I am interested in a split-level house for the first time. But it's a unique way to build a house and now I'm wondering what the pros and cons are. The house was built in 1980. What should I be vigilant about if I go and look at it? I am a fairly experienced house hunter but don't want to miss anything that might be sensitive specifically for split-level houses.
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The difference between a split-level house and a house with a regular basement, for me, is the nature of the plot. That is, it slopes quite a bit, and you have to excavate or fill in properly if you are going to build with a slab on the ground. With a split-level house, a house with a basement, where at least one side is, so to speak, above ground, you avoid this cost. One advantage is that you get rooms in the basement level that are not underground, with all that implies regarding the room's surface layers and, not least, you avoid the basement feel. Regarding the spaces behind or alongside the living area, the so-called secondary areas, it is like with a traditional basement, check the drainage. Are there any signs of moisture penetration or does it look good? Now I don't know what the standards were in 1980 regarding insulation under the slab in the split-level floor. Thinking primarily about the living area. If there is only concrete under the floor, it can get cold. The question is also whether there is a capillary-breaking layer under the slab to prevent moisture migration upwards. In such a case, it is important that the floor construction is done according to best practices.
Thank you for the response!
It's a bit difficult to check the concrete slab since it is "hidden." How do you know if there is a capillary-breaking layer?
If I buy, I want to lay a beautiful wooden floor on the entire ground floor. Then I should be able to lay my own capillary-protective layer between "whatever I find under the floor" and my new fine wooden floor, right?
An inspection was done five years ago. I have read it.
It generally warned about the risks of the concrete slab construction, but no remarks were made at the time of inspection.
It's a bit difficult to check the concrete slab since it is "hidden." How do you know if there is a capillary-breaking layer?
If I buy, I want to lay a beautiful wooden floor on the entire ground floor. Then I should be able to lay my own capillary-protective layer between "whatever I find under the floor" and my new fine wooden floor, right?
An inspection was done five years ago. I have read it.
It generally warned about the risks of the concrete slab construction, but no remarks were made at the time of inspection.
There are plenty of that type of inspection report, basically worthless in my view since they don't say anything about the current house but are mostly written to cover the back of the inspector.
Consider the lower floor as a basement floor, JanneL described it well.
The only way to know what it looks like under the floor is to break it up and take a look.
If you're not planning to have underfloor heating, you can disregard how it looks, as long as you install indoor platon that ventilates any moisture through the skirting boards, then you can lay the wooden floor floating on top.
Consider the lower floor as a basement floor, JanneL described it well.
The only way to know what it looks like under the floor is to break it up and take a look.
If you're not planning to have underfloor heating, you can disregard how it looks, as long as you install indoor platon that ventilates any moisture through the skirting boards, then you can lay the wooden floor floating on top.
If you ask me, underfloor heating is always good 
but not everyone agrees. You can have problems in a house with underfloor heating if the slab isn't properly insulated. It leaks heat into the ground instead of upwards, which increases energy consumption/costs, and the dried-out slab can absorb water in the summer if you turn off the underfloor heating, unless the drainage and other conditions keep the water away. But it's not a given that you'll have problems; it varies from house to house.
Now it’s more difficult—I don't know how you can check the capillary-breaking layer under the slab without breaking it up, and breaking up a slab with underfloor heating isn't a good idea either :O
Is the underfloor heating warming the basement, or is it more comfort heating? The underfloor heating should be above the indoor plaster I suggested you could use, which isn't possible in your case.
IF the underfloor heating is to heat the basement and not just for comfort, I would carry out a thorough moisture measurement. If it's okay, I would dig up around the foundation, insulate-seal-drain, and then decorate the basement the way I wanted with wooden flooring and the rest. I would monitor energy usage before and after to see if it indicates poor insulation.
but not everyone agrees. You can have problems in a house with underfloor heating if the slab isn't properly insulated. It leaks heat into the ground instead of upwards, which increases energy consumption/costs, and the dried-out slab can absorb water in the summer if you turn off the underfloor heating, unless the drainage and other conditions keep the water away. But it's not a given that you'll have problems; it varies from house to house.Now it’s more difficult—I don't know how you can check the capillary-breaking layer under the slab without breaking it up, and breaking up a slab with underfloor heating isn't a good idea either :O
Is the underfloor heating warming the basement, or is it more comfort heating? The underfloor heating should be above the indoor plaster I suggested you could use, which isn't possible in your case.
IF the underfloor heating is to heat the basement and not just for comfort, I would carry out a thorough moisture measurement. If it's okay, I would dig up around the foundation, insulate-seal-drain, and then decorate the basement the way I wanted with wooden flooring and the rest. I would monitor energy usage before and after to see if it indicates poor insulation.
If it's poorly insulated, you're mostly paying to keep the worms under the house nice and warmzingo said:
What type of flooring is there now? If the underfloor heating is designed for, say, tiles, and then you lay wood flooring, the floor could be damaged (it becomes too hot, can crack, and you may get ugly stripes).
Assuming you have electric underfloor heating
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The previous owners claim they only consume 11,000 kWh per year with a bottom plate of about 60 sqm on "two" floors. So it doesn't seem like much is leaking. They do sometimes burn wood in the open fireplace, which I will also do. I have an immense amount of wood that I need to use for something.
As it is now, it seems to heat the basement.
They have tiles on the entire ground floor but have laid parquet in some rooms.
Regarding the sizing.
The heat itself can be controlled via controls in each room (attached to the walls).
So I should be able to determine myself whether the wooden floor will crack or not?
Or how does it work?
As it is now, it seems to heat the basement.
They have tiles on the entire ground floor but have laid parquet in some rooms.
Regarding the sizing.
The heat itself can be controlled via controls in each room (attached to the walls).
So I should be able to determine myself whether the wooden floor will crack or not?
Or how does it work?