Building Materials and Construction Technology
zankan: [citat] It's insanely fun to be the best :-) Whether you do it is another matter
styrman1: It is the fitting itself that is adjustable, the one you cast in concrete. The strength is sufficient. The only downside is probably the price. 3-4 times as expensive.
betula: If you mean "Western redcedar," it comes from the west coast of America, from Alaska to California. An appreciated coniferous tree (thuja) that is very suitable for outdoor use, it has good weather resistance. Easy to nail and weathers like teak if left untreated. However, galvanized nails rust, so use stainless steel. The downside is that the timber is expensive compared to domestic wood types
Brugd: I have used Biltema's on the terrace, some have rusted in the torx slot, but otherwise nothing.
spocks_beard: Remove the crap. No fun nailing when putting up paneling.
phulden: oops I found a lot of information on the manufacturer's website www.isola.se P
svemark: Epoxy maybe? Plastic that hardens quickly and becomes extremely hard. / Mårten.
Tuppen_1: I have countersunk the nails slightly so I could apply a thicker layer of putty + reinforced with some screws where I felt it was needed. However, screw first so you see how far out the nails come if the substrate moves slightly. For me, this resulted in a good outcome and now 2-3 years later the heads are still invisible. I found it easier to do this than to remove all and screw again.
slaskman: Does anyone have information on roof tile prices? Is it cheaper with glazed tiles in Germany, Holland, or Denmark? That's where they are manufactured nowadays, right?
Norre: If the plaster sits properly, it can probably support a half-tiled wall. I did it that way in my basement. Otherwise, you might have to tidy it up by replastering the wall.
David: We have particle boards everywhere except in areas where we plan to hang a lot or that require extra stability, such as the kitchen, laundry room, etc. There we have OSB. For safety's sake, we have also reinforced a little extra behind the OSB where we will have overhead cabinets, etc. Another reason to put up some form of board behind the drywall is that the work with drywall and spackling goes
Challe: I think there is a time aspect for companies working with this. I heard about a firm that took advantage of this by "rigging" the entire house before tearing it down. They put loops and wire between the slabs and then demolished everything in less than an hour. This way, they avoided all rigorous requirements since it was a short-term job. It could be an alternative. I don't remember what the
sater: I think overall Byggmax has good quality on their products, the gypsum I bought was "La Farge" and I thought it was of good quality. However, I noticed that the masonite they had in stock now was of poor quality, porous and lacked that hard surface the previous delivery had. Additionally, it was warped "chev" (spelling), so it can vary between different deliveries. I can't agree that their lumber
Challe: They are ugly with their different price lists. I also don't believe they're dealing 60% below consumer price. The best thing is to have something to "threaten" with. I've started checking now and the contact I have at the local building supply store I thought was really good. Got a price on single-lap roof tiles from Vittinge. 10.67 SEK/piece + VAT. Called Beijer and got a lower price of 10.50
Bokholmen: Nail gun ;) then the nails are not visible and it's convenient!
sveag: I have also reconsidered and will lay the wood overlay and nail them together. But in any case, I need carriage bolts to attach the posts.
dave001: Currently building a deck that rests on three beams/joists 45x195. On top of and perpendicular to the beams will be floor joists 45x145 (cc60) and finally decking 28x120 on top of the floor joists. Two of the beams are in post shoes in footings, but the last beam will be attached to the house wall, which is made of aerated concrete. Does anyone have tips on a good fastening method for a 195x45
Christian84: At what relative humidity can you lay vinyl flooring on a concrete floor? And how long does it take before the relative humidity is reached? What are the different levels of "readiness" for concrete?
Challe: Create a drawing and send it to Italy. It's the cheapest but also the trickiest. At least half the price. If you know someone who speaks Italian, it's a piece of cake. Challe
styrman1: 60:- is pretty ok if it includes VAT. Recently there was a price increase from benders that not all retailers have noticed yet.
Fasting65: I bought a hundred-meter roll plus two tubes of silicone for five hundred from the glass master. They have top-notch stuff. The building supply stores just have junk lists.
MathiasS: you know that you don't need to go to the point of purchase? There are those who do nothing but trade with pallets.
Fasting65: Okay. I'm not too hajj on tunnputser. Thanks for the clarification.
JRG: Currently finishing the upstairs of our 1½ story house. Now started looking at moldings and have a question about whether there are any stylish moldings that you put on the wall against the support beams and where the ceiling starts. The roof has a 35-degree slope. Anyone have an idea, preferably with pictures.
furvilla: Check with a mechanical workshop or search online. I shop from Stena Metall, but they might not be near you. Rog
spisen: We will replace the facade metal on the upper floor (around 90 m2) with horizontal paneling. We will also need additional insulation. 1) What is a reasonable material cost per m2 for this? Approximate price for paneling + insulation. 2) What can be estimated for labor cost? We have received an offer (labor only) that includes dismantling the metal, additional insulation, and panel installation =
jojjeblom: Hi, I wasn't planning on needing to paint. Tryckimpat is what I was thinking of using, then it will be oil once a year./jojje