I have a corridor with 5 doors, of which 2 are for wet rooms. In the wet rooms, I have applied a significant slope from the corridor side of the door opening (to get the waterproofing up on the threshold), resulting in 2 doors sitting higher than the other 3. When you enter through the front door, you have the corridor directly in front of you, so it will be noticeable. How can I best proceed to minimize the "damage"?

Currently, only the frames of the wet room doors are installed, so there is an opportunity to raise them all to the same height. But then there would be a big gap under each door.

My plan today is to try to get the door casings at the same height by using taller casings on the lower doors. Will this be the best solution? Does anyone have a better tip to offer?

The higher doors are about 4-5cm higher than the others...
 
Perhaps you can trim the bathroom doors so the top edge is even with the others?

Installing high thresholds feels like an irritation—at least I always tend to stub my toes on them now and then—ouch

/K
 
Isn't it common to ensure that the raised bathroom floor is inside the door?
I know many who have bathroom floors that are higher than the floor outside, and then I recall that the door is outside the bathroom floor.
 
Ahlesten said:
Don't you usually make sure that the high bathroom floor is inside the door? I know many who have bathroom floors that are higher than the floor outside, and in that case, I believe the door is outside the bathroom floor.
Shouldn't the bathroom floor be lower so you have something to fold up the waterproof layer below the door... at least that's how I've done it...
 
Hmm, so maybe it is, but not lower, rather that it's a higher threshold.

But I know I've been in a couple of apartments where the floor was higher and the door just went outside.
 
In this case, you should do the bathroom floor as you have, meaning apply the screed to create a slope.
However, do not spread the screed all the way to the door jamb, but level with it.
Then, you install the frame against it, and have a threshold that acts as a riser with rubber, etc.
Option 2:
You apply the screed halfway in and install the frame but notch it out for the screed edge; everything depends on how much is self-leveled.
Threshold on, but at the front, you then build up the threshold with an oak piece so it can rest on it!

Regards,
Carpenter Estwing
 
As mentioned, the simplest option is probably to just trim the bottom of the wet room doors. You should definitely not alter the upper frame measurement, it should normally be 2100 everywhere.

A better but more complicated solution, as already noted, is to have the wet room doors open outwards instead. This way, the higher wet room floor is concealed.
 
zno said:
As mentioned, the simplest option is probably to just trim the bottoms of the wet room doors. You absolutely shouldn't mess with the upper frame measurement, it should normally be 2100 everywhere.

A better but more complicated solution, as already pointed out, is to have the wet room doors open outward instead. This way, the higher wet room floor is concealed.
all bathroom doors should open outwards. otherwise, the door leaf will hit the threshold's raised edge!
I don't think you should cut the door leaf and frame as you will notice the difference immediately, especially if you have a patterned door leaf.
I might agree with a plain door, but in that case, you must cut the door at the top; otherwise, the fitting will end up lower than the others, and it looks a MESS!

you actually have an option 3, but I forgot to write it in my previous post.

in your case, the difference is 3 cm as I understand?
place the frame on the leveling compound, the threshold against the tiles.
the trim on the outside is usually placed in the middle of the frame, so 15 mm on.
but lower it to just a few millimeters, then raise the other lintels by 1 cm, and you've hidden most of it, and it's not noticeable!
hope you understand?
contact me again if not

regards,
snickar estwing
 
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Aha.... You learn as you go. It's just a shame I've already installed the frame and the waterproofing. Some of it could have been hidden by turning the door outwards, but the plaster height is still higher than the threshold, so completely hiding it wouldn't have worked anyway. But as the situation stands now, there's no way to change the door frame. The only chance is to fiddle with the trim as I see it. But maybe that will just look ugly too...?
 
You might be able to tweak the door casings a bit? I.e. have similar casings for all doors but have different widths on the casings?
 
Kurtivan said:
You might want to play around with the door trims a bit? That is, have similar trims for all doors but have different widths on the trim?
It won't look good with different sizes and you can't have different ones if you have something like allmog trims etc.
No, as I said, by moving the head trim up or down, you can at least get pretty close!
best regards
carpenter estwing
 
We will have smooth lister... ?
 
I don't think you should have different sizes... just move the top piece up or down!

Regards,
snickar estwing
 
estwing said:
I don't think you should have different sizes...
just move the top piece up or down!

regards
carpenter estwing
I'm not quite sure what you mean. Should I cut the door (mirror doors) in the wet area to be able to move the top piece down, or do you mean that I should raise the other doors a little extra?
 
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