It will be a bit tricky with the casings for the windows and doors then...
Possibly let the tretex remain on the wall at the gable of the house. The question is whether there is such a difference in insulation that it's justified?
Possibly let the tretex remain on the wall at the gable of the house. The question is whether there is such a difference in insulation that it's justified?
The Tretex is uneven and there were nine layers of wallpaper on it. Will have to broadly fill almost the entire room. It wouldn't have turned out particularly nice with wallpaper afterwards... I'd rather feel that the room is "fresh" and choose to put up gypsum. Lovely wooden wall behind. Additionally, a door will be sealed. It's not a big expense.
I am replacing all the Tretex myself in our house built in '45 (renovated 2001->onward)
have you ever put a lighter against a Tretex board?
do it and then tell me why you want to keep that material...
then there are more reasons to remove it, it absorbs odors... (smells musty like)...
have you ever put a lighter against a Tretex board?
do it and then tell me why you want to keep that material...
then there are more reasons to remove it, it absorbs odors... (smells musty like)...
Remove all moldings, cut the paint with a sharp knife if there's a lot of paint, and break them loose using several wide wedges that you tap in close to the nails.
Pull the nails out "backwards," i.e., pull with pliers from the pointed end so that you pull the head through the molding, resulting in the least marks/damage. Mark the moldings in a sensible way so that you can find the right place for each piece.
Screw 6 mm renovation plasterboard over the whole area.
Use a 6-7mm planed square strip to extend the old moldings against the frames, easiest by nailing the strip to the frame where the paint line guides. Nail the moldings in the old holes, optionally use glue or latex caulk against the strip. Sand/fill/paint.
Pull the nails out "backwards," i.e., pull with pliers from the pointed end so that you pull the head through the molding, resulting in the least marks/damage. Mark the moldings in a sensible way so that you can find the right place for each piece.
Screw 6 mm renovation plasterboard over the whole area.
Use a 6-7mm planed square strip to extend the old moldings against the frames, easiest by nailing the strip to the frame where the paint line guides. Nail the moldings in the old holes, optionally use glue or latex caulk against the strip. Sand/fill/paint.
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