Hello!
I'm working on a garage project. Since I find it very enjoyable, I've decided to do as much as I can myself. It's clear that it will be more expensive and take longer, but since it's a hobby, that's okay to some extent. Since I'm a layman in the field, I've had to educate myself by buying books and so on about different tasks.
Now I've encountered a delicate problem. If I had turned to a constructor, this wouldn't have happened, so I hope to bounce ideas with you on how to solve this in the best way.
The garage will be 33 square meters (5.5m * 6m). The height will be 4.85 meters to the ridge. It will have a smaller upper floor and since the span is quite large (5.5m), I've chosen to buy the trusses and have them installed.
So far, I've raised the frame consisting of 45*145 mm studs. From the surrounding gravel to the top of the frame, it is 2.27 m. The total height of the trusses will be 2.58 m. The tie beams in the trusses and floor joists will consist of Kerto beams 45*260 mm.
On the following website, I've made my drawings available. But please note that they are not created by a constructor, so any other use is strongly discouraged. http://sqflqq.blu.livefilestore.com...0pQYhXK7x8joNnEjYjMoxMXFeKTCmvH2A/garage.html
As mentioned, the frame is up and I'm now waiting for the trusses. But I got the following advice from the truss supplier, who has a good reputation:
"I recommend you to insert a 45 x 170 under the wall plates on the long sides where the trusses will lie. If you haven't planned for the trusses to lie where you have a post underneath, then you don't need to insert a support beam under the wall plate."
The only right thing seems to be to do as he says to ensure proper load-bearing capacity, but it feels a bit daunting since the frame is now up.
As I see it, I have the following options.
1) Remove one vertical stud at a time on the long sides and cut out precisely for a horizontal 45*175 along the entire bearer and put it back before moving on to the next. Then install the horizontal 45*175 along the entire side.
2) Remove one vertical stud at a time on the long sides, but only of the pairs of vertical studs that support a truss. Cut out precisely for a horizontal 45*175 and put it back before moving on to the next. Then install the segments of horizontal 45*175 needed.
3) On the website I linked, you can see where the trusses are placed in relation to the vertical studs. For example, "Drawing from above showing the trusses' placement." An idea I had was to move the trusses so they really stand over the vertical studs. The disadvantages I see with this are that it becomes a bit trickier with insulation since they won't be at 1200 mm centers. The major disadvantage is that between some trusses, it exceeds 1200 mm centers, and I don't know if that's terribly dangerous. It seems like the simplest solution.
If you look at the drawings, you'll see that the wall plate consists of a double layer of 45*145, and in some places, three layers such as above windows. My hope was that this would suffice. According to the book "Garageboken," I remember that if a truss falls more than 100 mm from a vertical stud, reinforcement is needed. In my case, I think I have a max 100 mm difference, so I had hoped that my double, sometimes triple, wall plate would solve this. But of course, the example in that book doesn't deal with a garage with an upper floor, so it might be a bit weak after all.
I am extremely grateful for tips and comments.
Enormous thanks in advance, Fredrik
I'm working on a garage project. Since I find it very enjoyable, I've decided to do as much as I can myself. It's clear that it will be more expensive and take longer, but since it's a hobby, that's okay to some extent. Since I'm a layman in the field, I've had to educate myself by buying books and so on about different tasks.
Now I've encountered a delicate problem. If I had turned to a constructor, this wouldn't have happened, so I hope to bounce ideas with you on how to solve this in the best way.
The garage will be 33 square meters (5.5m * 6m). The height will be 4.85 meters to the ridge. It will have a smaller upper floor and since the span is quite large (5.5m), I've chosen to buy the trusses and have them installed.
So far, I've raised the frame consisting of 45*145 mm studs. From the surrounding gravel to the top of the frame, it is 2.27 m. The total height of the trusses will be 2.58 m. The tie beams in the trusses and floor joists will consist of Kerto beams 45*260 mm.
On the following website, I've made my drawings available. But please note that they are not created by a constructor, so any other use is strongly discouraged. http://sqflqq.blu.livefilestore.com...0pQYhXK7x8joNnEjYjMoxMXFeKTCmvH2A/garage.html
As mentioned, the frame is up and I'm now waiting for the trusses. But I got the following advice from the truss supplier, who has a good reputation:
"I recommend you to insert a 45 x 170 under the wall plates on the long sides where the trusses will lie. If you haven't planned for the trusses to lie where you have a post underneath, then you don't need to insert a support beam under the wall plate."
The only right thing seems to be to do as he says to ensure proper load-bearing capacity, but it feels a bit daunting since the frame is now up.
As I see it, I have the following options.
1) Remove one vertical stud at a time on the long sides and cut out precisely for a horizontal 45*175 along the entire bearer and put it back before moving on to the next. Then install the horizontal 45*175 along the entire side.
2) Remove one vertical stud at a time on the long sides, but only of the pairs of vertical studs that support a truss. Cut out precisely for a horizontal 45*175 and put it back before moving on to the next. Then install the segments of horizontal 45*175 needed.
3) On the website I linked, you can see where the trusses are placed in relation to the vertical studs. For example, "Drawing from above showing the trusses' placement." An idea I had was to move the trusses so they really stand over the vertical studs. The disadvantages I see with this are that it becomes a bit trickier with insulation since they won't be at 1200 mm centers. The major disadvantage is that between some trusses, it exceeds 1200 mm centers, and I don't know if that's terribly dangerous. It seems like the simplest solution.
If you look at the drawings, you'll see that the wall plate consists of a double layer of 45*145, and in some places, three layers such as above windows. My hope was that this would suffice. According to the book "Garageboken," I remember that if a truss falls more than 100 mm from a vertical stud, reinforcement is needed. In my case, I think I have a max 100 mm difference, so I had hoped that my double, sometimes triple, wall plate would solve this. But of course, the example in that book doesn't deal with a garage with an upper floor, so it might be a bit weak after all.
I am extremely grateful for tips and comments.
Enormous thanks in advance, Fredrik
Looks nice! I looked at the picture you posted. But as mentioned, to get more stability, you should have done it like at the garage door, i.e., put it on edge. It shouldn't be too much work to recess it. A saw cut and then a chisel. You wouldn't need so many BMF angles in your construction; nailing would suffice. Otherwise, it looks great!!
Hey!
Thanks for the posts!
But what do you think about option 3?
Meaning to ensure the roof trusses are placed directly over the "posts," but then risk having about 130 cm between some trusses?
I spoke with a neighbor who is just as uneducated in carpentry as I am, and he suspected that it should be a solution that works.
The question is whether it affects the roof's load-bearing capacity?
Thanks a lot in advance
Fredrik
Thanks for the posts!
But what do you think about option 3?
Meaning to ensure the roof trusses are placed directly over the "posts," but then risk having about 130 cm between some trusses?
I spoke with a neighbor who is just as uneducated in carpentry as I am, and he suspected that it should be a solution that works.
The question is whether it affects the roof's load-bearing capacity?
Thanks a lot in advance
Fredrik
Oops, saw that the link to the drawing didn't work at first. Now it works but the page's text got a bit messed up.
http://sqflqq.blu.livefilestore.com...0pQYhXK7x8joNnEjYjMoxMXFeKTCmvH2A/garage.html
http://sqflqq.blu.livefilestore.com...0pQYhXK7x8joNnEjYjMoxMXFeKTCmvH2A/garage.html
Can't you install extra vertical studs where the trusses are supposed to be placed, or will the studs end up in a window then?
Hello again!
My mistake, no roof truss should actually lie over a window.
Looking at this link directly from the top view, I should be able to move some of the standing studs on the window side so they all fall under a roof truss.
http://sqflqq.blu.livefilestore.com...iC1nShtjpJkHSgVFw7FSXAw/vaggplan_takstol.html
The same issue is on the other side, possibly an extra standing one should be added to avoid having more than 600 cc.
It becomes a bit tricky, however, where I have my door on this side. Perhaps a piece of horizontal 45*170 could be added here.
What do you think about this?
Best regards,
Fredrik
My mistake, no roof truss should actually lie over a window.
Looking at this link directly from the top view, I should be able to move some of the standing studs on the window side so they all fall under a roof truss.
http://sqflqq.blu.livefilestore.com...iC1nShtjpJkHSgVFw7FSXAw/vaggplan_takstol.html
The same issue is on the other side, possibly an extra standing one should be added to avoid having more than 600 cc.
It becomes a bit tricky, however, where I have my door on this side. Perhaps a piece of horizontal 45*170 could be added here.
What do you think about this?
Best regards,
Fredrik
The first thing that strikes me is that you seem to have an oversized hanbjälke... why???
and yes... Instead of all the extra frills, you could directly under 1 piece 45x 145 in the hammarbandet, place 1 piece 45x 220 on edge instead of double hammarbräder....
and yes... Instead of all the extra frills, you could directly under 1 piece 45x 145 in the hammarbandet, place 1 piece 45x 220 on edge instead of double hammarbräder....
Hello!
Thank you for your response, Milkshaken!
The dimension of the beam is based on the fact that there will be a smaller, very small, upper floor. Like a sleeping loft or storage.
Since the span is 5535 mm between the long sides, I have been recommended to use Kerto 45*260 beams.
I have checked with both Moeleven and the company that will deliver the roof trusses, and both say that this is a must to avoid deflection on the upper floor.
Or have I missed something?
Best regards,
Fredrik
Thank you for your response, Milkshaken!
The dimension of the beam is based on the fact that there will be a smaller, very small, upper floor. Like a sleeping loft or storage.
Since the span is 5535 mm between the long sides, I have been recommended to use Kerto 45*260 beams.
I have checked with both Moeleven and the company that will deliver the roof trusses, and both say that this is a must to avoid deflection on the upper floor.
Or have I missed something?
Best regards,
Fredrik
Hello!
Thanks for all the answers.
It sounds like most of you are suggesting that I should fit them in. It feels a bit daunting now that everything is assembled.
I had hoped that I could solve it by either moving the roof beams to get cc 130 between some or moving the standing studs in the frame so they fall under the roof trusses.
Thanks for all the answers.
Best regards,
Fredrik
Thanks for all the answers.
It sounds like most of you are suggesting that I should fit them in. It feels a bit daunting now that everything is assembled.
I had hoped that I could solve it by either moving the roof beams to get cc 130 between some or moving the standing studs in the frame so they fall under the roof trusses.
Thanks for all the answers.
Best regards,
Fredrik
Hello!
Just spoke with the lumber yard and they said I would probably solve the problem easiest by adding extra joists exactly where I will have the rafters. I will then have cc 1200 between the rafters but will have to cut and fiddle a bit with the insulation on the lower floor.
I'm unsure if I could embed a horizontal 45*170 well enough for it to truly be load-bearing. A little annoying play would make it not do what it's supposed to.
Hope this will be a good solution.
Best regards,
Fredrik
Just spoke with the lumber yard and they said I would probably solve the problem easiest by adding extra joists exactly where I will have the rafters. I will then have cc 1200 between the rafters but will have to cut and fiddle a bit with the insulation on the lower floor.
I'm unsure if I could embed a horizontal 45*170 well enough for it to truly be load-bearing. A little annoying play would make it not do what it's supposed to.
Hope this will be a good solution.
Best regards,
Fredrik