I am planning to build a load-bearing heart wall that will support a 30sqm floor structure and also act as a support in the middle for truss rafters (over 7m span).
It's an extension that is about 7x5 meters, and the wall will be in the middle between the long sides, i.e., 5m long.
Pretty close to the middle of the wall is a doorway, and I expect to have about 50cm of wall above the door.
The goal is to make this wall load-bearing!
I plan to use OSB + plasterboard on both sides of the wall, offset joints, and screwed and glued. Framing with 45x70 should be sufficient, but I can certainly increase the dimension if needed. The floor that the wall stands on will be glued flooring chipboard in the same lengthwise direction as the wall, so to compensate for the doorway, I intend to reinforce under the chipboard along the wall's sill so that the sill + reinforcements + chipboard together can handle significant tensile forces. The chipboard should obviously not be joined right at the doorway.
Will this be a sufficiently load-bearing wall by itself to support the rafters and floor structure on the upper floor? Suggestions for improvements?
This heart wall will, therefore, stand on a floor structure that is not directly anchored to the foundation, and the floor structure should not need to take the load from the wall...
An alternative is, of course, to put in a substantial glulam beam or similar and not worry so much about how the wall is built.
It's an extension that is about 7x5 meters, and the wall will be in the middle between the long sides, i.e., 5m long.
Pretty close to the middle of the wall is a doorway, and I expect to have about 50cm of wall above the door.
The goal is to make this wall load-bearing!
I plan to use OSB + plasterboard on both sides of the wall, offset joints, and screwed and glued. Framing with 45x70 should be sufficient, but I can certainly increase the dimension if needed. The floor that the wall stands on will be glued flooring chipboard in the same lengthwise direction as the wall, so to compensate for the doorway, I intend to reinforce under the chipboard along the wall's sill so that the sill + reinforcements + chipboard together can handle significant tensile forces. The chipboard should obviously not be joined right at the doorway.
Will this be a sufficiently load-bearing wall by itself to support the rafters and floor structure on the upper floor? Suggestions for improvements?
This heart wall will, therefore, stand on a floor structure that is not directly anchored to the foundation, and the floor structure should not need to take the load from the wall...
An alternative is, of course, to put in a substantial glulam beam or similar and not worry so much about how the wall is built.
So you want the wall to only stand on the ends and act as a beam instead of just transferring the load directly down to the floor joists?
If the wall is not "joined" under the door opening as well, and thus able to take the tensile forces that occur at the bottom of a beam, it is unnecessary to try to make the whole wall act as a beam.
With 50 cm, you also have plenty of space for the glulam needed.
Glulam becomes much neater I think! More flexible. Easier to understand and manage for any future homeowners, etc!
Best regards
With 50 cm, you also have plenty of space for the glulam needed.
Glulam becomes much neater I think! More flexible. Easier to understand and manage for any future homeowners, etc!
Best regards
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Oh, yes, then it spontaneously sounds a bit weak to have a wall with a doorway in it.
In any case, it's advanced for me to calculate the strength of such a thing.
Though, if I were to try, I would, for example, place a flat iron at the bottom under the threshold so that you get help from the entire wall height instead of just 50cm at the top.
In any case, it's advanced for me to calculate the strength of such a thing.
Though, if I were to try, I would, for example, place a flat iron at the bottom under the threshold so that you get help from the entire wall height instead of just 50cm at the top.
Flat steel is definitely a possible solution!
But I think it seems unnecessary and complicated considering what you want to achieve! Better then, as I said, to put glulam, 90 x 405 should work, or something similar, and then frame a non-load-bearing wall underneath with total freedom for openings, ductwork, and future changes!
But I think it seems unnecessary and complicated considering what you want to achieve! Better then, as I said, to put glulam, 90 x 405 should work, or something similar, and then frame a non-load-bearing wall underneath with total freedom for openings, ductwork, and future changes!
and if TS needs a higher beam, or even changes their mind and wants it open on the first floor, the beam can also be "recessed" into the floor joist above.
(that is, the top edge of the beam is at the same level as the floor joists and these are attached to the beam with joist hangers...)
(that is, the top edge of the beam is at the same level as the floor joists and these are attached to the beam with joist hangers...)
It is not very likely that someone in the future would want to open up and remove this wall. Embedding a beam in the floor joist is indeed possible but would also require opening up the rafters for this embedding...
Anyway, I still think it would be a bit fun to manage to construct a wall that solves the task instead of just going and buying a glulam beam
Anyway, I still think it would be a bit fun to manage to construct a wall that solves the task instead of just going and buying a glulam beam
Normally, it is difficult to count on a framework with 45x70 dimensions to be load-bearing. If it is designed as a truss structure, it might work, but one must be careful with how the joints are configured to ensure they can truly transfer the forces.
In this case, the framework itself does not become load-bearing, but rather the glue-screwed plywood boards and the tension rod at the bottom.
But I would probably choose a tongue and groove 16mm plyfa so it's glued together at the edge as well.
But I would probably choose a tongue and groove 16mm plyfa so it's glued together at the edge as well.