Hello!
In the attached image, you can now see how I plan to build the front gable of my garage. I will order the roof trusses, so I expect them to be properly dimensioned by the supplier.
All gray-filled sections in the image are 125*125 mm. The upper floor is intended as a simple guesthouse. The door opening is 4085 mm wide.
I am now wondering if 125*125 mm is sufficient for a beam over the door, or if I should look for some form of glulam beam? Perhaps there is some clever formula to calculate this value?
Thank you very much in advance.
Fredrik
In the attached image, you can now see how I plan to build the front gable of my garage. I will order the roof trusses, so I expect them to be properly dimensioned by the supplier.
All gray-filled sections in the image are 125*125 mm. The upper floor is intended as a simple guesthouse. The door opening is 4085 mm wide.
I am now wondering if 125*125 mm is sufficient for a beam over the door, or if I should look for some form of glulam beam? Perhaps there is some clever formula to calculate this value?
Thank you very much in advance.
Fredrik
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I am probably not the right person to answer, but I don't see any measurements, which those who can usually provide good calculations here would need.
Spontaneously, it doesn't look like the beam will take any load. You have the truss whose collar beam will bear the load.
However, there is probably a high risk that the truss will require quite complicated sizing. It seems to be a long span. And if one is to be able to spend time on the floor above, there will be a considerable load on the floor joists.
Spontaneously, it doesn't look like the beam will take any load. You have the truss whose collar beam will bear the load.
However, there is probably a high risk that the truss will require quite complicated sizing. It seems to be a long span. And if one is to be able to spend time on the floor above, there will be a considerable load on the floor joists.
Hello!
Thanks for the post!
Yes, it's weird that the images get so minimized.
The dimensions are clearly visible in the picture I uploaded.
But the width of the garage is 5535mm and the center-to-center measurement between the outer walls is then about 5400mm.
The width of the gate is 4085mm.
The gap between the studs on each side of the gate is 475mm. I thought I'd make sure all four studs in the front are 125*125.
All responses are gratefully received.
Regards,
Fredrik
Thanks for the post!
Yes, it's weird that the images get so minimized.
The dimensions are clearly visible in the picture I uploaded.
But the width of the garage is 5535mm and the center-to-center measurement between the outer walls is then about 5400mm.
The width of the gate is 4085mm.
The gap between the studs on each side of the gate is 475mm. I thought I'd make sure all four studs in the front are 125*125.
All responses are gratefully received.
Regards,
Fredrik
Hello!
Thank you for the response!
It will be wood paneling.
The upper floor is also intended to be walkable.
Is it possible for you to calculate the appropriate dimension using some formula?
Best regards,
Fredrik
Thank you for the response!
It will be wood paneling.
The upper floor is also intended to be walkable.
Is it possible for you to calculate the appropriate dimension using some formula?
Best regards,
Fredrik
A beam over the opening will probably not suffice!fredand44 said:
If you want to be able to get a car in, you must surely have something that supports further into the garage as well.
To be able to calculate the beams, you must determine how close they should be placed.
With the free length you've specified, I can immediately say that with beams at cc 600, you must use glulam or steel beams.
If the trusses are sized to support a floor at the span you are talking about, I don't think you need a beam above the door at all, it would be redundant. The weight of a wooden wall is nothing to worry about.
If you need to build the wall down from the truss to fit the door, you can add a beam, but since it can be screwed to the truss, it doesn't need any special load-bearing capacity.
Now, I am an electronics engineer and not a builder, so the above is just based on some technical general knowledge, not specialized expertise.
(In my build, a truss rests on the beam above the door, and it required a considerable amount of steel that I calculated myself, but that's another story. The build is still standing, though
)
If you need to build the wall down from the truss to fit the door, you can add a beam, but since it can be screwed to the truss, it doesn't need any special load-bearing capacity.
Now, I am an electronics engineer and not a builder, so the above is just based on some technical general knowledge, not specialized expertise.
(In my build, a truss rests on the beam above the door, and it required a considerable amount of steel that I calculated myself, but that's another story. The build is still standing, though
)The beam over the gate is a minor issue, instead, give some thought to the floor!
I don't think you'll get trusses that can withstand the floor on the attic floor, and if they do, they'll be grotesquely expensive (and unnecessarily expensive). My garage has similar dimensions, and I chose trusses with the dimension 220 since it was borderline between that and 195, cc 1200. I have ordered floor joists 75x220, 5300 long. These, together with the trusses, give cc 600 and should support the attic floor, although the sway will probably be greater than what one would tolerate in a residential house.
I don't think you'll get trusses that can withstand the floor on the attic floor, and if they do, they'll be grotesquely expensive (and unnecessarily expensive). My garage has similar dimensions, and I chose trusses with the dimension 220 since it was borderline between that and 195, cc 1200. I have ordered floor joists 75x220, 5300 long. These, together with the trusses, give cc 600 and should support the attic floor, although the sway will probably be greater than what one would tolerate in a residential house.
Hi!
Thanks for all the answers!
You could say that the discussion shifted to also cover roof trusses, which was equally interesting for me!
Great if Injonil can take a look at the following question:
Yes, my idea is to have cc 1200 between the roof trusses, with a floor joist between each truss.
So the cc measurement between all the joists that make up the floor will be cc 600mm.
If I understood you correctly, you have the dimension 75*220 in the floor joists, but what is the dimension of the collar tie on your trusses? *220*x?
It would also be great if you're willing to disclose if you bought your trusses and approximately what they cost?
Do you find that the sway is significant on your attic floor?
A huge thank you to everyone!
Best regards,
Fredrik
Thanks for all the answers!
You could say that the discussion shifted to also cover roof trusses, which was equally interesting for me!
Great if Injonil can take a look at the following question:
Yes, my idea is to have cc 1200 between the roof trusses, with a floor joist between each truss.
So the cc measurement between all the joists that make up the floor will be cc 600mm.
If I understood you correctly, you have the dimension 75*220 in the floor joists, but what is the dimension of the collar tie on your trusses? *220*x?
It would also be great if you're willing to disclose if you bought your trusses and approximately what they cost?
Do you find that the sway is significant on your attic floor?
A huge thank you to everyone!
Best regards,
Fredrik
My roof trusses are 45x220, but they are purchased trusses so I don't know their grading. I also don't know the price since they were included in a kit.
I'm just about to set up the actual framework, so I haven't made it far enough to test the floor's flexibility. But since it's a bit borderline, I will brace at least every other meter and screw-glue the particleboard on top. That will surely be good enough!
I'm just about to set up the actual framework, so I haven't made it far enough to test the floor's flexibility. But since it's a bit borderline, I will brace at least every other meter and screw-glue the particleboard on top. That will surely be good enough!
Built an almost identical house last summer. Width 6m, joists 600 cc, roof trusses 1200 cc, 45-degree angle.
The joists are 45x220, as are the collar beams. HOWEVER, there are supporting walls approximately in the middle, so I agree that you won't manage 6m with 220 mm joists.
The roof trusses and joists in graded timber cost together 11-12000 from the roof truss factory here on Gotland.
The joists are 45x220, as are the collar beams. HOWEVER, there are supporting walls approximately in the middle, so I agree that you won't manage 6m with 220 mm joists.
The roof trusses and joists in graded timber cost together 11-12000 from the roof truss factory here on Gotland.
Sure, regular timber can be tricky. I have exactly 5m between the walls. When you're right on the edge like that, your extra centimeters with 5.4m can make quite a big difference.
If you buy regular roof trusses, you'll get a knee wall. The distance in the attic between the walls will be significantly shorter than on the ground floor, at least 2m shorter. It IS possible to build a solution where you assist by hanging the floor from the trusses using the knee wall's beams. However, it probably requires quite a bit of extra work and the trusses need to be somewhat oversized to handle this additional load.
If you buy regular roof trusses, you'll get a knee wall. The distance in the attic between the walls will be significantly shorter than on the ground floor, at least 2m shorter. It IS possible to build a solution where you assist by hanging the floor from the trusses using the knee wall's beams. However, it probably requires quite a bit of extra work and the trusses need to be somewhat oversized to handle this additional load.