Urgent help with rendering; what am I doing wrong?

[Bozz50]

Thanks "cpalm" for the grater tips. It's lesson 2 tonight then

The trowel I have is "almost square" and rounded at the front. I've managed to get it good enough so that it sticks quite well and almost where I'm aiming. The main thing is that it sticks, I guess, and is firmly applied with force.

isn't it easier to draw up the mortar with a trowel on the wall, than to throw it on with a trowel? the wall should be somewhat dry on the surface so that it "grabs" the mortar.

I have tried that but must say that throwing it on makes the plaster stick much better. Then the masonry experts (cpalm?) can correct me if I'm wrong, but I assume it's the same rule as in plastering as in masonry that laid stone/plaster stays. What happens with a thick application with trowel/board is that you tend to move the mortar from the pressure point, then you have disturbed/weakened/destroyed the adhesion.

//Boussard

 

[Bricky]

isn't it easier to apply the mortar with a trowel on the wall, rather than slap it on with a scoop. the wall should be somewhat dry on the surface so that it "grips" the mortar.

I have tried it but must say that an application makes the plaster stick much better. Then you skilled masons (cpalm?) can correct me if I'm wrong, but I assume it's the same rule as with plastering as with masonry that laid brick/plaster stays. What happens with a thick application with a trowel/board is that you tend to move the mortar from the point of pressure, thereby disturbing/reducing/destroying the adhesion.

//Boussard[/quote]

Applying the mortar is useless so continue slapping it on. You can wait quite a while before you tear it, just water it thoroughly beforehand.

 

[Bozz50]

Applying the compound is pointless so keep applying it.

The only place I apply the compound is after the deduction lists and right at the bottom by the floor angle. That's where I press the compound with the small trowel.

You can wait quite a while before scraping it, just make sure to wet it properly beforehand.

Well, isn't that something, won't the plaster get ruined if you wet it during scraping? Can you splash it on with the lime brush then?

 

[Bricky]

Pulling on the bruket is worthless so keep hitting it.

The only place I pull on the bruket is after the deduction lists and at the very bottom by the floor angle. That's where I press the bruk with the little cutting trowel.

You can wait quite a while before you drag it, just make sure to water it properly beforehand.

Well darn, won't it get ruined if you wet the plaster when dragging then? Can you splash on with the lime brush then?

"Splash on" might be an exaggeration, but sprinkling/applying water so you see the plaster darkens and the outermost millimeters absorb the water. Then there's no problem working with it. As for how long you can wait, it's impossible to say, it depends on the substrate, how you've primed, if you've watered beforehand, etc. But for a while is fine, you'll have to test and learn as you go.

 

[Skansk_nybyggare]

Interesting thread this. Thanks for all the tips.

 

[Milkshaken]

Yes, this is a bit of a technique...
The mortar should be for regular brick plastering,,, Plastic consistency. (Take a bit of mortar from the mixer, form it into a ball, place the "ball" in your palm, shake gently, the mortar should then kind of sink a little without cracking or running...

For leca, you should water thoroughly beforehand,,, (This also applies to old, old brick)
Plastic consistency but with slightly more water...
What is a good tip for all plastering, if you struggle to get it to stick, yes then you go ahead and slur the wall first.. Sluring+ masonry brush, that is, you brush on a thin layer of sluring, let it dry for a while, and then throw the mortar on with a triangle-shaped rounded trowel. And as mentioned earlier, it is easier if you flick from bottom to top in a snap... Once you've learned it, you can test backhand.... good to master backhand too, for example in left corners....