Member
· Västra Götaland
· 766 posts
In the planning stage of a quite extensive renovation/extension where we want to take down a wall to open up between the kitchen and dining room. I assume the wall is load-bearing and then we'll need to install some kind of beam. How do you secure a glulam beam? I'm assuming you need posts down to the floor, right?
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 766 posts
No one knows?
It is quite a complicated process that one should not undertake without the necessary knowledge. Strength calculations are needed for this. My advice is to contact a documented knowledgeable supplier and request a quote.
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 766 posts
Absolutely should not do this myself, what I'm wondering is if you need to have a post down to the floor, as we are planning a kitchen where the wall should preferably be removed. If posts are needed, then this complicates things a bit and we'll have to replan... It's about 4 meters, a wooden house built in '21 and this is on the lower floor... The exterior wall where we'd prefer not to have posts is horizontal timber about 100 thick.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 048 posts
If there is timber in the wall, you make a suitable hole in the timber wall and insert the glued laminated beam.
Then you need to have a support at the other end where you can insert the beam "from the side."
If there is timber in the house, it is better for the glued laminated beam to lie in the timber and follow any movement of the timber wall; a post moves much less, and thus the joint between the ceiling and the wall moves.
That was a positive answer
Protte
Then you need to have a support at the other end where you can insert the beam "from the side."
If there is timber in the house, it is better for the glued laminated beam to lie in the timber and follow any movement of the timber wall; a post moves much less, and thus the joint between the ceiling and the wall moves.
That was a positive answer
Protte
If the opening is 4m, it should be possible without posts, but it all depends on the surrounding structural integrity. Request a preliminary opinion from the person who will do the job so you know for sure.petersson79 said:
Start by finding out if the wall IS load-bearing. In a log house, it should be possible to place the beam in the frame, but a carpenter should be able to tell you easily.
In our 1970s house, we had to place it on separate posts. Everything was then painted with panel white, which looks excellent here, but probably a bit strange in an old log house. It was a bit uncertain whether the wall was load-bearing; the blueprints are ambiguous. However, because the center post tightened immediately when we cut it, we knew it was load-bearing. The load-bearing post was a regular thin stud with a massive amount of nails, while what we thought was load-bearing was only bulked up to fill out. We realized when we removed all the plasterboard that it didn't even reach all the way down to the floor.
At least you will probably avoid such surprises
In our 1970s house, we had to place it on separate posts. Everything was then painted with panel white, which looks excellent here, but probably a bit strange in an old log house. It was a bit uncertain whether the wall was load-bearing; the blueprints are ambiguous. However, because the center post tightened immediately when we cut it, we knew it was load-bearing. The load-bearing post was a regular thin stud with a massive amount of nails, while what we thought was load-bearing was only bulked up to fill out. We realized when we removed all the plasterboard that it didn't even reach all the way down to the floor.
At least you will probably avoid such surprises
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 766 posts
Sounds much better right away. I’ll get a carpenter to check it out as soon as we get some other plans we're waiting for. Do you have to place the beam where the wall stands today or can it be shifted by a meter? It would align better with the kitchen construction in my opinion...Raceman said:
Impossible to answer such a question here in the forum; it all depends on how the construction looks as a whole.petersson79 said:Sounds much better right away. I will get a carpenter to check it out as soon as we get some other plans we are waiting for. Do you have to place the beam where the wall stands today, or is it possible to shift it by a meter, you think? It would align better with the kitchen construction in my opinion...
You say you're getting a carpenter? Are you sure he can do a structural analysis? It usually requires special expertise and knowledge for this.
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 766 posts
I'll start with him anyway, if he says I can bring someone else then I will. He's experienced and knows what he's doing. Who do you turn to for such matters in that case?
You turn to a construction engineering firm / building consultant / structural engineer.
The industry organization will likely help you find those with special expertise. Link: http://www.bygging.se/
You can also use Eniro to see if there is anyone nearby where you live.
The industry organization will likely help you find those with special expertise. Link: http://www.bygging.se/
You can also use Eniro to see if there is anyone nearby where you live.
My house from 2008 has a load-bearing internal wall (approximately in the middle) with a larger opening.
The glulam beam rests on 3x95 mm studs at each end.
BUT the house lives on a cement slab that is pile-driven. 2 of the piles are located directly under the 3x95 studs.
Don't know how your foundation looks, and the rest of the house
The glulam beam rests on 3x95 mm studs at each end.
BUT the house lives on a cement slab that is pile-driven. 2 of the piles are located directly under the 3x95 studs.
Don't know how your foundation looks, and the rest of the house
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 766 posts
Has a basement with one meter thick stone walls. It's an old house, built in 1921, so it's properly built with real timber... 
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