Building Materials and Construction Technology
chris47: I suggest binärolja. It saturates the wood with oil and then forms a lacquer-like surface that is a bit elastic but completely dry. I have used this on both a pine dining table and a teak patio table. Looks great and durable. PS it darkens the wood with each application. Jotun binärolja is available in both matte and clear. If you want a matte surface, you should oil with clear and then finish
chris47: Kirai decking is a reddish-brown dense wood without knots and relatively inexpensive. Interwood in Götet. /CC
Immobil: 8) Here you go: http://www.jackon.no/brosjyrer/Siroc%20Grundelement%20farger%2004.pdf :D More info can be found here: http://www.jackon.se/brosyjrer.htm ;)
Fred: There is a diffusion-open material/plastic that can be used as underlayment instead of solid wood decking and tar paper named Monarperm 900. It is said to be strong, and you can advantageously insulate without an air gap because it is open "on one side." Information can be found on the manufacturer's website www.icopal.se -> Products -> Roofs -> Underlayment. When I Googled, I didn't find
Ms_IT-Nisse: There are gypsum boards that you can put in the joint between the drywall panels. In this way, you at least lock the gypsum against each other. (I think you already did that with the glue... ;)) But I don't know if PL 600 is good enough, ??? PL400 I know works on gypsum.
dymlingen: Inger P: No, of course you don't have sill paper under the foundation wall at a crawl space but on top of, between the concrete and the sill, which the joist and the wall sit on. The experts say there should be a moisture barrier, e.g., foundation paper YEP 2500, which I will follow, but I still wonder how important it is. In some way, they believe that the foundation wall would be more humid
snart_klar: Thank you friends. Now it's finished. It ended up being 22 mm deep recesses in the beam and a standing 22x95 in these.... Still wondering how important it really is. Has anyone tried splicing plasterboard with just cc60 support behind the joints (i.e., without noggings or any other longitudinal board/beam?)
snart_klar: For an extension of about 20 sqm, the price was roughly the same from Beijer, K-Rauta, and Byggmax. We have shopped where it suited best at the time. One day everything in Byggmax's section was crooked, while another day it was impossible to get a single board other than 4.20 at K-Rauta. I think it's like six of one, half a dozen of the other. However, it's always good to check the dimensions of
snuttjulle: The reason for edge-gluing is precisely to prevent warping. I know they used to split wide planks, then rotated them 90 degrees and glued them together in woodwork class many years ago for this very reason. But it's certainly possible to keep them together with strong braces underneath as well. Perhaps even steel to reduce the dimension. Keep in mind that pine is not a hard wood species, so it
Robert_Maria: Thank you for the tip. We have special requests, so I will call to see if they/he can deliver according to our requests. Thank you once again for a quick response.
spikifoten: Hmm, ok. I'll probably try with 600 then. I'm going to lay tiles in the laundry room but in the middle of the room, there's a hatch with pipe connections. The hatch is at the same level as the floor and I need to glue some 'lister' there to have a natural edge against the tiles.
ByggaNytt: [citat] "My" wooden sill is direct orders from the engineer. A funny story is also when I contacted Leca (Maxit) about full joint/string masonry of my U-blocks as the top course. When I described my construction, there was silence on the phone for a moment, then I heard: "The way your foundation is constructed, all should be!"
Don_Tom: [citat] Discuss it with the carpenters beforehand, if possible. Neither you nor they will be happy adjusting this after moving in.
adolfson: We use a construction adhesive at work called PL 400. It adheres to most surfaces.
Jesca_j: Mixing wall thickness is not so unusual. If you need to sala on for the doors, it's not a big concern.
Gusen: When I built my ridge roof with an air gap, I attached hardboard on top of the rafters, then nailed about 3 cm battens on top of the hardboard, and then the roof decking. That means the insulation is against the hardboard on the inside, and the air gap is between the hardboard and the roof decking. A simple and quick solution in my opinion, with minimal cutting in the hardboard. This assumes, of
hempularen: If you look at the Gyproc and Norgips websites, there are quite detailed instructions about dimensions for supporting plasterboard ceilings. The two companies come to slightly different dimensioning conclusions, so it is probably not critical. But the summary is that one should have battens (sparse panel) at cc40 or similar under the main beams. Then there are dimensioning tables for the battens
saidlasf: Hello I won't stick my neck out too much, but: I have built a basement where the exterior walls are 35 cm thick and the blocks weigh Approx. 30 kg each. The guy at the building supply store calculated that just the exterior walls weigh Approx. 27 tons. Then come the interior walls with their (puny) 19 blocks. No lifting help here. Well, actually, when the beams (weighing around 80 kg each) were
OddJ: ...and make sure that the ceiling and the floor are not connected between the rooms. If they are, it is advisable to cut a gap before building the wall.
David: None I want to stand for here. ;) regards David
Langbein: We have a pool underway that was built in treated wood 30 years ago, like a box in the ground with a liner inside. Now they are going to build on the neighboring property and much more quite close, we and the nearest have clay bottom which goes towards the others. What could happen to the pool :-/ ???
Hässleskog: If you look at the issue from a legal perspective and what payment responsibility you have, this might help you. If you entered into an agreement (written is best, verbal can still work) after the new year, the new Consumer Services Act applies. The burden of proof for what has been agreed between you both lies entirely on the contractor. If it is only a verbal agreement, your word in a potential
danielvestling: Whichever primer you use, it is IMPORTANT that primer/fix/sealant comes from the same supplier. It's worth mentioning this once again. After all, you are working with chemicals and they need to work together. So, you can't just buy the cheapest here and the cheapest there. Keep that in mind //Daniel
Petra_S: Hello We are currently breaking up the floor in the basement to install underfloor heating and furnish two bedrooms. The house is a split-level house from 1943. After starting to break up the floor and chip away the plaster from the internal walls, it's visible that the internal walls, made of brick, have absorbed water. The brick walls are directly on blast stone and rock, and only have a very
OddJ: I would have screwed drywall onto the wood fiber boards. The room would be 2 x 13 mm narrower, but one can probably live with that. No insulation deterioration and less work. Just make sure to have the correct screw length!
Danne_Bobo: Thank you, this sounds reasonable. I got an estimate from one of the inspectors who is a former carpenter - He said something around 200,000 SEK for the job. The house itself has been rated well so to speak, and the price was reasonable before this was discovered, so now I guess I'll have to put pressure on the seller and see if we can haggle :o
Guzzi: [citat] Did they use sandblasting, hydrochloric acid, or a rotating steel brush then? ::)
David: The search function can be a bit tricky. Here is a selection of more or less useful links: http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=byggmatr;action=display;num=1121421499;start= http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=byggmatr;action=display;num=1122814336;start=3#3 http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=byggmatr;action=display;num=1120906960;start=0#0
zaxter: I also have Träullit in the basement. It looks like this when it has been torn down from covering the concrete wall. [bild]