Building Materials and Construction Technology
Lotta och Roger: Thanks for the response Found what I wanted on the links. Located in Glumslöv in Skåne ;D Take care regards "Oline"
Stefan: Hello everyone! Wow, it's been a while since I started this thread! I haven't had the chance to research more about Ytong from Poland or Estonia, but regarding external insulation, the downside is that the plaster (if you choose this surface finish) becomes much more fragile than if you plaster directly on the stone. If/when we build an extension, we will opt for some form of heat pump so that
BoByggarn: [citat] Ah, that explains it! If there's something I appreciate, it's when things match each other. I too will go the extra mile to make it look good!
Haagbard: [citat] I did it in the interior wall of the garage, used regular concrete not LECA pebbles! Built the wall up to the upper edge of the door opening plus one stone on each side 30 cm from the opening, formed and reinforced over the door opening to the same height as the stones on each side of the opening, i.e., ~20 cm, and poured concrete from above! It's easier than you might think to screw the
AndersD: V-phase laying and standing alternately looks nice, just make sure to turn the tongue and groove correctly, my paneling is from 1912 and in perfect condition. Naturally assumes Falu red paint.
TN: Screw the floor as I have seen examples of how gaps can form on floating floors when you place heavy bookshelves, etc. on them.
tiggre: otherwise, you can prime the floor 3 times, reinforce with "chicken wire," and then level directly with self-leveling compound... did it in a kitchen and hallway in a house built in 45... worked perfectly... you get a flat and perfect surface to lay tiles on... edit fiber-reinforced self-leveling compound that is...
AndersD: Hello I just had the same issue, I guess you have about 15-20 cm beams as joists. Since my floor on the upper level needed proper alignment, I attached 6" joists on either side of the beam, making the c/c measurement about 700. Then I nogged between each longitudinal joint between the floorboards (22 mm). It seems stable and good. Additionally, I will place spaced panels on top to install
JesperS: I would probably supplement the joists to get shorter intervals. Studs and noggings. Alternatively, lay a substantial plank floor, at least 50 mm thick.
JoGi: Of course, plaster if I get to choose! (all days - all year - all life). JoGi
lt: Our architect has suggested U-glass as walls on fairly large surfaces. He claims it is a cheap material often used for industrial buildings due to this reason. Anyone familiar with this material in terms of price, insulation properties, and perhaps any building in the Gothenburg area using this material that one can look at? Regards, LT :)
MathiasS: No, there is no module 9 door that doesn't fit into a 90cm wide opening. It's standard. However, I don't think it hurts to add an extra centimeter, especially in height, so you have a little room to play with. Actual frame dimensions vary slightly between manufacturers (at least that's the case for windows), but you can assume that none are wider than the module measurement allows for air space +
tiggre: used leveling compound at home here to even out... since it was a basement floor, I sneaked and didn't use fiber-reinforced, just the cheapest option (not optiroc but some other sneak brand) (concrete slabs move minimally anyway)... used optiroc fiber-reinforced on the upper floor when I worked on wooden floors (primer and reinforcement before) so I could tile the hallway and kitchen floor...
Bob_the_builder: A guy at work gave me one piece of advice for the construction: "Make sure to put netting under the panel! There's rattling in our walls! It was mice that were rustling around, that is...
BoByggarn: Beijer also has its catalog online. http://www.beijerbygg.se/katalog2003/
Cocacola74: Hello, I have a large house, approximately 17 meters in building area and two floors, but unfortunately, the house is poorly maintained and the facade is quite bad, therefore large parts need to be completely replaced (an estimated 10% of the facade will fall off when tapping). The facade is plaster and is approximately 30-40mm thick, with timber underneath. What does it cost to have such a
TN: "But "4. 1x13 mm Gypsum board with staggered seams"??" :-[ not always good with copy & paste, forget all the other stuff.... should only be 1x13mm gypsum board......
PA: I've seen it and similar at trade shows. I have a neighbor who built with that type of foundation and he's satisfied. I can mention that he is a carpenter by profession. I was offered to have my foundation done in this way but declined after hearing various horror stories where the elements had come apart and the concrete had leaked onto the ground, as well as after speaking with a salesperson at
KarlXII: Oops, I just noticed that you didn't want to cast :) My solution described above assumes that you cast the joist hangers into the pillars. As Bob describes, there are pre-cast pillars available for purchase - but it's hell to dig for them and adjust them to the correct height. And I wouldn't just place a part of the house on something like leca blocks on the ground....:-/
Eld: The quality of concrete varies enormously, so it is hardly possible to say anything generally. During the war, there was a shortage (rationing?) of cement, so often they skimped on the cement with alarming concrete quality as a result. However, it cannot be said that this was generally the case. Furthermore, mixing was often/(always?) done manually, resulting in varying quality. I have a house
marge: We have talked with both Siljan and Dala Floda Golv, and according to both manufacturers, you should screw down each plank if you have underfloor heating - absolutely do not glue! By screwing, each board moves individually, rather than entire sections of the floor moving, which could create centimeter-wide gaps. We have laid Siljan's pine flooring 25x158 mm, treated with lye, oil, and wax. We
Lilla_vargen: In the knot holes I've heard that one should paint on Shellac before regular painting/varnishing, so that the knot holes don't release resin that turns into yellow stains. As I understand it, this applies to all types of wood, even door frames made of pine.
MathiasS: I actually don't think you can build new constructions with this material anymore. Regarding landfill (there's some old thread about this), there are three stations in Stockholm (Värmdö, Gladö + one more) where you can drop off asbestos cement. It costs about 800SEK per ton there. Additionally, there is a recycling center in Fittja where you can drop off asbestos cement for free (this seems to
peterpop: We have slate at the restaurant, and last winter the Steam Cleaning Car was there and cleaned plus polished the floor so that dirt would have a hard time penetrating the tiles. Try checking their website. www.angtvattbilen.se Peter
Fasting65: After some time searching, I found www.diedenporten.se. Let's see what price range they are in.
Fasting65: The plasterboard is attached to metal studs, usually purchased from Lindab (www.lindab.se). The board should NOT be placed directly against the floor but one or a couple of centimeters above the floor...