with 5mm spacing (instead of about 15mm). This is to achieve a "smooth" impression.
Painted with Alcro Bestå, espresso. Before nailing, it was painted with oil, primer, and a coat of covering paint. No issues with adhesion (considering the layers of paint) or gaps.
Rock on.
Regards,
//Tobben
Informative link: http://www.sodermalmstra.se/websites/webb_filer/filbank/List & Panel.pdf
Just wanted to send in a little post about "smooth" wooden façade without battens.
Currently in the process of replacing our old and very boring "batten" façade (with slightly modified groove paneling).
We've made a small modification and had 22x145 sawed up (initially considered 22x120, but it was a bit too "thin") in the right lengths with 5mm spacing (instead of about 15mm). This is to achieve a "smooth" impression.
Painted with Alcro Bestå, espresso. Before nailing, it was painted with oil, primer, and a coat of covering paint. No issues with adhesion (considering the layers of paint) or gaps.
Rock on.
Regards,
//Tobben
Informative link: http://www.sodermalmstra.se/websites/webb_filer/filbank/List & Panel.pdf
Building an element house with standing tongue and groove, round head nails, and then the green iron vitriol... (Will turn gray within a year)
Really looks cheap...
Really looks cheap...