Hey, we don't even use traditional frame screws, instead, we use frame sleeves which I highly recommend over frame screws.
A frame sleeve looks like a "regular" frame screw - just without the actual screw.
You attach it from the backside of the frame before inserting the frame into the opening - then you screw it out against the studs - this way you eliminate the need for all sorts of wedges. Once the sleeves are in place and fastened, you screw a type of wood screw from inside the frame - straight through the sleeve and into the underlying material.
However, these require pre-drilled holes of 14mm. If such holes don't exist (as is the case with many interior doors), we use the other frame screws I linked to instead...
We rarely use wedges!
Oh, by the way - here's a picture of frame sleeves..
http://www.gothes.se/katalogen/goth...TRING=&QUERYDOC=(I001=117145)&XSL=product.xsl
A frame sleeve looks like a "regular" frame screw - just without the actual screw.
You attach it from the backside of the frame before inserting the frame into the opening - then you screw it out against the studs - this way you eliminate the need for all sorts of wedges. Once the sleeves are in place and fastened, you screw a type of wood screw from inside the frame - straight through the sleeve and into the underlying material.
However, these require pre-drilled holes of 14mm. If such holes don't exist (as is the case with many interior doors), we use the other frame screws I linked to instead...
We rarely use wedges!
Oh, by the way - here's a picture of frame sleeves..
http://www.gothes.se/katalogen/goth...TRING=&QUERYDOC=(I001=117145)&XSL=product.xsl
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Yes, we also use the sleeves, but mostly in heavier constructions... like exterior doors, glass sections etc... but then we use regular assembly screws with a small neat head... Torx... I think the head is max 6 mm... to fit in the sleeve... could be more... (Hmm... how "home blind" you get when you're not at work... at Beijer we just go in and grab the right screw directly...
The sleeves are really great by the way, we don't even usually use shims. Just hold the frame and screw out the sleeves until they are plumb... then insert the screw and possibly make fine adjustments.
The sleeves are really great by the way, we don't even usually use shims. Just hold the frame and screw out the sleeves until they are plumb... then insert the screw and possibly make fine adjustments.Should the threshold be screwed together with the frame before placing it in position? It would probably be better not to do so, allowing you to adjust the threshold's height exactly to the floor level (I plan to lay the floor last of all)?
I've tried to calculate the exact height the floor will reach, but it was difficult to find any information on how thick card paper is. Anyone know?
I've tried to calculate the exact height the floor will reach, but it was difficult to find any information on how thick card paper is. Anyone know?
what kind of threshold is it? some need to be assembled beforehand, they are usually a bit higher, with a profile that follows the frame, then there are those with thin ex thresholds that can be laid out afterwards, however, you should screw these with countersunk screws, into the floor. do you have a picture to upload perhaps?
those sleeves are called adjufix.Styx said:
I started a thread about this a while ago here.
hmm an interior frame takes about 5 minutes to set up from the box until the fittings are attached.
assembly: screw together the header of the frame with 3 layers of drywall screws, set the frame upright, take a 14mm drill and drill out the holes (attach the adjufix on the back now if you're using them)
press the frame's hinge side against the stud, put a 600mm level on the top and check if it's level (adjust at the bottom with some masonite or something if needed, place the threshold in between, screw in 70mm frame screws at the top and bottom, take the T-wrench and twist the frame to plumb with roughly the same gap on the sides, now screw in the other 2, take the other side and take the screw at the top and bottom, check plumb again, screw in the other 2, hang the door leaf and adjust the gap between leaf and frame so it looks good, fasten the threshold and fittings.
wedges? hmm why?
only takes unnecessary time, doesn't work on a fixed scale.
the parquet: have gotten a patent on my tool.
welded in 6mm steel, it looks like a T that you use as a support behind.
masonite doesn't work if the drywall ends a bit up since it slides under...
best regards
snickar estwing
estwing: Now, you are used to this.... but for those who are less experienced, it can be a good idea to anchor the frame before they screw it in.
Regarding thresholds, there are both types of thresholds, some you screw in from the side at the bottom of the frame, others you place afterward and should be screwed down into the floor because it bangs so damn much when you walk over them otherwise...
Regarding thresholds, there are both types of thresholds, some you screw in from the side at the bottom of the frame, others you place afterward and should be screwed down into the floor because it bangs so damn much when you walk over them otherwise...