How to attach the framework to the slab?

[patriklarsson]

By the way, I am also interested in buying a rotary hammer, but I do have a requirement that the hammer function can be turned off so it can be used as a regular drill, even if it is big and powerful, I have a use for such a tool for other purposes. It should be single-phase but really strong and preferably reasonably cheap
Anyone has any tips?
Best regards, Patrik

 

[Mats]

Skip the hardware stores. Their rental prices tend to be, to say the least, quite steep. There are real rental companies like cramo that offer significantly better prices and also better equipment.

 

[injonil]

Biltema's galvanized expansion bolt, M8, were a bit weak I thought, it happened a few times that the nut got thread damaged so I had to use two nuts on these instead... I do like to tighten quite hard

 

[patriklarsson]

At places like Jula, there are demolition hammers ranging from 300-2600 bucks, it feels like one of the roughly 5 models they had should work. There were 2 at Biltema, and searching on PriceRunner, you can find about 10 different ones too, varying from 700 bucks and up.
If there’s only one that is variable, reasonably light (2-3kg?), and can turn off the hammer function so it can be used as a regular drill, it seems like a sensible purchase. However, it must be adequately strong, but they all seem to be 500 watts and above. 740W is about 1 horsepower, which is very strong
It’s enough if it can drill 6mm in this case, I’d want to be able to drill up to 10mm but nothing extreme is needed.

Regarding stripping the threads on an M8 bolt, there are specified torques for expansion bolts. I'm a hobby mechanic (which is why I’m building a garage), so I plan to use a torque wrench.

If the joists aren't straight, they must either be very skewed, or the floor is. Or maybe they've been set too sparsely?
Best regards, Patrik

 

[Kurtivan]

It is also fine to use only steel nails. Really, it is only sideways that the attachment is needed for all the weight of the addition, and then the sill keeps it in place. There are countless examples where this has been done, and it has worked perfectly well.

 

[Mikael_L]

It's also fine to just use steel nails. Actually, it's only laterally that the fastening is needed because all the weight of the extension will then hold the sill in place. There are countless examples where this has been done and it has worked perfectly fine.

I'm not entirely sure that reasoning holds. Depending on the design of the house and roof, the surrounding terrain, and wind conditions at the location, there can be uplift forces on a house sufficient to topple it if it isn't anchored down well enough.

I believe at least Mycke_nu had calculated fairly substantial uplift forces on a house...

I myself wouldn't take the chance, so I will ensure that my garage sill is secured vertically with at least a few tons.