Building Materials and Construction Technology
Linska: There is a home feature in the November issue-03 of Hus&Hem about this exact house!! Hurry, hurry to the store, and you'll probably manage to purchase a copy! Best regards/ Malin
NikS: I just ordered an air exhaust hood for my roof, Nortegel, it costs about 1600 including VAT. My tinsmith costs 300+VAT/hour, which gives him just over 4 hours to manufacture and install a hood including materials. I don't think it will be cheaper if the "plåtis" does it, I will install the finished hood myself. The tinsmith himself has said that it takes about 2 hours to fix a drain ventilation
Christer: Anyone with experience or knowledge about Poroton stone? A very common building material in countries like Germany, but almost unknown in Sweden. There is information available online, such as on www.poroton.org But my school-level German isn't quite enough. And even using Google Translate leaves too many gaps. U-value? Comparison with Leca and lightweight concrete? :)
Lycke: To Jureit: I will have them on a minimal surface over the sink in our summer house that will soon be built. It's not about many square meters! I thought the surrounding tiles would be similar (square and cream-colored) with some frog tiles here and there. Not like a border and definitely not everywhere. But now that I like the lizards more, a problem arises: those tiles are rectangular and it
frasse: Took a closer look at a variant that we will probably choose, it actually seems to be screen-printed. Can only be seen when looking very closely, and that probably doesn't happen very often. Does it really matter?
joa_bj: This topic has been moved to [link=http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=VVS;action=display;num=1069076267;start=0]Heating, water, ventilation[/link] by Marlene Eskilsson.
frasse: 45 insulation in a 70 wall is a fairly common solution, it provides some space for electrical and water installations without complicating things. Karlsson can also deliver with insulation, just let them know. Don't forget to check how the interjoists are insulated, this is just as important as good insulation in interior walls regarding sound. Many suppliers don't include insulation at all in
freedoman: Hi We have decided to build a house with lightweight concrete. Currently out searching for suppliers selling prefabricated wall elements. We have been in contact with Finjabetong (concrete + foam), but there are certainly more suppliers out there. If anyone knows of more suppliers and roughly what price they charge per sqm, please feel free to post a comment here! All comments are invaluable to
Immobil: Contact a metalworker and he will bend a cap flashing exactly as you want it.
BAS: Hello. Pass by a paint shop. Make sure to talk to someone who has worked there for a long time (so don't go in on the weekend when regular staff might be off). Are you building new? In that case, it's easy. If it's a second-hand house, bring a piece of the facade paint as a sample.
Henke: >In my case, Beijer bygg turned out to be the cheapest. Oh, really. If you go by the list price, they are usually the most expensive. Apparently, it's worth checking the prices carefully.
IngvarW: Hello, a regular piece of metal sheet that is "bent" to be window sill or similar costs about 40 SEK/meter, I believe. We have sheet metal, chimney, various ridge tiles, and 40 windows with sheet metal around them, i.e., the windows are completely surrounded with sheet metal since we don’t have any casings. That job costs about 85000. Best regards, iw
JoGi: [citat] ...and should be available at all reputable paint dealers (if they have Nordsjö, that is). JoGi
Mangelito: I have now sanded and treated one of three rooms. The lye cost 100kr/L. It took 4 liters for 20sqm. The other rooms are larger, and I wonder what is reasonable to pay for lye. Last time, I bought it in connection with renting a sander, so it probably wasn’t at the cheapest place. You have to save in all areas...if possible...and not affect the result...
AndersG: Thank you. I will check them out. Slite is quite near (as the crow flies) ;)
Strisak: There may be flex in the floor even though you have 22mm particleboard + 6mm gypsum. Check how the floor framing is done and reinforce if necessary.
Cujo: copied and pasted a bit: QUESTIONS & ANSWERS BUILDING MATERIALS QUESTION: I have been offered a municipal plot and will build a single-story house. One of the questions is whether we should build with Ytong or wood. What are the 5-10 most important advantages and disadvantages of each material choice? ANSWER: Exterior wall frames along with roof construction made of wood, prefabricated in a
Fasting65: Of course, you can attach the panel directly onto the masonite if you want - You should check where the existing studs are located. The arguments for installing battens first are that you can lay new vp pipes for various electrical installations in the air gap you get if you install the battens first. If you have a very uneven wall in some places, it might be an advantage to first install
TLovskog: Hello, I think choosing to build with stone is a good choice. Other suppliers include H+H Celcon (www.hhcelcon.se), and I also think they have a slightly more developed aerated concrete program. I added a bit about our building in the wood vs stone thread. It took 9 days to build 9 walls in one-story for a mason with 40 years of experience and a helper (me). I mostly did the cutting of blocks,
jonas4: Hello! I have an exposed brick wall that is about 60-70 cm wide and maybe 2.5 meters high. I believe it's cement mortar that was plastered over the brick earlier. About a 2 cm thick layer. Now I'm wondering what is the easiest and best way if I want to cover the brick again. Drywall? Cement mortar? Or another type of mortar? If mortar is the best option, do I need to create some form or perhaps
Naimare: Hi, I spoke with Icopal and they were of the same opinion - using a wooden batten in the ceiling should not be a problem. Anders
KarlXII: Oh yes. That will be steady and nice.
Bob_the_builder: Surface gypsum, renovation gypsum, dear (?) child has many names.
MathiasS: Of course you should have two doors. How often do you want to open the WHOLE garage at the same time? That's never happened. Additionally, you will soon have one half of the garage full of stuff, and those things will fall out every time you open your giant door. It should be two doors. From 10kSEk per door, you can get a door I believe, but a better price estimate is probably around 20kSEk.
Lilla_vargen: Made a simple drawing ourselves. Then a detailed material specification for everything: wood, windows and doors, roofing, insulation, downpipes, nails, etc. This was sent out to all lumberyards in the area (Blekinge) to get a quote. We bought from the cheapest. The foundation was cast at the same time as the house's foundation and was included in the package price for this. Then we built it
ok: One meshes to address the stresses that arise from the plaster moving relative to the substrate, for example, due to shrinkage or temperature.
TN: Get a mason's hammer for the knocking and cover everything because it creates terrible dust.