Building Materials and Construction Technology
Stratovarius: Thank you for all the help looking forward to the renovation =)
charlie7117: Hi, Does anyone know what Älvsbyhus charges for all the materials needed for the upper floor, and what is included in that price? Does anyone also know what it costs for a wood-burning stove through them? Lotta ???
Sweli: On the domes of our house, we have ordered from the supplier MASTERFACADE. It is a panel that can be plastered directly on or painted with plaster paint. It is made of a concrete mix, heavy and hard as concrete. We will plaster or paint it ourselves in the summer ;D You can see what they look like on our website.
dadid: Hello. Take a look at Kauna.com Best regards, Dadid
glader: The facade timber itself has a sample price here in Gothenburg: 102 SEK per square meter, including VAT. Those were primed boards from Smålandsvirke. Unfortunately, I don't have the price for the rest, but there were others who did =). I don't know where you live, but it's always fun to compare prices from different construction companies. Norrlandsvirke from Kalix, I also have a price for:
Stratovarius: ok I will need it for a construction job talked to the person he just said it's a light wood untreated! Any tips? 16-18 mm would be perfect /micke
Benno: Byggmax has been reasonably cheap on VP-rör and boxes around a tenner each for both, and it's the same brand that others charge 50% more for. Otherwise, I don't like to compromise on quality when it comes to electricity. The best is if you know someone with a discount at an electrical wholesaler. Then you don't have to worry about getting bad stuff, and there is much more to choose from compared
Bozz50: I used Clas Ohlson's (have you heard that one before? ;)) brackets when I mounted my super cool hallway chair on the wall. However, their brackets are ungalvanized, or at least shiny, which might not be suitable for the satellite dish...
einpajo: Ok, with all due respect for your choice General Failure, I will probably go with the age-resistant one. Thanks for your opinions.
gaia: If any formaldehyde is left after 15 years, it will stay where it is for the next 15 years as well…. I guess. gaia
joen1: A correction of the VAT only The VAT will increase to 22% upon entry into the EU. Many companies have already raised it. I was there last Christmas, so I know the situation! Regards, Jörgen
frasse: It's Gyproc and they're called GN9, I'll check with the house supplier if he has a little more info.
mammamys: We had a break-in at the start of our construction >:( >:( >:( They stole tools and machines from the craftsmen but "our" items hadn't arrived, it wasn't worthwhile for the builders to use their insurance because the deductible is so high, but if it had been our appliances, our insurance would have covered it!! Best regards, Maria
Torparkungen: I must check the shipping cost for my part. Not to be forgotten. But it's important to see the whole thing positively = it should be possible to get it below 21.25 :-X
Torparkungen: Hello! I listen and observe... I will have 45x95 in my walls myself. All on the ground floor, to get as solid a feel as possible without overdoing it. By the way, I've also heard that 45x95 studs at c-c 600 should be suitable for load-bearing interior walls in a 2-story house. I will also nail raw cladding inside the plasterboard on certain walls. I can hardly wait!
Benno: I suggested it to Pricerunner a couple of years ago, but they didn't seem interested. Probably too much work... It should be able to lower the price on certain standard goods, but much cannot be compared. Take, for example, timber at Byggmax, which can result in more waste and requires greater efforts in the form of knot varnishing and filling (speaking from experience). Different brands and
Fasting65: Lisa - you have received a message... We have scaffolding lying around...
BAS: It's probably quite irrelevant whether you have 95 or 120 in the walls. The major heat leak is called the garage door. I have installed one that is "heavily insulated" only 40 mm. It occupies 9.5 m[sup]2[/sup] and also leaks a little at the edges and at the bottom (overhead door) even though I have adjusted it according to all the rules. As for the roof, insulate more than in the walls.
tiggre: install self-adhesive foil ceiling panels in all rooms (currently there are old tretex-like tiles)... it's convenient to work with if you have a nail gun and air compressor... 120x60 chipboard panels that are foil-covered, various brands are available, but I think they are all more or less the same (except if it's supposed to be "limed oak" or such patterns)...
dadid: [citat] Thanks for a great post. I have chosen 145 studs in the walls for structural integrity, not insulation thickness. This is because I don't have more than the outer gypsum to stabilize the construction. But you're probably right; I'll calculate dropping down a size. I reduced the interior walls to 70 yesterday :-) The reason for the previous thickness was that I wanted to hide some posts
Rena: Hello! I am in the process of extending a cabin a few square meters to accommodate a shower cabin. It's an old "hall" that has paved bricks as the floor. This floor needs to be slightly extended, and my question is whether I should break away the entire brick floor and frame a new floor or if I can simply build a framework from the brick floor. The problem as I see it is not getting the floors
roblar: How is the quality of Byggmax insulation? Is the insulating ability as good as the more well-known brands, such as Paroc and Isover?
David: So, we are quite close to the end of our custom-built house. (Except for the garage, which I am still avoiding thinking about). What we have left is to paint doors and put up baseboards and moldings. After a quick look at Bygg-Ole, we were shocked. 50 bucks per meter for oak baseboards! After some consideration, I'm wondering if it wouldn't work to put up simple planed oak strips as baseboards? I
NikS: Another question for you BuilderBob, why gypsum plaster? We also live in a stone house with plastered interior walls, but with regular lime cement on the walls. All our interior walls are lecawalls. The outer walls are also built with leca, a load-bearing interior wall with 15cm blocks, then 12cm polystyrene and a façade with 9cm leca. We are very satisfied with the result, just need to get it
Sweli: We have used Masterfacade panels to clad the dormers. The idea is to be able to plaster directly on them. In the spring, we will test on pieces we have left to see what is easiest to do and what lasts. In the pictures on the website, you can see what they look like.