2,212 views ·
11 replies
2k views
11 replies
What should I start with, the outside or the inside?
Hello!
I am building a garage.
So far, the frame is ready, see the picture:
http://sqflqq.blu.livefilestore.com...k7SMcGCA73DsqW7SQ6mrzIjTehjYXJzY/overview.jpg
My father and I are working on the construction together, but neither of us is a carpenter.
The next step is to cover the walls while waiting for the roof trusses.
I think we should first cover the inside with OSB boards so that we can easily cut out holes for electrical boxes from the inside. Then, attach pipes and boxes where the holes already are to get the perfect fit. Lastly, put in insulation and attach the panel from the outside.
My father thinks it's smarter to first cover the outside with the panel so that we can work from the inside afterward.
But I believe it will be tricky to first install electricals and then mount OSB boards and finally cut out the box holes where the electrical boxes "approximately" should be.
I'd appreciate comments on what you think is the smartest approach.
One thing that could undermine my idea is that I ultimately want to have drywall over the OSB boards, which could again cause problems with hole placement. I had planned to leave the drywall until last.
Best regards,
Fredrik
I am building a garage.
So far, the frame is ready, see the picture:
http://sqflqq.blu.livefilestore.com...k7SMcGCA73DsqW7SQ6mrzIjTehjYXJzY/overview.jpg
My father and I are working on the construction together, but neither of us is a carpenter.
The next step is to cover the walls while waiting for the roof trusses.
I think we should first cover the inside with OSB boards so that we can easily cut out holes for electrical boxes from the inside. Then, attach pipes and boxes where the holes already are to get the perfect fit. Lastly, put in insulation and attach the panel from the outside.
My father thinks it's smarter to first cover the outside with the panel so that we can work from the inside afterward.
But I believe it will be tricky to first install electricals and then mount OSB boards and finally cut out the box holes where the electrical boxes "approximately" should be.
I'd appreciate comments on what you think is the smartest approach.
One thing that could undermine my idea is that I ultimately want to have drywall over the OSB boards, which could again cause problems with hole placement. I had planned to leave the drywall until last.
Best regards,
Fredrik
not directly, just measure the center of the box and mark the equivalent on the panel, then drill out with a hole saw before mounting the panel, alternatively use hole in one or equivalent (http://www.biltema.se/products/product.asp?iItemId=104578)
Hmm!!
Not bad!! Smart thing!
I think in that case we start from the outside and finish with osb.
The holes shouldn't be any problem then, in my opinion!
Thank you for all the help!!
Best regards,
Fredrik
Not bad!! Smart thing!
I think in that case we start from the outside and finish with osb.
The holes shouldn't be any problem then, in my opinion!
Thank you for all the help!!
Best regards,
Fredrik
No, that is "how it's done" - using hole in one, that is. Absolutely right to wait with OSB until the roof is on. It doesn't tolerate much moisture before it starts to swell and becomes very troublesome as a substrate for the gypsum.
Don't forget that you need a vindskydd of some form plus spikläkt for air gap behind the outer panel.
Don't forget that you need a vindskydd of some form plus spikläkt for air gap behind the outer panel.
From what I can see in the picture, you don't have a hammarband on edge... therefore, it is important to place the rafters above the studs. I also built the garage with lying hammarband and made sure to place the studs exactly where the rafters would go.
Think carefully when you place the nailing rule above/below the window. So that you have something to attach the metal sheets and covers to. It's boring to discover after you've already nailed up the paneling.
Think carefully when you place the nailing rule above/below the window. So that you have something to attach the metal sheets and covers to. It's boring to discover after you've already nailed up the paneling.
However, they have added double ridge beams, which (between thumb and elbow) feels sufficient with the relatively light loads that a garage roof of that size transfers down to the studs.bergstrollet said:
Hello!
Thanks for the answers!!
I followed the principle "rule of thumb" when I added a double top plate.
In the "Garage Book" it states that with a single top plate, the studs must not be more than cc 100 from the truss. So I thought my double top plate would solve this since I have about a 100 mm difference in some places.
But my truss supplier recommends me to move the studs so that they are directly under the trusses.
So it's probably recommended to have a top plate on edge from the beginning.
Bergstrollet - thanks for the note about the windows. I originally thought of nailing the panel across the entire wall and then cutting out for the windows. (There will be 2 60cm windows, so the area isn't that big where I'm wasting the panel) But what you say makes me think again. Thanks!
Best regards,
Fredrik
Best regards,
Fredrik
Thanks for the answers!!
I followed the principle "rule of thumb" when I added a double top plate.
In the "Garage Book" it states that with a single top plate, the studs must not be more than cc 100 from the truss. So I thought my double top plate would solve this since I have about a 100 mm difference in some places.
But my truss supplier recommends me to move the studs so that they are directly under the trusses.
So it's probably recommended to have a top plate on edge from the beginning.
Bergstrollet - thanks for the note about the windows. I originally thought of nailing the panel across the entire wall and then cutting out for the windows. (There will be 2 60cm windows, so the area isn't that big where I'm wasting the panel) But what you say makes me think again. Thanks!
Best regards,
Fredrik
Best regards,
Fredrik
Well, as we build... We set up the framework first, simple hammer beam, and standing bearer... Then the outdoor gypsum goes on, after that you go inside, insulate, seal with plastic, (If 45x45 is to be set, do that then) after that the boxes for the electricity are installed as well as the pipes for these, + possibly, water pipes... then we use Hole in one yes.... but specifically OSB can be tricky with hole in one, that's why we measure... After the OSB boards are in place, HiO is used for the inner gypsum... Then it's just a matter of starting to space the ceiling and putting the gypsum there, yes after the ceiling wiring has been set of course... Interior walls, plus possibly, interior paneling... The thing is that as long as you have sealed the roof and exterior walls, you start on the inside... Mainly because incoming electricity (electricity cabinet) is usually installed among the last things...
I agree with your father, set up the interior after you've put on the outdoor gypsum or asfabord that is...
I agree with your father, set up the interior after you've put on the outdoor gypsum or asfabord that is...
I don't think there's a major problem with hole-in-one through OSB. Sure, it won't be as precise as through drywall, but if it differs by a millimeter, you can just trim a bit more at the edge. The hole is hidden anyway by the drywall.
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 970 posts
A more expensive but electrically smooth alternative is to replace the OSB with ändspont.
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