Saw off cast drainage pipe - jet coupling new

[v-g]

If it's at the bottom of the pipe, I wouldn't recommend it. If it's on the top, maybe.

If you're unlucky, it won't adhere at all, and if you manage to make it stick, it's difficult enough to determine, as it is anyway.

Also keep in mind that the pipe _can_ be paper-thin, and a repair might just delay the inevitable by a few days at worst.

If it's in a place that is often checked, it's not a big deal, but if it's hidden, then it's really a no-no, and even welding is not a good idea if it can't be inspected.

If you're unsure, consult a plumber. It's really foolish to risk water damage to save a few bucks, and the insurance companies might wag their finger if they find out the cause.

 

[nattugglan11]

If it is at the lower part of the pipe, I would not recommend it. If it is on the top, maybe.

If you are unlucky, it won't stick at all, and if it does, it will hold just enough to make it difficult to judge.

Also, keep in mind that the pipe _can_ be paper-thin, and a repair might just postpone the inevitable by a few days in the worst case.

If it's in a place you often inspect, it's not a major issue, but if it's hidden, then it's really risky; even welding is not great if it can't be inspected.

If you're uncertain, consult a plumber. It's really foolish to risk water damage to save a few thousand, plus insurance companies might shake their fists if they find out the cause.

I have written several emails to my housing association about this, asking who is responsible for the pipe, and I have called the insurance company too. No one can answer me who is responsible for the pipe stub in my kitchen. Absolutely incredible, us with all the laws, but no one knows. My association only replied, "you should have noticed the crack during the kitchen renovation + we see that the crack is old." The crack was impossible to see before; it was when I painted the pipe white that it became visible; before, the pipe was rust-colored and rough. Now, after 2 years, it looks like brown resin has seeped out of the crack, like mustard on a sausage in terms of quantity.

The insurance company says I am covered if it leaks, but as I want to repair the pipe before an accident, I get no support from anyone; I have to wait until it leaks. I also don't want the next owner to demand compensation from me if they experience a leak later.

I would gladly cut off the pipe and put a new one myself, but the catch is that it's hard to reach, requiring me to tear out a kitchen cabinet + counter and faucets in my fairly newly renovated kitchen; maybe it will work if I have the energy. If I can't reach under the cabinet, which will be difficult, at least cutting with a hacksaw. Hmm...

 

[v-g]

Sad that it has to be that way. But if it heals as little as you say, it's no big deal. I would probably rather keep it under observation and inform the association that you don't intend to do anything about it since they can't provide a decision. What I see is the big risk that everything goes awry if you tinker with it yourself. At least a plumber has liability insurance that covers it.

If you can't reach it, I can recommend a type of dremel or multimaster. There is an accessory set at clasohlsson for their cotech (a Chinese copy of a dremel) where they include a lot of thin cutting discs. These provide a very narrow cut (about 1mm) plus with the flex shaft, you can reach most places.

In the event of a sale, you can just explain the situation, and the buyers can take this into account. But if, as you say, it has been there for two years, it could just as easily last another 10. I don't think it would affect the sale price by more than a few thousand either.

If you're really cheeky, you could rig up a funnel with a hose that leads out onto the floor or a suitable spot so you can directly see when it "blows."