Hello!
I am working on designing a new construction of a detached garage 9.6x7.8m.
The garage will be partially recessed into the ground with a poured slab on the ground and then masonry up to about 0.4m above ground, and above that a framed wall.
It will be insulated, and I would prefer to have the interior space completely open without interior walls.
A possible issue is the strength against ground pressure on the masonry rear wall (9.6m), which will be the deepest on the sloping ground, about 1.5m below ground.
The ground consists of sand as it probably was an ancient seabed thousands of years ago.
My idea was to use 19x19x59 Lecasten bricks or masonry blocks with holes in the middle for vertical reinforcement and casting + horizontal reinforcement, of course.
Maybe a cast-in vertical steel beam with welded plates at the top and bottom in the middle of the wall is needed, which is cast into the edge beam at the bottom and attached to the wall plate at the top.
I would prefer not to have too thick of a masonry wall since the framed wall will probably be thinner.
Does anyone know or have other good tips?
I am working on designing a new construction of a detached garage 9.6x7.8m.
The garage will be partially recessed into the ground with a poured slab on the ground and then masonry up to about 0.4m above ground, and above that a framed wall.
It will be insulated, and I would prefer to have the interior space completely open without interior walls.
A possible issue is the strength against ground pressure on the masonry rear wall (9.6m), which will be the deepest on the sloping ground, about 1.5m below ground.
The ground consists of sand as it probably was an ancient seabed thousands of years ago.
My idea was to use 19x19x59 Lecasten bricks or masonry blocks with holes in the middle for vertical reinforcement and casting + horizontal reinforcement, of course.
Maybe a cast-in vertical steel beam with welded plates at the top and bottom in the middle of the wall is needed, which is cast into the edge beam at the bottom and attached to the wall plate at the top.
I would prefer not to have too thick of a masonry wall since the framed wall will probably be thinner.
Does anyone know or have other good tips?
It is concrete hollow block even in the columns.
Whether and if so, how it is reinforced in either walls or columns, I do not know; I bought the house second-hand and have not encountered any reinforcement in the few holes I have drilled.
The height of the basement wall from the slab to ground level is 1.6-1.7 m.
Whether and if so, how it is reinforced in either walls or columns, I do not know; I bought the house second-hand and have not encountered any reinforcement in the few holes I have drilled.
The height of the basement wall from the slab to ground level is 1.6-1.7 m.
I saw that there are shell blocks 200x200x500 which should be able to withstand large lateral forces if you cast the vertical wall reinforcement into the slab and reinforce the blocks horizontally. The wall blocks are then filled with concrete and cast together into a cohesive structure. The downside is that they don't insulate anything, but it should be possible to do that externally. Maybe with foam plastic + plaster?
Does anyone have experience with this?
Does anyone have experience with this?
Hello!
I still haven't completely figured out how to construct the wall, but I've now decided to only build with 190 mm Lecablocks due to their better insulation properties compared to shell blocks. I will embed 2 vertical steel profiles on the inside of the wall, which will be attached to the floor and tie beam to withstand the soil pressure + horizontal reinforcement, of course. The plan now is to insulate the Leca externally with 30+30 mm foam plastic (above ground) and then mesh and plaster on that, so it will add up to a total of 70 mm. My problem is that the masonry wall will be thicker outward than the timber frame wall above, so I'm trying to figure out how to handle that. The Lecablocks will form a small edge on the inside of the garage. I plan to align the vertical studs flush with the outer edge of the Lecablocks, then use horizontal studs and finish with classic ribbed paneling to match my old turn-of-the-century house. I will also have a weatherboard at the bottom as a finishing touch on the paneling.
I still haven't completely figured out how to construct the wall, but I've now decided to only build with 190 mm Lecablocks due to their better insulation properties compared to shell blocks. I will embed 2 vertical steel profiles on the inside of the wall, which will be attached to the floor and tie beam to withstand the soil pressure + horizontal reinforcement, of course. The plan now is to insulate the Leca externally with 30+30 mm foam plastic (above ground) and then mesh and plaster on that, so it will add up to a total of 70 mm. My problem is that the masonry wall will be thicker outward than the timber frame wall above, so I'm trying to figure out how to handle that. The Lecablocks will form a small edge on the inside of the garage. I plan to align the vertical studs flush with the outer edge of the Lecablocks, then use horizontal studs and finish with classic ribbed paneling to match my old turn-of-the-century house. I will also have a weatherboard at the bottom as a finishing touch on the paneling.
Thank you for the update!
It sounds like we are facing the same problem but you have progressed a little further!
I'm considering building a garage where the rear short side (about 7.5m) will end up about 140cm below ground. I would also prefer not to have any partition walls or other supports that take up space in the garage.
It sounds like we are facing the same problem but you have progressed a little further!
I'm considering building a garage where the rear short side (about 7.5m) will end up about 140cm below ground. I would also prefer not to have any partition walls or other supports that take up space in the garage.