Yes, if you only have right-angle corners and flat roofs, it's quite easy. Add some sloping walls connected to a gable roof and a miter/cut that only has an angle in one direction, and it becomes immediately a bit more challenging.... ;D
A trick is to always cut straight and instead place corner blocks. A bit of a cheat perhaps, but it actually looks nice and is an unconventional solution. There are profiled blocks available to buy at some panel or woodworking stores.
The best advice I can give if you are going to cut moldings is to buy or borrow a good saw like the Dewalt 700 series. Then you can easily trim an additional millimeter off the molding if needed. This is a real pain to do otherwise.
Another tip is to use latex caulk when you've cut too short or at the wrong angle.
/CC
The best advice I can give if you are going to cut moldings is to buy or borrow a good saw like the Dewalt 700 series. Then you can easily trim an additional millimeter off the molding if needed. This is a real pain to do otherwise.
Another tip is to use latex caulk when you've cut too short or at the wrong angle.
/CC
You could also buy pure gold and clad the house with it. It's roughly in the same price range.chris47 said:
Small profiled gold bars, maybe? :chris47 said:How does it solve the corner list problem :
Who the hell knows... No, not quite maybechris47 said:
, but I recall that a two-pack of small pathetic blocks usually costs around 80 kronor or so. It adds up to MANY kronor on a house...In my house, it would be exactly 1200 spänn. I have, of course, completely skipped baseboards on the upper floor (looks more modern). 1200 spänn doesn't even get you a normal engagement ring Otherwise, I agree. 40 kr for a pine block is outrageous!
/CC
Otherwise, I agree. 40 kr for a pine block is outrageous!/CC
Well. In the places I've seen these kinds of blocks, they've been everywhere. That is, in ceiling corners, floor corners, and as skirting blocks at the connection of door casings/floor skirting. In an extreme case, they were also in all the corners against the window casings. Then it costs more than 1200 bucks, I can promise you.
But now that I've bought a small hand router, maybe it's time to produce some of this stuff to avoid wearing down the miter saw's bearings any further...
But now that I've bought a small hand router, maybe it's time to produce some of this stuff to avoid wearing down the miter saw's bearings any further...
All that is cheating! Inner corners should be made so that one side is cut straight. The other side should be coped with a jigsaw so that it fits against the straight-cut side. Such a joint will remain tight even when the moldings have dried and changed shape. Furthermore, the method is forgiving if walls don't always meet at 90 degrees. Check the link:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/print/0,17071,1016651,00.html
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/print/0,17071,1016651,00.html
That link that mathiasp provided doesn't seem to exist anymore. Found a working one:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,1016651,00.html
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,1016651,00.html