Panel board for old house with high ceilings

[matsmats]

Are there MDF panel boards (beadboard) for those of us who have an old house with at least 265 cm ceiling height? Or do we have to compensate with large moldings and baseboards?

 

[matsmats]

Is there really no one who knows the answer to this?

 

[jon_h]

So you mean that you want the breast panel higher up than usual? Or should you have paneling to the ceiling? If you check out panelskivan, it comes in two heights, 1200 and 2390 millimeters. You can cut down the longer one or stack several on top of each other.

And otherwise, there is real pärlspont too.

 

[mattiasp]

I have successfully nailed pre-painted (i.e., lightly white-stained) real beadboard. Since you skip the painting step, it actually goes faster than using panel board. A brad nailer is recommended.

 

[matsmats]

So you mean you want the wainscot panel higher up than usual? Or do you want the panel up to the ceiling? If you look at panelskivan it comes in two heights, 1200 and 2390 millimeters. You can cut down the long one or stack several on top of each other.

And otherwise, there's real beadboard too.

I want the panel all the way up to the ceiling and wonder if the panel board is an alternative to using regular beadboard, which requires more work and is likely to crack when the house shifts! Is the panel board the only option, or are there other brands? 2390 is a bit low if you have 2650 in ceiling height. You say you can stack several on top of each other, but how good does that look?? Won't there be an ugly seam in the middle then??

 

[jon_h]

I want paneling all the way up to the ceiling and am wondering if panel boards are an alternative to using regular beadboard, which requires more work and will likely crack when the house moves! Is the panel board the only option or are there other brands? 2390 is a bit low if you have 2650 in ceiling height. You write that you can place several on top of each other, but how nice will that be?? Won't it be an ugly seam in the middle then??

If anything is likely to crack, it's the boards. The regular beadboard can move between each board, how could it crack, do you mean?

And yes, there will be a seam. The idea is probably to cover it with latex before painting, but it will likely show over time anyway.

It says on their website that they can deliver special lengths, call and check if it's possible to get longer pieces, and what it would cost in that case.

 

[matsmats]

I have successfully nailed pre-painted (actually, lightly whitewashed) real beadboard. Since you skip the painting step, it actually goes faster than paneling sheets. Brad nailer recommended.

Glad to hear there are those who have succeeded with real beadboard. The downside is that it takes time for the panel to dry, otherwise it cracks and looks bad. However, you avoid this with an MDF panel sheet. But the time aspect for the painting step is also an important parameter...thanks for that...a brad nailer will definitely be acquired if I decide to go with real beadboard.

 

[matsmats]

If anything is at risk of cracking, it's the boards. The regular tongue and groove can move between each board, in what way could it crack, do you mean?

And yes, there will be a joint. The idea is probably to hide it with latex before painting, but it will likely be visible over time anyway.

It says on their website that they can deliver special lengths, call and check if it's possible to get longer pieces, and what it would cost if so.

If you don't have time (i.e., take the time) to let the panel dry, it will eventually move so that it separates. That's the phenomenon I'm referring to that you avoid with regular tongue and groove!

I also saw on the website that they could deliver different variants, e.g., thicker or wider boards...so it shouldn't be a problem to get longer ones either...the only question is what it might cost...gotta pick up the phone and find out!!

 

[jon_h]

If you don't have time (i.e., don't take the time) to let the panel dry, it will eventually move and separate. That's the phenomenon I'm referring to, which you avoid with regular pärlspont!

You mean you avoid that with the panelskiva, right, not that you avoid it with regular pärlspont?

If you buy pärlspont that is already dried, you won't have that problem. And if you paint before you put up the panel, it won't be noticeable if the panel moves a few millimeters with the changing seasons.

 

[matsmats]

You mean you skip that with the panel board, not that you avoid it with regular beadboard?

If you buy beadboard that has already been dried out, you won't have that problem. And if you paint before installing the panel, it won't show if the panel moves a few millimeters during seasonal changes.

Exactly as you describe! Can you trust that dried-out beadboard is sufficiently dried if you buy it at a regular hardware store, or are there safer alternatives???

 

[jon_h]

Of course, there are different qualities depending on whether you buy at byggmax or more expensive places, but it should be sufficiently dried to be installed directly. Then it will always move, but as I said, I don't see that it matters if it shrinks a little, you paint (or at least prime) before installation.

 

[Saxpy]

Of course, I mean exactly as you describe! Can one trust that dried pärlspont is adequately dried if you buy it at a regular building market, or are there safer alternatives???

I bought specially planed pärlspont that would match in style and thickness with the old one. It's not excessively more expensive and if you shop at the right place, you can be assured that it is properly dried.

If you are in the Stockholm area, get in touch, and I can recommend a small planing mill. Then you can get the right dimensions directly.

 

[matsmats]

I bought specially planed beadboard that would match the style and thickness of the old one. It's not that much more expensive, and if you shop at the right place, you can be sure it's properly dried.

If you're in the Stockholm area, reach out, and I can recommend a small planing mill. Then you can get the right dimensions directly.

Thanks for the tip! I had totally forgotten about the sawmill where I have ordered cladding from... they also sell beadboard and are recommended by the Centrum för byggnadsvård in Gysinge. They have been trustworthy before and should be in this case as well!!

I've now sent a query asking if they sell dried beadboard!!

 

[HenkeBoy]

I have seen the panel board installed in staircases where log walls were the base. Thin framing and then a panel board with approximately 2400mm length, which resulted in a joint approximately between the floors.

It looked very nice the first year. After a winter and spring, by the coming summer, it was not as nice anymore. The joints both lengthwise and sideways had moved. The paint had therefore cracked at each joint.

I don't know if the MDF moved, but the log wall behind is, of course, alive...

In my staircase, therefore, good old-fashioned tongue and groove paneling will be stained once before installation. Then it can move in width as much as it wants. It will take a lot before it shrinks out of the tongue

/Henke

 

[matsmats]

Good tips regarding the impact of the substrate. I have a vertical plank wall and had planned to throw up rotgips before the beadboard to "dampen" and even out the wall!

The plank walls in an old house are rarely close to right angles....the plank walls are also tongue and grooved, which often leads to walls being occasionally concave or convex in both height and length!! Could it be a problem when putting up the beadboard if the wall is convex lengthwise? I mean, can it be tricky to fit the tongue and groove pieces together? In other words: do I have to straighten the walls, or can I put up the beadboard directly? I think the "crookedness" of the house is part of the charm, so aesthetically, I don't care...I'm thinking more about the practical side!! This is also an aspect of whether it "creeps out of the tongue and groove" as HenkBoy writes above...i.e. if the walls are convex, the tongue and groove won't fit together as well as on a straight wall!