Building Materials and Construction Technology
Kalarne: One reason might be that this way you can fit more insulation without resorting to Kerto beams that cost a fortune. This is how my engineer has reasoned and complemented 45 mm wide kerto with 45 x 145 regular timber nailed at the outer edge.
BJohan: Flexicol is used for gluing floor gypsum but also for gluing gypsum boards on walls.
Milkshaken: shouldn't really be a problem, but you can always stamp up right next to it BEFORE you start sawing, and then I would probably put up some standing ones like, 95x95 on the sides of the opening that can stay there... possibly you'll have to saw a little wider then.....
PatrikC5: Hello, Today we are going to install the vapor barrier material Halotex D50 against our exterior walls in the vacation house we are building. The question now is which side should be facing inward and outward. This cannot be determined from any instructions either online or on the instruction that came with it. Is there anyone who has used this and knows how it should be oriented?
miata92000: Hello everyone ... I have a house from '48 with an extremely small kitchen, and to enlarge the kitchen, I want to move the entrance. At the same time, I want to expand the new entrance with a porch. This way, you can reach the utility room right away, and we get a proper hall/porch to hang things up in. I am now seeking experiences and ideas on how to go about it. I am looking for drawings,
imported_Byggaren: Here's what a printed strut with an end brace looks like. (You'll have to tilt your head clockwise and look from the left; I don't know why the rotation didn't work on this picture, unlike the bottom one.) [bild] And here is a detail of the upper end brace on the mounting side. [bild] As you can see, the crossbar has cracked at the bottom due to the outer board wanting to move downwards. In case
MathiasS: Adding a net for crack reinforcement is probably not wrong. You probably can't have too much reinforcement. Almost.
79:an: I usually use 2" x 6-8" planks to walk on when I have scaffolding at home, but I usually borrow a haki scaffold. If you're unsure if it will hold, you can build your frame with a shortling and test how much it flexes. If you think it flexes too much, you can just add another. However, don't forget to put up a "fence" so that you or someone else don't take a step too far back...
Watchmen: Mix some slightly moist concrete and place it on the plates, then set the posts. This way, everything stands completely even and stable.
Micke_1: Drill 10mm to the depth you want the threaded rod to protrude, insert the capsule, drive in the threaded rod, twist and move it up and down a few times. //Micke
jon_h: I am planning a special variant to solve the ground floor in my old log cabin. Discussion on this can be found in this thread, for those interested. Overall, there will be a concrete slab on cellular plastic, with a casting of cement-bonded leca closest to the sill timber. This is to achieve decent insulation closest to the sill, and because this casting will be able to follow the unevenness of
JanneSjo: I have trusses on my house with a span of 10m (including about 80cm each side overhang outside the house) 45-degree slope, i.e., 5m high - they came in 2 parts cut just above the collar tie, I believe it's called, and with pre-made nail plates - when you put them together, you were supposed to nail a certain number of nails into the nail plate. Regarding beams, I have a beam in the middle of the
Linus_E: exactly what I meant. the upper part of the road becomes part of the truss as it is attached to the chair itself and the floor joists are lower than the truss itself, making it so that there is nothing to resist from the roof if there are large loads. you can remove it, but you must reinforce it in another way for it to really work as intended... sure, it might work out but just as easily not...
Aniska: If you use clay plaster, there will be no space between and hopefully nowhere for them to run. Insulation that falls apart (not sheets) is good; leca, cellulose fiber, etc.
Bloink: I'm going to spruce up my existing kitchen until I can afford my dream kitchen, and I'm looking for 10x10cm tiles as cheaply as possible, since they will be torn out in about a year anyway. Does anyone know where I can find this, preferably in black or another dark shade? Thank you in advance. Best regards
joakim79: Hello, we have just purchased an H.V.H Björken with an insulated upper floor, we are considering buying chipboard for the inner walls and also something for the ceiling, so that this can be lifted up when the house is assembled. However, we are wondering what we should have for the ceiling, does anyone have any suggestions and possibly pictures? Best regards, Joakim
zachris: Thank you for all the answers - now I believe I have enough information to make a decision on the matter!
Mike77: Thanks for the response. I think I'll take a middle ground, removing about 50%, and then put on the mat, their drainage layer, and separation fabric on top of it. Almost there, then I won't lift a spade again this summer.
JanneSjo: I am also planning to lay decking - at first, I didn't think it would be integrated with the fence if that's what you mean? Do you mean laying decking and then bolting iron into the decking/floor beam and then into the posts? - if you attach the side rails to the wall, it might be stable enough - sort of like a "floating" wooden balcony that rests on top of the sheet metal and is well anchored to
Lindgrenski: We'll tear down the whole wall instead and build a new one. :)
JanneL: It is not necessary to "blast" right next to the house. Go out a bit so you feel safe. If you want to be able to walk in just your socks, the chance increases if you get the drainage under the sole. Imagine standing with your dancing shoes in a puddle where the water covers half the sole. I can assume that sooner or later your feet will get damp. The sole, however, cannot step aside when it gets
prinsallan: Thank you very much. I have at least four places around here that will get to consider it then. Best regards, -Prinsallan
MathiasS: Yesterday, Hornbach also opened in 08-land....! Gigantic of course, together with Bauhaus in Länna it's the largest hardware store in the city. The range is obviously large, although in some areas I missed that little extra that you find in more professional-oriented stores. The plumbing department had really good sorting, here you can do a supplementary purchase for what you forgot to order
Numse: I've heard more people using it. Does it damage the stone, do you think? Is there any other alternative?
Linus_E: would go with option 1 as that is how you install aftermarket dampers on hoods on cars and machines.
daniellindgren: No, it's actually double door trims, on one side 12 mm + 16 mm and on the other side 16 mm + 16 mm. It might look like architraves, but it's door trims that have been split down to 25 mm width. Splitting architraves "in depth" (i.e., so that the trim becomes wedge-shaped) so that the thickness differs by 6 mm over 90 cm is not something I can do ... the latex sealant turned out really well, it
snickar_lasse: Hello! Great that the beams are in place, but there were no AS that you mentioned. When no mobile can reach, and it's about AS, this kind of machine comes into play! Take care and have a nice summer.