Building Materials and Construction Technology
Midas: I don't think quality makes any difference. The only thing that concerns the quality of a tile is probably that the surface layer between different tiles looks the same? As mentioned, we installed tiles in our basement about 4 years ago and haven't had any problems yet.
Sweli: We are going to have a concrete house, but on the upper floor, the dormers are made of wood. We have ordered from the house manufacturer to deliver the dormers with "Masterfasad," a mineral board that can be plastered directly on. Then we found a paint that can be mixed with a kind of sand in different coarseness, which we plan to use to give the same appearance as we have on the real plastered
cattis: weaving + paint + work becomes quite expensive for a temporary solution... Instead, put up cheap "ugly wallpapers". There are actually a lot of nice wallpapers for a cheap price, and if you're lucky, maybe some rooms will be fine... Check out sales and places like obs rusta bauhaus, there are plenty of wallpapers for under 100kr/roll. I've found second-grade weave for 19kr per sqm. A roll of
General_Failure: The building material known for emitting radon is lightweight concrete containing alum shale - also known as blåbetong. I seem to recall that building materials that emit radon were banned around 1970. If the facade brick emits radon, I believe it is a very small part of it that enters the house. In any case, you should always perform a radon measurement in your house. There is also a risk that
Sweli: What can be said that is derogatory about byggahus.se? IT'S THE BEST SITE ON THE INTERNET!!!! We have learned a lot of useful things that we hadn't thought of and got great advice from both the experts and the users. Is there anything negative to say about it???
KarlXII: It feels like a lightning rod could be a good idea... Is there anyone here who knows a retailer and maybe got a price? It doesn't seem to be available everywhere...
Strisak: I don't have much experience in building stalls and the like. However, I have seen how horses kick inside the stall, doesn't it seem like the lecan itself is a bit weak for this? I mean, it only takes a small blow with something hard for some leca to come loose. Considering these kicks, and with shod hooves, I don't think it will hold up for long. It won't look nice after a while anyway. Better
Sweli: Found this link for you General Failure who plans to build a root cellar. http://home.swipnet.se/~w-38480/svenke/
IngvarW: They have some kind of frame made of regular planks, I guess you nail there, but I haven't looked closely... :-/ Best regards, iw
General_Failure: [citat] That only applies if you're painting with a paint that seals the boards. With järnvitriol, you're not sealing the board.
Sweli: Concrete wall finished with plaster (you can choose the texture of the plaster). 5cm concrete, 20cm foam insulation, 22mm sparse panel, 13mm gypsum = total 28.5 Cost including VAT 1040/m2 we pay.
cattis: Ha ha Sweli is paid per hour to have coffee with the carpenters and she herself gets paid per hour to sit on the forum (and the rest of us too) what's the difference??
cattis: Oh, that's the only catch you mean?? Awesome, I'm actually going to paint mine...
tomastiger: How is it that you choose them and which sales office have you been in contact with?
Stefan: Hi Tomas! What thickness did you choose for the insulation under your slab? Are you using underfloor heating? I think I read that it should be between 300-500mm. Is this correct? Do you simply lay more layers if you use 100mm blocks? Best regards, Stefan
Sambon: Information for those possibly considering a stuccoed house. The starting point is a normal-sized house with a building area of approximately 100 m2 or exterior dimensions of 8 x 12 m. Total length of exterior walls is 40 linear meters. Prices may of course vary slightly between different house manufacturers, but here is an example based on the above dimensions. Cost for exterior walls: Wooden
C: [citat] Bathroom, toilet, utility room, vestibule. We'll also have tiles in the upstairs toilet. And a small patch in front of the stove.
Ekke: By the way, Stefan Forslund, you are a very peculiar guy. First, you email and call me dozens of times wanting me to help you with a machine contractor. When I do, you don't answer the phone even though this contractor has called you several times?! :o :-/ What are you after??
Sweli: I agree with Ekke and Karl. Bygmax is incredibly cheap for being in Sweden. Upon closer price inspection, Tumstock is not as good as I thought. Still, if you're going to buy a lot, Germany is the best option. I'm thinking more about slightly more exclusive things that are extremely expensive here. There you can find the same for half the price.
Daniel_T: Among others, Hjältevadshus uses such, so they can’t be entirely wrong. The construction with beam-masonite-beam means less risk of thermal bridges and a lower weight compared to solid wooden beams. Disadvantages surely exist as with everything else. One might think that a coarser dimension is needed for the same load, among other things.
BoD: That has been discussed quite thoroughly in "Värme, vatten, ventilation" - "Golvvärme farligt för klinkers?". The bottom line is that the most important thing is that the vapor barrier is airtight.
KarlXII: The U-value is 0.27 according to ekofiber... See http://www.ekofiber.se/Ritningar/Forsak/Vaggar/v1.gif This is more than sufficient for Mälardalen. In normal cases. If you insulate more, there will naturally be less heat demand and consumption; on the other hand, it will be more expensive to build the house.
bamse: A leca wall will be cut open and there I will install a wooden door ;D [citat]
Sweli: H+H Celcon we didn't know existed when we calculated. Ytong was the most expensive after discussions with the Ytong company and other house manufacturers who built with Ytong. "The partner" who replied is mine ;D
Stefan: Hi Astia! See also previous posts. There are some discussions about concrete/lightweight concrete and leca. Kind regards, Stefan ;)