Building Materials and Construction Technology
sater: That's great, I have a K-rauta nearby :)
opelhenke: I have torn up the floor and there is plenty of space to stand and spray, so it's probably a good way. It's just the sill logs left, should one spray the ground and the stones as well, and is a gas mask used for car painting sufficient against the substance? Opelhenke
Niq: I would think it is a porous fiberboard. It was used a lot in the past on log houses as insulation. This board breathes and releases moisture pretty much the same way wood does. Those boards are held together by the wood's own lignin. Nowadays, they are usually impregnated with asphalt and are then called asfaboard. But there are also ones that only have a surface of tar and are then just made of
Totte_S: We didn't bother to find out what was needed but asked for a price per m2 for labor and materials excluding tiles. Just specifying that it should be done in accordance with industry rules for tile installation in wet areas. Most of the craftsmen could provide a reasonable proposal with that basis. They also want to know the size of the tiles to estimate the time required.
zankan: [citat] You nail into the frame and the wall, as well as glue the miter, and if you want, you can also drive a nail from top to bottom into the stand. If the trims are pre-lacquered, 5 nails in the frame and 2-3 in the wall are sufficient. 30 mm nails in the frame and 50 in the wall.
moken: [citat] Hi, don't you want to share an approximate sum? Have emailed tjallden for a quote about 1½ weeks ago, but still haven't received a response :-(
Jesca_j: We didn't have any space left when we were down last time, so we didn't buy fix and fog, but we'll bring it in the next round! There were Swedoor interior doors, but we got doors with the house, so we didn't buy any. I didn't check roof tiles.
Tomaser: In Vällingby, you have Kakelslottet, they have a wide selection at good prices. www.kakelslottet.se
Tomaser: The easiest way is to glue it up.. works just fine, there are fasteners for that, goes faster than nailing.
blofeldt: Browse the forum, use the search function. Generally speaking, Poland is one of the cheapest countries in Europe, if not the cheapest, in terms of price index. Email or call some of the larger department stores and they'll provide you with price information. Stena Line, for example, has links to the largest department stores.
akinna: Hello! We're considering going to Poland to buy building materials. Check out www7.stenaline.se where you can click on "-Sveriges billigaste priser finns i Polen". There are maps of stores, and you can also get some price examples from the stores' campaign leaflets. Good luck!
jojjeblom: www.alloc.se, has pictures. I have installed an Alloc commercial stone in the hallway, turned out very good. You have to put your nose + eye to the floor to see that it is not real. The joints are grooved so they can be felt when you walk on it. But it was quite thick for laminate 11mm, so you may have to adjust the doors at the bottom. / jojje
Olie: The electricians have now installed the wiring in our new build, resulting in quite a few holes in the vapor barrier in the ceiling. The guys have at least started patching up the tears with tape... but with "packing tape" from Biltema! I have just purchased a roll of "age-resistant" and suitable tape that will be handed over to the guys tomorrow. I don't really think it feels professional to use
zankan: [citat] 'those work okay... I am, however, ridiculously fond of classic programs that outperform most when it comes to door/window installation...
pleximaster: I am planning to cast a "floating" slab on a bed of leca balls in a room where I have removed an old slab made on a filled-in torpar foundation (see my skeleton thread in other.). How thick does it need to be and what type of reinforcement do I need? I was thinking of using rot bruk type. Has anyone done something similar? Best regards, plexi
andreasimner: I would have liked to do it...if I had the time. Considering making one last effort before I sign any "work order" and getting a quote from a craftsman who just does the job + surrounding materials, and I buy the doors. Then, for example, I can order from Skånska Byggmaterial (or whatever they were called)
andreasimner: A company will come now to calculate it and provide a quote...we will see what it comes to.
Framerate: Brick is number ONE. It must be the most maintenance-free material of all? But it depends greatly on the house model if it is the most beautiful option. The difference between mossy and cozy can be very subtle. I think so. Check if the brickwork extends up to the gable peaks, otherwise it falls short, in my opinion. The gable peaks are the trickiest part to paint on a wooden house. I have an
kibba: Joints on Norre: PU (polyurethane adhesive) is extremely strong, but must be kept under substantial pressure to prevent expansion. However, when used correctly, it becomes stronger than the wood itself (I know from experience when I've glued incorrectly and tried to retract... ;) ) I never use anything other than PU adhesive these days, and would definitely use it if I were to glue together stair
Fiander: Another option is to wrap the handrail with leather straps.
muppen: do not leave any space if you want to get 3-4 mm later, if you separate them from the start the gap will be bigger. 8)
DragonLady: How far from the wall must a flue coming up from the floor below be? Must this wall be fire-rated or does this only apply behind the stove on the ground floor?
henrik_R: Check out www.chl.chalmers.se/~lind/research/katrin.pdf Got a quote from Besta when I was planning my construction Seems really simple but I still chose loose timber
styrman1: Where in Stockholm? Visit some building stores and request a quote. Are you going to replace both the roofing felt and battens at the same time? Include that in the same quote.
sybrig: Check out www.thulica.com they might have a good solution? You can also call them, they are very helpful! They have different solutions for slopes, 'dry and wet'. Look!
Tomtebo: Does anyone know if there is an impregnated wood board similar to chipboard or plywood that can withstand being underwater?