Mom has an old house up north that unfortunately has seen better days. A few years ago, the chimney unfortunately collapsed when the snow masses slid off the roof one spring day. It was temporarily rebuilt a few meters to be able to cover the base with sheet metal.
This means, however, that the old wood boiler is unusable and now the electricity costs are becoming problematically high.
I read a bit online about chimney renovation and it seems to be quite a big and expensive project to get a masonry chimney completely sealed. But I also saw that there were alternative solutions with metal liner pipes. Economically, it also seems to be advantageous.
If anyone has any opinions or knowledge about this, they are gratefully received!
This means, however, that the old wood boiler is unusable and now the electricity costs are becoming problematically high.
I read a bit online about chimney renovation and it seems to be quite a big and expensive project to get a masonry chimney completely sealed. But I also saw that there were alternative solutions with metal liner pipes. Economically, it also seems to be advantageous.
If anyone has any opinions or knowledge about this, they are gratefully received!
Member
· Norrbotten
· 3 390 posts
You get the best results if you repair the parts that have collapsed and glide cast/sack drag the rest of the channel. (There is a very good thread on this subject on the forum). Sure, you can install insert pipes, but if you're thinking of the thin-walled flexible insert pipes, you would still need a chimney around them. It's a good method when sealing is difficult to carry out, such as with an angled chimney channel. However, a 4-5 mm continuous steel pipe could work with just a shaft around it.
http://www.soliduct.com/glidgjutning.htm
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/vaerme-allmaent/43297-egen-glidgjutning-godkaend.html
http://www.soliduct.com/glidgjutning.htm
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/vaerme-allmaent/43297-egen-glidgjutning-godkaend.html
I think the chimney is intact up to the roof; it was just the part that protruded above that collapsed. The reason I considered insert pipes was that it seemed cheaper than slide-casting - but maybe I'm wrong?norrbottenstorpet said:You get the best results if you repair the parts that have collapsed and slide-casting/säckadrar the rest of the chimney. (There's a very good thread here on the forum about it).
Sure, you can install an insert pipe, but if you're thinking about the thin-walled flexible insert pipes, you still need to have a chimney around this. It's a good method when sealing is difficult to carry out, for example with an obliquely drawn chimney channel. However, a 4-5 mm full-drawn steel pipe could work with just a shaft around it.
[link]
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Member
· Norrbotten
· 3 390 posts
About the same price if you hire someone for it. If you do it yourself, significantly cheaper with slip casting according to the previously linked thread.
But you still have to build up the chimney to about 1 meter above the ridge (normal guideline), so a mason should come to the site. Therefore, I suggest slip casting. You get a wider channel and continue to heat the chimney so that it dries out when firing.
But you still have to build up the chimney to about 1 meter above the ridge (normal guideline), so a mason should come to the site. Therefore, I suggest slip casting. You get a wider channel and continue to heat the chimney so that it dries out when firing.
After initially hiring for a leaking flue, and having to redo the sealing myself 6 times, I've learned the hard way.... it doesn't have to cost much and I wouldn't choose to insert a pipe as you lose the heat from the flue gases. Dries out the attic, etc. Start by pressure testing the chimney yourself, identify the leaking spots, and clean the flue thoroughly.
Make a hole near where it leaked, only in that flue, put your hand in and feel how it feels, if there is missing mortar in any joints, seal there with c-mortar. Seal the hole again. Repeat at all places you discovered, then you can slip-cast.
If it's only the section on the roof that was redone that isn't completely sealed, tie a rope around a bag with rags, put it in the flue just under the brickwork, if you can reach down, put on dish gloves and then it's just a matter of smearing with mortar in the flue, let it dry and do it again. The cost will be a few bags of c-mortar and your time....
To pressure test a chimney
In some municipalities, chimneys are tested with overpressure, so you must do the same when testing yourself... Buy a pack of smoke pellets from the ventilation shop: http://www.ventilation.nu/xcart/product.php?productid=4627&cat=0&page=1
Find a vacuum cleaner that is reversible, meaning it can blow out, plug in the vacuum cleaner into the stove, seal with some rags, throw two pellets in the stove. When the smoke rises on the roof, put some rags in the flue. Take a flashlight with a LED light, carefully shine around the chimney in the attic, etc., ask mom to flip the switch on the vacuum cleaner twice (for half a second) at each spot you want to check....
Make sure there are no open windows or doors in the room you want to check, the air should be still so you can see the smoke, it's best if the room is a bit dim so the flashlight is visible. You can also sniff around the chimney as the smoke has a pungent smell. It will get very smoky in the boiler room, warn mom...!
I would recommend slip-casting yourself with regular C-mortar and a sack. If you don't have any bends in the flue, it's dead easy!
Make a hole near where it leaked, only in that flue, put your hand in and feel how it feels, if there is missing mortar in any joints, seal there with c-mortar. Seal the hole again. Repeat at all places you discovered, then you can slip-cast.
If it's only the section on the roof that was redone that isn't completely sealed, tie a rope around a bag with rags, put it in the flue just under the brickwork, if you can reach down, put on dish gloves and then it's just a matter of smearing with mortar in the flue, let it dry and do it again. The cost will be a few bags of c-mortar and your time....
To pressure test a chimney
In some municipalities, chimneys are tested with overpressure, so you must do the same when testing yourself... Buy a pack of smoke pellets from the ventilation shop: http://www.ventilation.nu/xcart/product.php?productid=4627&cat=0&page=1
Find a vacuum cleaner that is reversible, meaning it can blow out, plug in the vacuum cleaner into the stove, seal with some rags, throw two pellets in the stove. When the smoke rises on the roof, put some rags in the flue. Take a flashlight with a LED light, carefully shine around the chimney in the attic, etc., ask mom to flip the switch on the vacuum cleaner twice (for half a second) at each spot you want to check....
Make sure there are no open windows or doors in the room you want to check, the air should be still so you can see the smoke, it's best if the room is a bit dim so the flashlight is visible. You can also sniff around the chimney as the smoke has a pungent smell. It will get very smoky in the boiler room, warn mom...!
I would recommend slip-casting yourself with regular C-mortar and a sack. If you don't have any bends in the flue, it's dead easy!
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