Hello!
I'm planning to convert my son's playroom into a home theater/gaming room. I bought paint and some stuff yesterday. Today, I've removed as much loose wallpaper as I could, and I've also plastered and sanded. I tested painting half a wall (because I suspected it would cause issues) and now after an hour of drying time, there are quite a few bubbles... q(;^
p, both large and small, as well as long and short, in every damn shape you can think of actually 
The primary question is, will it settle in another hour or two, or by tomorrow?
If not, my plan B is to put up drywall all around, including on the ceiling. The house/walls are made of lightweight concrete, and the ceiling is also likely lightweight concrete, incredibly "soft" in material, especially the ceiling.
What's the best way to attach new drywall and with what? My hope is that someone answers with a nail gun or something similar... something that goes quickly in other words. I don't have any such tools at all, but I could buy them if necessary.
I don't plan to hang anything very heavy on the walls, just a tensioned frame projection screen, and a projector will be mounted on the ceiling. (Although the projector isn't exactly light...)
One more thing, the drywall, can these be bought from byggmax? Or is it of poor quality?
Thanks!
I'm planning to convert my son's playroom into a home theater/gaming room. I bought paint and some stuff yesterday. Today, I've removed as much loose wallpaper as I could, and I've also plastered and sanded. I tested painting half a wall (because I suspected it would cause issues) and now after an hour of drying time, there are quite a few bubbles... q(;^
The primary question is, will it settle in another hour or two, or by tomorrow?
If not, my plan B is to put up drywall all around, including on the ceiling. The house/walls are made of lightweight concrete, and the ceiling is also likely lightweight concrete, incredibly "soft" in material, especially the ceiling.
What's the best way to attach new drywall and with what? My hope is that someone answers with a nail gun or something similar... something that goes quickly in other words. I don't have any such tools at all, but I could buy them if necessary.
I don't plan to hang anything very heavy on the walls, just a tensioned frame projection screen, and a projector will be mounted on the ceiling. (Although the projector isn't exactly light...)
One more thing, the drywall, can these be bought from byggmax? Or is it of poor quality?
Thanks!
Last edited:
Hej !
Plan C kan vara att måla väggarna med oljefärg för att få bort bubblorna.. efter det målar du som vanligt med vattenbaseradfärg.
Dock luktar det väldigt mycket.
Skruvautomat kan användas för uppsättning av gips. Har en av märket makita som jag är nöjd med.
Har du en vanlig skruvdragare kan du köpa en bitshållare med fjäder. Du ställer in djupet på hållaren och sedan är det bara att skruva.
Jag hade köpt gipsskivorna på byggmax, dom har en renoveringsgipsskiva som inte bygger så mycket.
Ska du fästa tunga grejer går du bara igenom gipsen och in i lättbetongen med plugg.
Projektorduk.. Kanske passa på att banka upp några 45
r för att kunna bygga in högtalare ? eller glespanel för att dölja eventuella sladdar?
Plan C kan vara att måla väggarna med oljefärg för att få bort bubblorna.. efter det målar du som vanligt med vattenbaseradfärg.
Dock luktar det väldigt mycket.
Skruvautomat kan användas för uppsättning av gips. Har en av märket makita som jag är nöjd med.
Har du en vanlig skruvdragare kan du köpa en bitshållare med fjäder. Du ställer in djupet på hållaren och sedan är det bara att skruva.
Jag hade köpt gipsskivorna på byggmax, dom har en renoveringsgipsskiva som inte bygger så mycket.
Ska du fästa tunga grejer går du bara igenom gipsen och in i lättbetongen med plugg.
Projektorduk.. Kanske passa på att banka upp några 45
Thanks for the input, sled.
I'm not very savvy with construction.
The renovation board is much more expensive, I was thinking of buying the "regular" 13x1200x2400 board. Isn't that good enough for walls and the ceiling?
Then comes the question... I have to fill the entire wall and ceiling with joint compound, let it dry, and then sand it. And then paint. Or can you paint directly onto it?
What screws attach to my walls and ceiling? Just driving a screw into that ceiling feels a bit uncertain, I must say...
I'm not very savvy with construction.
The renovation board is much more expensive, I was thinking of buying the "regular" 13x1200x2400 board. Isn't that good enough for walls and the ceiling?
Then comes the question... I have to fill the entire wall and ceiling with joint compound, let it dry, and then sand it. And then paint. Or can you paint directly onto it?
What screws attach to my walls and ceiling? Just driving a screw into that ceiling feels a bit uncertain, I must say...
I would have skipped plaster if the walls are otherwise smooth. If it bubbles, then remove the wallpaper. Alternatively, let it settle when you've painted with oil paint. Then spackle and fix it. If it bubbles again, just redo it.
It's not just the bubbles that bother me; it's also the wallpaper seams here and there that are quite visible. I've used a lot of paint, no skimping.
The ceiling will be black with a lighter contrast on the walls. As mentioned, it's a theater room, so maybe one can live with it looking awful? Or not... I vote not. But if the drywall needs to be treated (spackling/sanding) before I can paint, then it definitely leans towards oil paint in that case.
The ceiling will be black with a lighter contrast on the walls. As mentioned, it's a theater room, so maybe one can live with it looking awful? Or not... I vote not. But if the drywall needs to be treated (spackling/sanding) before I can paint, then it definitely leans towards oil paint in that case.
Gypsum must have seams skimmed at least 2 times...Falcen said:It's not just the bubbles that bother me, it's also the wallpaper seams here and there that are quite visible. I've used a lot of paint, no skimping.
The ceiling will be black with a lighter tint on the walls. As I said, it's a home theater room, maybe one can live with it looking terrible? Or not... I vote not. But if the plasterboard needs to be treated (skimmed/sanded) before I can paint, then I'm definitely leaning towards oil paint in that case.
Prime with oil paint or remove all wallpaper. Then apply a wide coat of joint compound on the walls...
Takes a little longer but is cheaper and good.
Fill the gaps after you have torn/sanded them. Regardless, you won't be able to avoid filling if you want a smooth surface.
Another option is to use a "re-setter," which is like a thicker fabric that you glue to the wall. It eliminates irregularities and gives you a smooth surface.
Personally, I would try to remove as much of the wallpaper as possible. After removing the worst of it, you can use a spray bottle with water and spray the wall... have some coffee and then go over the wall with a scraper... this usually removes a little more.
Does the wall look okay? No? Go ahead with oil paint.
I would then fill in the irregularities, sand, and put a reinforcing fabric over the whole thing... ceiling and walls. However, I have a slight preference for reinforcing fabric, so this is not necessary.
Plasterboard is not a bad idea, though.. Talk to someone who sells screws.. There might be screws you can use directly in light concrete.. if not.. apply some strips of PL400 (glue) and nail plugs? It's just cumbersome to carry all the plasterboards.. maybe you have help carrying? Otherwise, if the room is large, it might be an option to rent a "plasterboard lift" when you install the plasterboard on the ceiling. However, I see this as a lot of work just to get a nice finish. If you're going to use plasterboard, you might consider lowering the ceiling for spotlights? I personally installed LED strips with plexiglass in front when I lowered the ceiling.
Hehe, to sum it all up... If you just want a nice finish, focus on fixing your existing walls. If you have/get ideas about lowering the ceiling, building in speakers, etc., and maybe installing new outlets, consider expanding and installing plasterboard.
Personally, I would try to remove as much of the wallpaper as possible. After removing the worst of it, you can use a spray bottle with water and spray the wall... have some coffee and then go over the wall with a scraper... this usually removes a little more.
Does the wall look okay? No? Go ahead with oil paint.
I would then fill in the irregularities, sand, and put a reinforcing fabric over the whole thing... ceiling and walls. However, I have a slight preference for reinforcing fabric, so this is not necessary.
Plasterboard is not a bad idea, though.. Talk to someone who sells screws.. There might be screws you can use directly in light concrete.. if not.. apply some strips of PL400 (glue) and nail plugs? It's just cumbersome to carry all the plasterboards.. maybe you have help carrying? Otherwise, if the room is large, it might be an option to rent a "plasterboard lift" when you install the plasterboard on the ceiling. However, I see this as a lot of work just to get a nice finish. If you're going to use plasterboard, you might consider lowering the ceiling for spotlights? I personally installed LED strips with plexiglass in front when I lowered the ceiling.
Hehe, to sum it all up... If you just want a nice finish, focus on fixing your existing walls. If you have/get ideas about lowering the ceiling, building in speakers, etc., and maybe installing new outlets, consider expanding and installing plasterboard.
Click here to reply