Help a new homeowner with two left thumbs! 
When I got home from work today, I discovered that a radiator had come off the wall and was now on the floor. The radiator was attached to two brackets, and it was these brackets that had come loose. Each bracket was attached with two molly bolts, but apparently, this was not sufficient. The radiator was mounted on a drywall that is about 50 cm high (above the wall are balcony windows). I have tapped on the drywall but couldn't feel/hear any studs. I now have a few questions. Is there less "strength" in a small/low drywall, and could this be the reason why molly bolts didn't work? Can anyone recommend an alternative method? Would it work to attach a couple of horizontal studs to the wall (with molly bolts in the drywall) and then attach the radiator/brackets to the studs?
When I got home from work today, I discovered that a radiator had come off the wall and was now on the floor. The radiator was attached to two brackets, and it was these brackets that had come loose. Each bracket was attached with two molly bolts, but apparently, this was not sufficient. The radiator was mounted on a drywall that is about 50 cm high (above the wall are balcony windows). I have tapped on the drywall but couldn't feel/hear any studs. I now have a few questions. Is there less "strength" in a small/low drywall, and could this be the reason why molly bolts didn't work? Can anyone recommend an alternative method? Would it work to attach a couple of horizontal studs to the wall (with molly bolts in the drywall) and then attach the radiator/brackets to the studs?
You don't mention the size of the element, but a molly plug in plaster should handle about 15 kg, so with two plugs, you should manage 30. In other words, it should work. Were they really fully unfolded so you now have two 5cm holes, or what does it look like?
Additionally, it's 2x2 screws. I've hung a couple of my elements like that - works well. But make sure to buy the fattest molly plugs you can find or use alligator plugs, which should be just as good.mats_o said:
Here are a couple of pictures of how it looks:
http://www.ladda-upp.com/bilder/39851/h-C3-A5l-i-v-C3-A4ggen
http://www.ladda-upp.com/bilder/39852/h-C3-A5l-i-v-C3-A4ggen-ii
So it should work with mollyplugs, so I guess I'll have to buy the largest they have, attach them a few centimeters beside the old holes, and then hope for the best, right?
http://www.ladda-upp.com/bilder/39851/h-C3-A5l-i-v-C3-A4ggen
http://www.ladda-upp.com/bilder/39852/h-C3-A5l-i-v-C3-A4ggen-ii
So it should work with mollyplugs, so I guess I'll have to buy the largest they have, attach them a few centimeters beside the old holes, and then hope for the best, right?
Oh my! :O
It looks like the molly plugs were properly expanded so it should have held. How much does the radiator weigh approximately? However, now the panel is weakened, so I'm doubtful it will hold well with molly again. Instead, maybe you can find some studs instead? There should be a stud on one side of the electrical connection, and if you're a bit lucky, there’s a stud 60 cm on either side of it. The radiator brackets won't be perfectly symmetrical then, but at least the radiator won't fall down. If you don’t have a stud finder, you can tap on the wall to hear where the studs are. When you think you've figured it out, you can test drill with a small drill to see if wood shavings come out.
It looks like the molly plugs were properly expanded so it should have held. How much does the radiator weigh approximately? However, now the panel is weakened, so I'm doubtful it will hold well with molly again. Instead, maybe you can find some studs instead? There should be a stud on one side of the electrical connection, and if you're a bit lucky, there’s a stud 60 cm on either side of it. The radiator brackets won't be perfectly symmetrical then, but at least the radiator won't fall down.
If you don’t have a stud finder, you can tap on the wall to hear where the studs are. When you think you've figured it out, you can test drill with a small drill to see if wood shavings come out.
Oh dear!
They haven't used large enough Molly plugs!
However, I would have found a couple of studs to attach the brackets to. Imagine if that happens in the middle of winter and the heater is running at full power, lying on the wooden floor and you're on a ski holiday... well, you get where I'm going with this?!
Best regards,
Thomas
They haven't used large enough Molly plugs!
However, I would have found a couple of studs to attach the brackets to. Imagine if that happens in the middle of winter and the heater is running at full power, lying on the wooden floor and you're on a ski holiday... well, you get where I'm going with this?!
Best regards,
Thomas
Alternatively, you can create a high hole (as you almost have now in the wallpaper), and slide in a "plywood board" behind and center it behind the hole, securing it with wood screws through the plaster on each side. Then attach the brackets through the plaster and into the plywood with wood screws.
A bit more fiddly for sure. Hope you understand what I mean?
Regards,
Thomas
A bit more fiddly for sure. Hope you understand what I mean?
Regards,
Thomas
Now that the plaster is already torn, I would remove the plaster so that you can place studs to screw the radiator into and then put on a new plasterboard.
I have experienced overheating protection that after a "bang" on the floor or a bump on the thermostat, completely stopped working...mats_o said:That's why they have some overheating protection and such in them
Heaters can also get quite warm without triggering them.