Building a sleeping alcove. Attach to drywall.

[Kalasgubben]

I am going to build a sleeping alcove. Will attach a stud to the ceiling.
The studs on the sides unfortunately do not align with a stud. Only on single plasterboard.

Should I use molly bolts then? How deep should the screw go into the wall?

 

[BirgitS]

I would not attach an entire wall in just drywall but would put up new studs in the old wall that can secure the new wall.

 

[Kalasgubben]

It won't become a full wall. The surface of the bed itself is open. Thinking of a small bookshelf in an L shape next to the bed as well as above the bed. Where the supports are also attached to the ceiling and the floor.

 

[z_bumbi]

Molly goes as deep as the plasterboards are, choose those for single plasterboard. Keep in mind that the screw has a regular millimeter thread.

 

[Kalasgubben]

Molly goes as deep as plasterboards are, choose those for single plasterboard. Keep in mind that the screw has a standard metric thread.

Went to Krauta. They said universal plug with a wood screw. Since Molly requires you to hit the plug exactly. But that Molly also works well. It's just that it's more complicated.

 

[VidarH]

If you build the partition wall using wardrobes or bookshelves, you avoid a lot of work. I myself had wardrobes as a partition wall 25 years ago in a small apartment. One of them had neither interior nor back panel and was the "hidden" entrance that actually made my friends laugh. (Then there might have been a small contributing factor to capturing the housewife too )

If you still want a thinner solution without damaging the wall, place a stud in the floor and ceiling, double (or triple or whatever fits) standing stud screwed together rigidly and clad with OSB/Plywood on the bed side to withstand leaning against the wall. Not that the old wall holds up very well as a backrest anyway. So screw a nice glulam board to the wall and fasten the stud closest to the wall to this? With a nice bevel on the top, you could get a French cleat to hang things on. The glulam board can continue on the partition wall as a design element?

 

[Kalasgubben]

If you build the partition wall from wardrobes or bookshelves, you can avoid a lot of work. I myself had wardrobes as a partition wall 25 years ago in a small apartment. One of them had neither interior nor back panel and was the "hidden" entrance that actually made my friends laugh. (perhaps it was a small contributing factor to catching the housewife as well )
If you still want a thinner solution without affecting the wall, set a rail on the floor and ceiling, double (or triple, or whatever fits) standing rail screwed together firmly and clad with OSB/plywood on the bed side to withstand leaning against the wall. Not that the old wall is so great as a backrest anyway. So, screw up a nice laminated panel on the wall and attach the nearest rail to this? With a nice bevel on the top side, you can have a French cleat to hang things on. The laminated panel can continue on the partition wall as a design element?

Aa, the initial idea was to buy ready-made wardrobes and shelves. But I'm not sure if it's possible. The ceiling height is 2.30 right outside the sloped ceiling where the sleeping nook is planned to start. I've tried to draw a nice picture. The blue and light blue are rails. The yellow lines are shelves. Shading in black is the wall. In the left wall, the plan is to build a nightstand behind the bookshelf.

So, the plan is to try to build a small bookshelf over the bed and one to the left. To the right of the bed, the plan is a wardrobe.

 

[kniv]

Was at Krauta. They said universal plug with wood screw. Since Molly requires that you hit the plug exactly. But also that Molly works well. It's just more complicated.

Molly plug has machine thread, so yes, the screw must be threaded into the plug. Just pre-drill in the right place and the problem is solved! But I don't really understand the reasoning, a wood screw also needs to go into the plug, even if you have a few mm to play with, but that's not much! If you can't manage that, you probably shouldn't be doing it.

 

[Kalasgubben]

Molly plug has machine threads, so yes, the screw must be threaded into the plug. Just pre-drill in the right spot and the problem is solved! But I don't quite understand the reasoning, a wood screw also has to go into the plug, even if you have a few mm to play with, but that's not much! If you can't manage that, perhaps you shouldn't be doing it.

Hahaha, yeah, I realized when I was thinking about it that it has to hit the hole regardless. He must have meant that the Molly screw must go perfectly into the thread while the screw is fine as long as it hits the hole.

 

[kniv]

Hahaha yeah came up with that while thinking that it must hit the hole regardless. He must have meant that the Molly screw must go in perfectly in the thread while the screw goes right as long as you hit the hole.

Yes, but no. A wood screw you angle in at a low angle that hits the hole on your universal plug will hardly hold very well, if at all, especially not in plaster.

 

[Kalasgubben]

Yes but no. A wood screw that you screw in at a low angle into the hole of your universal plug will hardly attach very well, if at all, especially not in plaster.

How long does a molly bolt need to be in the wall to attach properly?

 

[kniv]

How long does the molly screw have to be in the wall to secure properly?

You buy drywall anchors (Molly) depending on whether you have single or double drywall. The screw is included, and you don't need to think about the length. A tip if you're attaching a stud and the screw is not long enough to expand behind the drywall, is to first just screw in the expander, so the plug contracts. Then unscrew it and attach the stud. That's the advantage of M-thread.

 

[Kalasgubben]

You buy drywall anchors (Molly) depending on whether you have single or double drywall. The screw is included and you don't need to think about the length. A tip if you are mounting a batten and the screw is not long enough to pull and expand behind the drywall, is to first screw in the anchor alone, so the plug expands. Then unscrew it and attach the batten, which is the advantage of M-thread

Yes, I understand that. But it seems there aren't long enough screws. The batten is 45 and I found one that is 57. So the question is if those 12 mm are enough to secure into the plug. Otherwise, you could buy other screws and adjust the length.

 

[kniv]

Yes, I understand that. But there doesn't seem to be sufficiently long screws. The rule is 45 and I found one that is 57. So the question is if the 12 mm is enough to attach to the plug. Otherwise, you could buy other screws and then adjust the length.

Just measure on the expander in the expanded position...

 

[Pappa1986]

Trying to keep up, but what are you going to study?
The bookshelf?
The actual bracket is attached to the floor and ceiling.
Just want to try to understand so I don't misunderstand